Correspondent Fred de Sam Lazaro provides an illuminating view of the war in Congo and profiles Heal Africa, a pioneering hospital in this besieged region, confronting the immeasurable toll on women from rape, brutal violence, and obstetric fistula.

Joseph had worked hard to secure a meeting with a well-known Congolese women's rights activist, sending numerous emails prior to our trip requesting an appointment. He finally got a response.

Port Goma - Joseph tells me once again to put away my camera-- "You're not allowed to take pictures at the port. It's considered a military zone." ...

I imagine myself at thirteen trying to find my way under the same circumstances. My thoughts aren't pretty. I hold back my tears. We are headed to Mugngua III and Mugunga III will shock me to my core.

Clinic Gesom is a small, depressing, terribly underfunded NGO. Kizito has set up the appointment thinking I should see the smaller, 'less traveled' clinics in the Congo.

Goma is like nothing I've ever seen. It's vibrant, angry, primal, desperate and hopeful -- lawless, but somehow not dangerous.