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Tony Sachs

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The Rumpire Strikes Back: A Dozen Sipping Rums To Challenge Your Preconceptions

Posted: 04/27/2012 5:28 pm

Rum seems to be the alcoholic equivalent of soccer -- always poised to become the next big thing, but never quite getting there. In-the-know rum mavens are well aware that a quality aged rum can be as complex, refined, and just plain tasty as the finest whiskeys or brandies. But for far too many imbibers, rum is something that comes in a bottle with a pirate on it, and should be followed by the words "and Coke." It breaks my heart, it really does.

I wrote a piece about " some of my favorite sipping rums -- the dark, aged stuff as opposed to the lighter brands meant for mixing -- a while back for HuffPo. And I'd like to think that I helped convert a drinker or two. Or, failing that, I hope I gave rum lovers some new brands to try. But having seen one too many rum commercials in which pirates are seen cavorting to White Stripes songs, I'm back, like an overzealous missionary looking to drum my message into the heads of the poor saps I missed the first time around.

Listen up, o bereft of spirits! For here, my flock, are a cool dozen primo examples of just how magical rum can be. They don't need crushed ice, fruit juices, Coca-Cola, grenadine or anything else besides a glass and an open mind (and perhaps a few drops of water or an ice cube, but really, that's it). They range in age from four years to 20-plus. They're sweet, dry, smooth, spicy, rich, earthy... you name it. They come from all over the Caribbean and Latin America. And if you like good spirits, there's no way you won't dig at least a couple of these, no matter your personal taste.

One important thing to remember: aging rum is not the same as aging, say, bourbon or Scotch. Rums are made in tropical climates, and the constant heat ages them a lot quicker than the more temperate weather of, say, Kentucky or Islay, to name just two. Think of aging rum the way you'd think of aging whiskey -- but in dog years. A 12 or 18 or 21-year-old Scotch whisky is pretty standard high-end fare nowadays, but aging a rum for that long without having the whole thing evaporate or taste like a piece of wood is pretty amazing. And believe me, these are amazing rums.

While they probably deserve a write-up of their own, I also included a couple of rhums agricole among my dozen. If you know rhum agricole, you know that it's quite different from traditionally made rum. If you don't know it, scroll down and find out. And then, more importantly, go out and taste some.

There are far more than a dozen rums worth trying. I wrote about some of them in my last piece. I may have left out others as a matter of personal taste. And I'm sure there are plenty I've never heard of. So if your favorite rum was left out, feel free to mention it in the Comments section.

Caribbean: English Harbour Reserve 10 Year Old
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ENGLISH HARBOUR RESERVE 10 YEAR OLD (Antigua; aged 10-25 years, 40% ABV, $94). Made by the Antigua Distillery since 1932, English Harbour isn't well known beyond serious rum aficionados. And that's a shame. Both on the nose and the palate, the 10-year-old just keeps unfolding, revealing layer after delicious layer of flavors. It starts off with a burst of vanilla, segueing nicely into caramel, cinnamon, a little dried citrus fruit, oak... and finally finishing off with just a little peppery burn. A lot of rum boosters who try to convert whiskey fans will use drier rums for comparison. I'd use English Harbour, not because it's dry --in fact, it's a little on the sweet side -- but for its complexity, which rivals anything the whiskey world has to offer. Cheap it ain't, but if you love rum it's worth the price. (I'm looking forward to trying English Harbour's 5-year-old, which is said to be an excellent mixer, and their legendary 1981 bottling, which is tough to find and wildly expensive.)
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Rum seems to be the alcoholic equivalent of soccer -- always poised to become the next big thing, but never quite getting there. In-the-know rum mavens are well aware that a quality aged rum can be a...
Rum seems to be the alcoholic equivalent of soccer -- always poised to become the next big thing, but never quite getting there. In-the-know rum mavens are well aware that a quality aged rum can be a...
 
 
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Robert Rexach
I'm Awesome
12:58 PM on 06/19/2012
I gotta ask... on which plane is it that the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico are next to each other, yet one is Latin America and the other is Caribbean?

Oh, you forgot to mention Barrilito 3 star.
06:10 PM on 05/18/2012
What about cuban rums?
Have you test Edmundo Dantes Añejo 15 ans et also 25 years?
And the Caney 12 years
Then we can tolk.
01:22 PM on 05/03/2012
This was a great article, as well as the comments. Not sure if this is the forum so please bear with me. I have been looking for a rum that used to be available in Canada right up until the eighties. I have not seen it since despite many internet and geographical searches.

The rum is Lemon Hart Gold Label Rum, not to be confused with the Lemon Hart Demerra rum that is still available. Has anyone seen this rum or have access to it? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
12:01 AM on 05/03/2012
My personal favorite is Angostura 1919 from Trinidad. Yes, the same folks who make bitters also make an excellent rum. The nose on this rum smells like creme brulee and the flavor is complex, with just the right amount of sweetness for my taste. This is an 8 year rum that is not particularly expensive (about $30) but I think it holds its own against much older and more expensive rums I've had.
04:58 PM on 05/02/2012
As fine a list as I have ever seen. My only surprise was the Clement VSOP. You were on a roll dragging out the heavy artillery of the rum world, I was half expecting you to mention Clement Cuvée Homére or even the Clement XO. I wouldn't mind trying either one of those myself. If you get to either one of those in the near future, let us know what you think. Great article, Tony!
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
maninaustin
Not a partisan hack
11:32 PM on 05/01/2012
Havana Club Gran Reserva is mindbendingly good.
04:51 PM on 05/01/2012
The packaging has changed! It is MUCH MORE LUXURIOUS now.
12:36 PM on 05/01/2012
You forgot to include rums born here in the good ol' USA. Here in Massachusetts we are seeing a resurgence of micro-distilleries making really good rum.

Turkey Shore Distilleries just won awards at the American Distilling Institute’s 9th Annual Craft Distilling Conference & Vendor Expo, held in early April, 2012 in Louisville, KY. Its Old Ipswich Tavern-Style Rum (extremely sippable) won a Gold Medal for Best of Class Rum category and the Gold Medal for Amber Rum. Its Old Ipswich White Cap Rum won a Bronze Medal in the Clear Rum category. Both spirits, handcrafted in small batches in Ipswich, MA, are available in liquor stores and restaurants in the greater Boston area and throughout Massachusetts. And it is releasing a special edition of Greenhead Spiced Rum on May 5th, 2012. This rum, steeped with green tea, lemongrass & mint, is delicious straight or in a muddle-less mojito.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Tony Sachs
07:52 AM on 05/02/2012
I'm looking forward to trying Old Ipswich! And eventually writing something about made-in-the-USA rums, too. Too many good rums is like too much fresh air, as far as I'm concerned.
06:44 AM on 05/01/2012
You are missing the best one of them all: Pyrat Pistol Rum, from Anguilla, if you can imagine drinking velvet this would be it.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Tony Sachs
07:54 AM on 05/02/2012
I wrote about it in my previous sipping rum piece, which should be linked to in the above article. I like it too!
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02:10 AM on 05/03/2012
Have to disagree there. I haven't had the chance to sip Pistol (it disappeared from shelves in my area when I finally decided to buy it), but I have its squat older brother, and while it's interesting, it's nowhere near tops for me. Very unique though.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
sacmom3
ENOUGH! Remember the children of Sandy Hook
04:55 AM on 05/01/2012
Rum is my weakness. I'm going to have fun going through this list.
03:30 AM on 05/01/2012
Yay for Mount Gay! Unfortunately their most easily found product Eclipse, is their least remarkable. I'm looking forward to finding and trying the Extra Old. They used to make a product called Sugarcane Brandy which was delicious.
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11:44 PM on 04/30/2012
The finest rum I've ever sipped is Ron Zacapa 23 year old from Guatemala, beats anything on this list hands down!
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Tony Sachs
07:53 AM on 05/02/2012
Not my favorite, but I do like it and wrote about it in my last sipping rum piece -- the link should be in the article above.
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climbing panda
there's a log in my cabin
03:36 PM on 04/30/2012
there is a new line of rums out of Kaua'i, Hawai'i called Koloa. highly recommended.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Tony Sachs
07:56 AM on 05/02/2012
I heard about Koloa while I was working on this piece, but haven't had a chance to try it yet. Looking forward to it.
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climbing panda
there's a log in my cabin
02:18 PM on 05/02/2012
the dark and spiced are my favorites. i did the dark with some lilikoi nectar and a splash of pineapple juice. i drink the spiced neat. it is slightly sweet, but still great.
09:32 AM on 04/28/2012
Glad to see the Santa Teresa make this list. My go-to sipper. Agree w/ the comments re: Zacapa, as well...
03:13 PM on 04/27/2012
Great choices indeed, though here in New Zealand we don't have the freedom to samples said wares but mostly the mainstream brands. Hence why we make our own I guess. My favourite being Wild Days Rum; Made from natural rain water of Waiheke Island (near Auckland) and blended, double distilled, filtered and oak aged to give a fine smooth taste. Every bottle contains chunks of oak to keep the flavour infusing. (Oak chunks not for consumption). http://wilddaysrum.co.nz/

On the other end of the scale is 'Gunpowder Rum'... with yes... real gunpowder, and this is real mind-blowing rum!!! As one reviewer states: 'It described Smoke & Oakum's Gunpowder Rum as having "an explosive nose of graphite, maple syrup and spent shotgun cartridges", followed by an "earthy palate" and "spicy, tingling, phosphorous finish". - "Sip, light touch paper, stand back and ponder the Kiwi mentality." - http://www.stuff.co.nz/life-style/food-wine/5890242/Rum-maker-inspired-by-pirates

~Rumbelly Russ~ NZ
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
BuckyJamesDio
This monkey's going to Heaven
09:52 PM on 04/30/2012
Fascinating concept of adding both bits of oak in one and a sulfurous compound in another. These intrigue me, yet I am pretty sure these are not available stateside.

*sigh* - guess I'll have to call my travel agent ...

Thanks for the info, and cheers!