There are two Chinas, one falling and one rising. At the Shanghai Zoo, both are on display. Pessimists will shake their heads at stultifying bureaucracy. Optimists are reassured by the unquantifiable, relentless energy of the people.
In the end, Shanghai's World Expo was not an international event. It was orchestrated as a domestic power display, in the same vein as the country's 60th anniversary military parade and this fall's Asian Games.
We will know Chinese society is becoming more civil when the economic/human interests of individuals are accepted as not "good" or "bad" or "right" or "wrong" but inextricably linked with sustainable, rational economic growth.