So the next time you raise a glass of something very aromatic, very elegant and very expensive, remember to toast the folks driving the tractors. Toast their colleagues who dig dirt and shovel dung. All of that, plus sweat and passion, ended up in your glass.
That's a tragic story, not to be miminized in any way. But one of the main reasons it shocks us is that fruit is not supposed to hurt.
Neither Herb Caen nor Pat Steger are with us anymore, but a recent Sunday event at Wente Vineyards was clearly their kind of scene. It was the launch of Annika Sorenstam's new Chardonnay.