There are a million ways to lose your childhood. It's happening everywhere, all the time, without your foreknowledge or consent. You know how it goes: you have a bar mitzvah or Confirmation, you get your first MetroCard, you find first love, you move away from home.

I couldn't tell...

There's not much left to say about the scenic implications of a night out at Red Rooster Harlem, celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson's famously funky bazaar in the heart of Harlem. All of it -- the dizzying kaleidoscope of races and ethnicities; the rotating cast of local political figures and tastemakers;...