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What Not to Wear: Dictating Islamic Fashion in France

Posted: 09/16/10 04:46 PM ET

Over the summer, I took a brief vacation to Paris. The biggest problem I have when I vacation is leaving my day job behind, and as a religion scholar with particular interest in the place of Islam in modern Europe, my hijab and burqa radars were on high while in France. After all, the debate over the wearing of veils in France is followed throughout the world.

After spending three full days walking the streets of Paris, including a significant part of one day in the neighborhood around the Grand Mosque of Paris, I tallied up the number of burqas I saw. The total was zero. Well, make that one if you include niqabs (similar to burqas, but they leave a slit around the eyes). The evidence is certainly anecdotal, and my visit all too short to get a better picture, but on the surface, it really didn't seem as if France had a major burqa problem.

Most estimates of the number of burqa-wearers in France, approximately 2,000 (if that many) out of five to six million Muslims, reinforce my observations. This is not a common garment worn by Muslim women, and yet the government's campaign against burqas and niqabs in public places, culminating in Tuesday's ban, has been aggressive. This is reminiscent of Switzerland's ban on minarets last November, even though the country has only four minarets, none of which is used for the call to prayer. A trend is emerging in parts of Europe when it comes to banning Islamic symbols that, depending on the region, scarcely exist to begin with.

What is the motivation behind these bans? In the case of France, why ban burqas if they are hardly even worn? The ostensible reason, according to government officials, if not many in the non-Muslim population, is the preservation of republican values, particularly equality of the sexes. The burqa symbolizes the oppression of women. As President Nicolas Sarkozy stated last year, the burqa is "a sign of the subjugation, of the submission, of women."

On one level, I don't deny the sincerity of the French government or many in France to want to safeguard women's rights and women's equality. But the real quandary with this new law and with the overwhelming sentiment against Islamic veils of any kind is that the very attempt to protect women's freedom ultimately results in an infringement upon this freedom.

I do believe that in those instances in which Muslim women are forced to wear a burqa or niqab, the law should protect them and preserve their freedom to choose what to wear and what not to wear. This law does just that, imposing a severe penalty on anyone who coerces a woman to wear a burqa. The guilty party could be fined a maximum of €30,000 and could face up to one year in prison.

But what about those Muslim women (and again, there are not that many) who choose to wear a burqa or niqab? To take one example, Kenza Drider, a French citizen of Moroccan heritage who wears a niqab and insists that it "symbolizes my freedom of expressing my religion." She adds, "The niqab is my dignity, my spirituality and my submission to God." The new law strips her of this freedom. Should she refuse to abide by the law, she would face a smaller fine (up to €150), but it would be a penalty nonetheless. And she might be required to take government-sponsored courses on "republican values" to remedy her behavior. The question that remains, of course, is whether the free exercise of religion can still be included as one of these values.

While many in France may have genuine concerns about equality of the sexes, the burqa ban is really less about preserving women's freedom and more about the underlying discomfort that many in France have over the growth of Islam and the increasing assertion of Muslim identity in the public sphere. The greater the visibility of Islam, the greater the perceived threat to French identity, because the operating assumption is that the two identities cannot be reconciled. One is French first; religious identity must take a back seat. This applies particularly to Islam, though as the 2004 parliamentary ban on religious symbols in public schools revealed, Judaism (no yarmulkes) and Christianity (no prominent crosses) must also make way for French identity. But with Islam, the threat is considered greater because of commonplace essentialist definitions that characterize it as inherently violent, oppressive, and anti-democratic.

France, like much of Western Europe, is suffering from an identity crisis, and the political response increasingly is to restrict the free exercise of religion so as to preserve an identity that is defined against Islam. But banning burqas or attempting to push Islam out of the public sphere will not strengthen French identity. The ban will only reinforce France's reputation as an intolerant country whose leaders appear unwilling and incapable of engaging in sincere dialogue with Muslim citizens or building bridges between a largely secular population and Islam. And it will coerce some 2,000 Muslim women to adopt a behavior and lifestyle that conflicts with their deepest religious convictions.

France's reputation for setting fashion trends has existed for centuries. The new burqa ban is yet one more attempt to shape attitudes on what people should and should not wear. But if endeavors to integrate France's Muslim population are to move forward, the French government needs to spend less time dictating Islamic fashion and more time listening to its Muslims citizens articulate their own understandings of what it means to be loyal both to Islam and to the republic.

 
Over the summer, I took a brief vacation to Paris. The biggest problem I have when I vacation is leaving my day job behind, and as a religion scholar with particular interest in the place of Islam in...
Over the summer, I took a brief vacation to Paris. The biggest problem I have when I vacation is leaving my day job behind, and as a religion scholar with particular interest in the place of Islam in...
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Nicole Wisen
12:03 AM on 09/22/2010
great article.
09:26 PM on 09/19/2010
Anyone who has studied Islam will realise that the more you give in to their demands where their religion is concerned, it's like a victory to them. Muslims have the religious duty to try and convert people to their way of thinking, and eventually impose sharia in those countries if it's possible. France is perfectly right to attempt keeping her cultural heritage. If anyone from an Arab or Muslim country want to settle in France, they are free to practice their religion, but they have to respect the laws of the country. And for me, if you don't like it, nothing prevents you from packing your bags and leaving. Why come to France in the first place if you feel that you are being ostracised ? As for Kenza Drider, she's nothing more than someone looking for attention. It was pretty obvious in the interviews that she gave on TV and in magazines. There have been cases in our hospitals of fanatical muslim men who have attacked male doctors because these same doctors attended to their wives in an emergency. Most of those behaving like that, are extremely ignorant men... and that's what we have to put up with... ignorant fanatics...
Anyway I support Sarkozy right down the line. If he let this continue, there could have been men dressed up in burqas purporting crimes of all sorts...
Vive Sarkozy, vive la France
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Pablo Gonzales
02:56 AM on 09/20/2010
"hey are free to practice their religion, but they have to respect the laws of the country. "
SO how is wearing a Naqib or Hijab a law breaking event or action.... and "If he let this continue, there could have been men dressed up in burqas purporting crimes of all sorts..."
I know right rather then wearing oh say Ski masks, paper bags with holes, jackets and a rag over mouth please dont try to hide your bigotry racism and hate with this flag waving patriotism BS
overcat
My micro-bio is so full, it's bursting at the seam
10:47 PM on 09/20/2010
There have been several incidents across Europe of criminals in burquas committing robberies in the past few years. Look it up. Muslims are not a race, so your "racism" characterization is just pedantic name-calling. Opposing religious fundamentalism and official recognition/accommodation of it is not "...bigotry racism and hate with this flag waving patriotism BS ", it's opposing the assertions of religious fundamentalism in public life. In the US, it's evangelical Christians who are constantly trying to push their theocratic fantasies in public life. In France it is Islamist fundamentalists who are constantly asserting the supremacy of their religion in public life. If it was Sikhs, buddhists or whomever in France constantly asserting the supremacy of their religion over civil laws they'd be facing a similar push back. France is secular. People are free to practice their religion as they see fit (burquas aren't "religious", they're a cultural custom) as long as that practice is within the bounds of French civil law.
11:47 AM on 09/19/2010
Your perspective appears to be American. Here, the ideal of separation of church and state is the freedom of an individual's religion - not freedom from religion as is France's ideal. Your biography is evidence that you must be aware of this distinction. You are correct that France as a secular society is concerned about "the growth of Islam and the increasing assertion of Muslim identity in the public sphere. The greater the visibility of Islam, the greater the perceived threat to French identity, because the operating assumption is that the two identities cannot be reconciled. One is French first; religious identity must take a back seat." As a proudly secular republic France has no obligation to listen "to its Muslims citizens articulate their own understandings of what it means to be loyal both to Islam and to the republic." The French Muslim citizens must reconcile themselves to living in a secular nation rather than the secular nation reject its own history and revolution to throw off the yoke of religion. Just ask the Catholics.
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Pablo Gonzales
03:03 AM on 09/20/2010
"As a proudly secular republic France has no obligation to listen "to its Muslims citizens articulate their own understandings of what it means to be loyal both to Islam and to the republic."

So a democratic nation has no obligation to listen to is citizens but is happy taking there tax money sounds like something else then a democracy . The French first; religious identity is that of a nation that welcomes all religions beliefs and culture or its not a democracy its a theocracy much like Taliban Afganistan . What french was 100 -200 years ago" christian majority" is not the same anymore because there are people of difference country and nations that have came to France.
01:12 PM on 09/18/2010
It's time members of  arch-conservative Islamic cult which prescribe wearing of  face covering woman containment -units adhere to the desires of the predominant majority of European population. It is not to much to ask in the face( pun intended) of the benefits of European prosperity these cult members are enjoying.
This prosperity is only possible  when regressive Weltanschauung these cult members espouse is vigorously resisted.
12:31 PM on 09/18/2010
"This is not a common garment worn by Muslim women, and yet the government's campaign against burqas and niqabs in public places, culminating in Tuesday's ban, has been aggressive."
The  campaign vy the liberal-Islamnist  alliance  against the ban was  far more aggressive. Hnece  the above article, isn't it?.
French  politicians who voted for this ban and its supporters  are  accused of every sin known to humankind.
Supporters of the  ban are variously accused by the  above alliance of:  Islamopohbia, bigotry, xenophobia, Hitlerism, Nazism, primitivism, stupidity,colonialism( this is the funniest), political opportunism,  neo-conservatism, hatred, ignorance, naivette, desire to expel every Muslim from Europe, desire to close every mosque;anti-Islamism; oppression, regression, cultural imperialism,  and  countless other sins and transgressions..

I support and many others support  the ban as a reasonable effort to get rid of  the culturally offensive  visual blight from the streets of France  And I hope entire Europe  follows suit ( no pun intended).
We' ve bent backways ( pun intended) trying to adjust to various religious minority's  predispositions. Time they returned the favor.
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AZreb
equal-opportunity Independent heathen
08:44 AM on 09/18/2010
The burqa, chador and other coverings of women is a "cultural" and NOT a religious edict! The men in the Islamic religion have decreed that this is what women should wear and nowhere in the Koran is it mandated.

What is not understandable is that the reporters and others from our own country wear head coverings when in Middle Eastern countries as a sign of respect for the Islamic culture but the women who come to European countries and other countries whose primary faith is not Islam will not do without the coverings mandated by their culture (not religion).

When you immigrate to another country, you should assimilate and adopt their cultural mores. If you don't want to do that, then stay in a country where your culture prevails.
07:26 AM on 09/18/2010
Part of Sarkozy's "little man" complex is to ban the burqa.........he is now on to his next project....expel all the Roma from France. It's the new Vichy Government.
12:34 PM on 09/18/2010
Relationship to realty--zero.
The only Roma  expelled were the ones form couple of countries illegally squatting in France. No one else.
The ban on burqa  is  supported by the majoirty of the french, in not Europe. Including many progressive  Muslims themselves.
Europe -wide ban should be  next.
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02:49 PM on 09/17/2010
Are there any French laws concerning the dress of Hasidic Jews ? Catholic Priest and Nun's ?
What about those punk rocker things with the spiked green hair and stuff and Goths oh my god.
There Oughta be a law !
12:38 PM on 09/18/2010
"Are there any French laws concerning the dress of Hasidic Jews ? Catholic Priest and Nun's ?"

Yes. they are not allowed to wear religiously identifying symbols  to school.  Neither  Hassids nor Nuns  are  shrieking  lawsuits demanding  to be able to swim in public pools wearing their  religiously prescribed clothes
there is Catholic monastery equivalent of burqini.
 
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02:07 PM on 09/18/2010
But this article is not about the ban of religious symbols in schools. He's talking about adults in public places.
Is there any law banning religious symbols on the public streets ( Public Places) that pertains to Christian and Jewish symbols ?
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Pablo Gonzales
03:14 AM on 09/20/2010
I know right storys like this one
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France’s struggle with Islamic dress has moved into the swimming pool after a 35-year-old woman was banned from bathing in her “burkini”, a head-to-toe swimsuit.

The woman, identified only as Carole, was making her third outing in a burkini to the town pool at Emerainville, on the eastern outskirts of Paris, when the chief lifeguard ordered her to leave
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She was not forcing anyone to leave while she was in the pool she was wearing her burkini which is like a full body swimsuit and want to go for a swim and was kicked out... so
she cant swim with others
she cant swim by her self
So what should she do try in her bathtub ...but no this is a examtple of Muslims not assimilating to french culture she should of had a 2 piece on with a hajib maybe nothing at all then maybe she could be allowed to swim since that is "french culture"
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02:20 PM on 09/17/2010
"As President Nicolas Sarkozy stated last year, the burqa is "a sign of the subjugation, of the submission, of women." "

Pornography is a sign of the subjugation, of the submission, of women

let's ban that too?
07:16 AM on 09/18/2010
Does Sarkozy's wife......who is nearly a porn star, submit to him?
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09:07 AM on 09/24/2010
it matters not what she does in her personal life if she is dominated or not, but when she poses for a photoshoot that comercialises the female form and encourages the symbology of women as object she in fact promotes the societal subjugation of women into a box
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M Jeffrey
12:33 PM on 09/18/2010
nonsense not all women that do porn are oppressed or even forced your problem iw with sex and the body.
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09:05 AM on 09/24/2010
so what? women that chose to wear the hijab are accused of furthering a symbol of suppressing women. would that not mean that women who chose to create porn are furthering a symbol of suppressing women

get real

western culture has commercialized sexuality and entrenched negative stereotypes of women and their place and purpose in the world as much or more than it has furthered their liberation in effect negating the positive aspects of that liberation
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americancolonyinhell
01:18 PM on 09/17/2010
Gosh, you're kidding. That doesn't mean citing women's civil liberties is inadequate justification.
12:33 PM on 09/17/2010
The issue of the burqa and other Islamic women apparel is going to heat up. The west contends that Muslim men force all women to dress in burqa or hijiab as a sign of suppression, which this is not true. So many in Islam and as well as non Muslims don't quite understand what the ruling of burqa is! For sure, the sunnah for the women to be covered is her body except for face and hands. The burqa accordingly is a cultural thing but is sported in many Muslim lands. Now, during times of strong fitnah (trials), this can be worn to protect the woman. In essence, as the west fears more and more Islamic steps to Islamize it, the Muslimah will be the ultimate target of anti Islamic forces. What is interesting is that the Christians and today's Jews themselves are in direct contravention of their own teachings, visit 1 Timothy 2-9 and Duertoronomy 22-5, which many in the west with cross dressing and styles that fit both sexes, this is a fitting verse for them. Since the women in the west is in violation of these directives many want to the Muslimah to do as they do. All ready there is a push to go after the Muslimah in hijab for drivers license, in public buildings, getting ID's and so on. These provisions have nothing to due with security but with the morbid attempt to go after Muslimahs and to disrobe her into half nakedness
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02:08 PM on 09/17/2010
You are well educated in Sharia law and take it seriously. That's why I engage with you and respect you commitment to Islam.

But your understanding of recent Biblical interpretation is insufficient. 1 Timothy has been eclipsed in Biblical interpretation by recent advances in women's rights in civil law and human rights regimes. I have heard of no mainstream Christian theology that holds to the standards of 1 Timothy.

I doubt that even conservative Catholics would kick out a female member for wearing a bikini at the beach.

As you said in an earlier post, why do Muslims immigrate to a country where the custom is so objectionable?

Europe is a very tolerant place and considers a wide variety of behavior to be acceptable. Niqab is outside the pale.
04:23 PM on 09/17/2010
Jan Allen: Instead of asking "Why do Muslims emigrate to a country where the niqaab is so objectionable?" we can ask "Why does a liberal democracy like France which upholds the freedom of expression and religion discriminate against a population group whose religious garb harms no one else in society?" That isn't reflective of the toleration worthy of a secular democracy; it is bigotry. You have yet to put forward a logical argument for the idea that the niqaab is outside the pale. Right now, your commentary just sounds xenophobic.
02:25 AM on 09/18/2010
The Biblical ayat has been revised? What was the revision? This is why the prophet sws was so hard on the Jews and Christians forsaking and changing the ayats to fit their whims and desires. And it clear and right in what you said that westerners don't hold to this ayat. Except for the nuns of course.
11:58 AM on 09/17/2010
As I've said before, this is nothing more than xenophobia and bigotry at its worst. French law contains provisions to help women who are coerced into wearing a burqa. And as Dr. Green points out, there is no good reason to outlaw the burqa, especially for women who choose to wear it. A liberal democracy oughtn't make judgements about WHY a woman might wear, say, or do something which is an affront to liberalism on the condition that doing so harms no one else in society. Since the burqa doesn't violate the principle of non-harm, it should not be outlawed.

Also, it is perfectly reasonable for people to want to maintain their own social norms, mores, and customs provided that these do not impinge upon the freedoms of others and harm no one else. The majority can express as much disgust as it pleases, but there is no legitimate legal basis for discrimination against immigrants with different ways of being and doing.
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12:13 PM on 09/17/2010
The cultural parameters of a society are set by that society by vote. That is democracy.

Mormons were told that polygyny was unacceptable in America. Muslims are being told that niqab is unacceptable in France. Tolerance is a good thing, but each society gets to define its outer limit.

I have no doubt that your tolerance would not allow you to accept cannibals into your society.
12:31 PM on 09/17/2010
Not so, Jan Allen. The cultural parameters of a society are not decided by a vote on every social custom or practise that is observed or recognised. Democracy cannot be reduced to the act of voting. The United States, for example, does not put people's religious customs or sexual practises up to a vote to determine whether they are acceptable. It is, rather, the Constitution which remains the touchstone for determining what kinds of behaviour are legally permissible. The Constitution, as it turns out, protects freedom of expression and religion. The only caveat is that no one is permitted to express themselves or practise religion in such a way that directly harms other people. These freedoms are enshrined in the law of the land and are not subject to a vote. France, too, claims to protect freedom of expression and religion, but has very clearly violated these principles by passing this discriminatory law.
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Pablo Gonzales
03:46 AM on 09/20/2010
cultural parameters of a society are set by that society by vote Culture does not include religion. Culture is Food art music language ect..... There is a difference between perimeters of a culture and perimeters of a religion. A society does not have the right to dictate or put to vote what a person...
Can do
Should do
Right to do
With his or her religion or what the religion dictates (with little to no knowledge of the religion) whats next Muslims cant pray 5 times they can only pray 3 times because we took a vote on it .
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MrBwood
Religion poisons everything
11:32 AM on 09/17/2010
why are we sticking our noses into Frances business? Aren't we supposed to let countries have their own culture. Doesn't that apply to all countries, France included?
11:20 AM on 09/17/2010
"But what about those Muslim women (and again, there are not that many) who choose to wear a burqa or niqab?"

--Such women might be suffering something akin to "battered wife" syndrome?
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living lightning
Knowledge comes, but wisdom lingers.
09:52 PM on 09/17/2010
And you can confirm this how?
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Nicole Wisen
12:11 AM on 09/22/2010
if only people voiced such concern for porn stars who at the age of 18 do everything. heard of sasha grey? who went on tryra and said she's had sex with multiple men, all at the same time, swallowed, done it without any protection, as well as a-nal, always. she's done hundreds of hardcore films with men who are three times her age, and she'd hardly 20. no one gives a crap about protecting those women, or telling them that's wrong, but the worst thing you could possibly do as a woman is cover your face. if you take it in three different holes, thats ok, its your choice, its legal, but if you cover your face, you have to be a nutter, no doubt about it. go figure.
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CMB1969
raging moderate
09:53 AM on 09/17/2010
Sarkozy is doubtless scoring political points off of this matter and there are doubtless xenophobic emotions involved, but the historic secular character (and doctrine) of French society is very important here. We Americans really do not understand the anti-clerical history in France--in our country "separation of church and state" meant keeping any one religion from becoming dominant and making sure that all religious (and non-religious) perspectives existed on a level playing field. In France the legacy was one of forcible disestablishment of the catholic church--the methods were brutal at times and it took a century following the Revolution for the secular and the religious to reach an understanding. It is that understanding, rather than a universal/absolute belief in religious freedom, that governs French views on religious expression.
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12:40 PM on 09/17/2010
If He is scoring political points because of this, that would surely hint that the majority agree with the policy.