The Chinese & Food

The Chinese are not into snap, crackle and pop. Food consumption reflects a Taoist worldview in which the universe is divided into masculine ("heating") and feminine ("cooling") forces, and everything needs to be balanced accordingly. As a result, chocolate is eaten only as an occasional indulgence, not a daily reward. Breakfast should be soft and warm; cold cereal is a non-starter.

Marketers from Kellogg to Kraft have suffered a series of misfires, largely because Chinese beliefs about wellness both differ radically from Western ones -- they emphasize prevention of illness, whereas we focus on cures -- and are characterized by regional variation. Here then are five tips to guide marketers through the promises and pitfalls of selling food to 1.3 billion Chinese consumers, half of whom now have enough disposable income to buy Pop-Tarts and Oreos.

(1) Western food concepts achieve highest acceptance when they involve consumption in a public context. China is a tea culture, but Starbucks is a hit, largely because its stores have been designed to facilitate tribal self-expression for the new generation. Likewise, pizza is rarely eaten in the home, but Pizza Hut restaurants have struck it rich even in the hinterland. Haagen-Dazs thrives as a chain of ice cream parlors.

(2) Nutritional pitches must conform to Middle Kingdom imperatives. "Energy" is closely linked to "intelligence" or, more specifically, "concentration" and "quick-witted resourcefulness." Calcium strengthens both bones and brains. In a dog-eat-dog competitive landscape in which everyone is scaling the same hierarchical ladder, a sharp mind, not a buff physique, is both a weapon for success and an aphrodisiac.

(3) Immunity is king, and normalcy is queen. Despite explosive economic growth that has lifted 200 million people from absolute poverty, the Chinese do not take survival for granted. That's why all leading brands of infant formula are foreign, despite price premiums of up to 400 percent. Fear of falling ill is acute even among upper-middle-class households. Transformative benefits, on the other hand, have little appeal -- "bigger, stronger, taller" babies are not objects of admiration.

(4) Food isn't just about taste; it facilitates trust. Practically all business deals are done in restaurants (in private rooms) around round tables. Etiquette obeisance is an obstacle course through which the uninitiated stumble. Dish order must be meticulously choreographed. Leaving before the fruit (usually watermelon) is served results in lost face.

(5) In Taoist China, nature purifies and chemicals corrupt. Artificial substances pollute body and soul. Black sesame shampoo is a hit; baby food made with nutrients from pregnant cows commands a price premium.