The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing
Zach Weisberg
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Posted 01.08.2013
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Sports
Read More:
Mavericks,
Greg Long,
Big Wave Surfing,
Peahi,
Big Waves,
Surfing,
Jaws,
Gerard Butler,
Chasing Mavericks,
Sports News
Greg has always struck me as a particularly interesting character in the world of professional surfing, which is a realization that comes about four sentences into any conversation with him.
