Mogul Takeshi Aida, owner of the seven establishments, knows what women want. "A lot of our customers are ladies dissatisfied with relationships," he says. "The hosts entertain them. They listen, and make them feel special."
A few weekends ago I spent some time with my grandparents in New Jersey. As we ate, and then thought about eating, and then decided what we were going to eat next, I thought about my grandparents' 56-year relationship.