These things aren't obvious and generally ran against my initial assumptions. If you're planning a similar trip abroad, these might save you some trouble. If you're not, they might (hopefully) whet the palate.
I'm sitting here on a Philadelphia sidewalk near 30th Street Station waiting for a bus to Manhattan, and this dispatch isn't revelatory but rote -- a collection of the thoughts I imagine we all sort of have in situations like that pressing itself on me. Consider this my disclaimer.
The point is that no self-respecting human being likes to be bullied, whether in Tripoli or in Madison. In America, less urgently than in Libya but urgently enough, it's high time we reclaimed an honest and legitimately popular politics.