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Vivian Diller, Ph.D.

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Cosmetics Drugs Gone Too Far: Is Anything Still Real?

Posted: 07/12/10 01:08 PM ET

There is something about the new cosmetic "option" for thicker eyelashes that bothers me, though I'm not sure what it is. Perhaps it's the resistance I still feel after leaving behind those false lashes I wore while modeling with Wilhelmina in the 70s. Or maybe wearing my current hat as a psychologist, it doesn't fit with my belief that women can find true beauty within. Yet, my patients in their twenties and thirties insist, "Hey, it's great. Why not have beautiful lashes without having to apply mascara?" Older women claim, "My lashes have thinned and it helps me get back to what I used to have naturally." Undeniably, the reviews on these products -- including Latisse, Lilash, Revitalash and Marini Lash to name a few -- are largely positive. Except for a few complaints about mild irritation, allergic reactions and occasional permanent eye color change, most report they are satisfied by the thicker and darker lashes they see as long as they keep using the product.

Some women don't realize that Latisse (the first of lash thickeners to be FDA approved) was a drug originally intended for glaucoma. An unexpected side effect was that it was found to increase the growth of eyelashes. It was then approved to treat hypotrichosis (a technical term for medical hair loss) and over time has been prescribed to treat what marketers call "inadequate eyelashes." Much the way Retin-A cream and Botox (produced by the same company that created Latisse) once served to treat medical symptoms, Latisse now routinely serves cosmetic purposes. Miracle drug? Or another slippery slope for women to slide down?

I have no trouble with the idea that there are products and procedures that enhance a woman's natural beauty. In fact, I accept the fact that women are probably hardwired to pay attention to how we look and that we need to take care of our appearance in ways that feel appropriate for our age. Take Victoria's Secret, for example, and the many bras they now offer for women of all sizes, shapes and ages. Are there any reasons why a woman who doesn't mind a little push or tug, shouldn't enjoy sexy underwear options that were unavailable to previous generations? Spanx doesn't bother me either. Women say the squeezing and constriction are worth the shaping it provides. In fact, compared to the ungainly padded bras and girdles of yesteryear, these seem more appealing to today's women who are interested in making efforts toward looking great at any age.

Where I have trouble, is when women ask my thoughts about unalterable cosmetic procedures: breast implants, liposuction, brow and facelifts. I am concerned when patients talk about the constant surgical work they have done to upkeep their various body parts -- for example, adding "hand rejuvenation" to their list so that their aging hands match up with their youthful faces. I ask them to think carefully and thoughtfully about their expectations -- the whys, the costs and general long-term consequences. And it's perhaps here where my issue with "longer lashes movement" comes into play. In my mind, using a prescription medicine to enhance a woman's appearance lies somewhere closer to plastic surgery than Spanx or padded bras. And yet, its casual use is taking off at a rapid rate with women of all ages.

So, maybe the better question is, where do products like Latisse lead us? Have we created a disease we now call "inadequate eyelashes" that requires a new product, that mascara cannot take care of? Have we just found another way for women to feel they fall short as they yearn for some permanent and radical solution to reach ideal beauty? And what about the potential physical and psychological consequence of repeated usage of lash thickener? When we try any new beauty fad, are we relying on the due diligence of the cosmetic industry or the FDA? We need only recall that steroids (also once used for medical purposes) were found to enhance athletic ability and then ultimately were discovered to be dangerous, both for the long-term health of the athlete and of the sports world in general. It led to a deep mistrust in who was using and who had true talent, resulting in drug testing in all of sports.

Then there's the use of stimulants, originally prescribed for children suffering Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder, now being used as the new "brain power" drug. Ritalin and Adderall, two popular ADHD medications, have been reported to enhance a student's ability to concentrate regardless of any diagnosis. A recent 60 Minutes report by Katie Couric described the routine use of these drugs by students on college campuses. A school counselor on the program said she believed that close to 80 percent of the seniors in fraternities and sororities were popping these pills to raise test scores and achieve higher grades.

And let us not forget the Viagra and Cialis craze. Look where that's led our husbands, lovers, fathers and brothers. Once used for symptoms of Erectile Dysfunction resulting from prostate cancer or an enlarged prostate, they are now packed as part of the overnight bag to ensure a fun evening. Men -- especially midlifers -- tell me that the promotion of these products in the media has provoked unexpected feelings of inadequacy.

Lastly, we need only look at the exponential rise in the use of cosmetic procedures to witness one of the most slippery of slopes men and women are finding themselves on. Plastic surgery, Botox, injectables, fillers, laser treatments -- the list is long -- are regularly used to alter looks, defy aging, enhance and improve. And not just by the rich and famous (although, according to the New York Times, it's the famous who are now just beginning to see the negative consequences of surgical procedures as they find that their plastic bodies and frozen faces are a turn-off to casting agents). Enhancements made surgically are permanent and permanently problematic.

So back to those eyelashes. I suppose I do realize what bothers me. First, it's the long-term safety factor. We, our daughters, and all those young women who are being offered these new products, are like variables in an experiment that has not yet shown proven success over time. As a psychologist, the biggest issue for me is that yet another feature, characteristic or human natural quality will come under question: what is real and what isn't? Our mothers' generation used to ask, "does she or doesn't she?" Our generation of girls now asks "has she or hasn't she?" Even boys-who-would-be-ballplayers now ask, "does he or doesn't he?" What questions will our sons and daughters ask in the future? Will they wonder if anything about a man or a woman is real? Will we trust women to be who they appear to be? Can men really have the bodies they do without drugs? Last for four hours on their own? Does that Harvard degree mean the same thing if it was achieved while taking the SATs on Adderall?

Wouldn't it be reassuring if women could at least love their lashes as they are? What do you think?

Copyright 2010 Vivian Diller Ph.D., author of Face It: What Women Really Feel as Their Looks Change

Author Bio
Vivian Diller, Ph.D., is a psychologist in private practice in New York City. Dr. Diller was a professional dancer before she became a professional model, represented by Wilhelmina, appearing in Glamour, Seventeen, national print ads, and TV commercials. After completing her Ph.D. in clinical psychology, she went on to do postdoctoral training in psychoanalysis at NYU. She has written articles on beauty, aging, eating disorders, models, and dancers, and served as a consultant to a major cosmetic company interested in promoting age-related beauty products. Her book, FACE IT: What Women Really Feel As Their Looks Change (2010), written with Jill Muir-Sukenick, Ph.D. and edited by Michele Willens, is a psychological guide to help women deal with the emotions brought on by their changing appearances. "Today" co-host Hoda Kotb called it "a smart book for smart women."

For more information, please visit www.VivianDiller.com.

 
 
 

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There is something about the new cosmetic "option" for thicker eyelashes that bothers me, though I'm not sure what it is. Perhaps it's the resistance I still feel after leaving behind those false lash...
There is something about the new cosmetic "option" for thicker eyelashes that bothers me, though I'm not sure what it is. Perhaps it's the resistance I still feel after leaving behind those false lash...
 
 
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DrVivian
Clinical Psychologist and author of Face It
02:10 PM on 07/15/2010
Exactly Jorana! A product that may begin as a new cosmetic option can eventually become the standard. Years ago people reluctantly wore braces to correct their buckteeth, for over or under bites. Now adolescents are rarely given a choice if they have less than perfect teeth. Braces are expected. As you write in your comment Jordana, the problem lies in the new standards these enhancements can create and in the potential hazards of potential long-term side effects. It one thing when new products are used carefully and help people enjoy the quality of their lives. But it’s another when they are misused or abused and lead to serious, unknown complications.
11:24 AM on 07/15/2010
As someone in her early twenties, I find this article particularly interesting. I feel that right now, the trend is to look great, while some how simultaneously making it look like you're not trying "too-hard." The new eyelash enhancer described above fits perfectly with the trend and I find that extremely disconcerting. You will not look like you're wearing globs of eye make up, but rather, you'll appear to have perfectly thick, long, natural lashes. This could take off and become the next big thing before we have time to really deconstruct the physical and cultural repercussions of such a product.
02:46 PM on 07/14/2010
I am editor of a trade magazine that goes to physicians interested in helping their patients look and feel good as they age. Since I write for dermatologists and plastic surgeons, I am well aware of these enhancements, but I think that a perfectly healthy woman can make up her mind that she wants Latisse--in the same way she may pick a designer purse. One of our board members wrote about this topic, taking an opposite view. http://healthy-aging.advanceweb.com/Article/Beyond-Appearances.aspx. I myself am fine without Latisse, but I do enjoy the occassional enhancement, whether a new lipstick, a new purse or an extra special cream that fights wrinkles (in as little as 10 days, or so it says!!). Where does one draw the line? Interestingly, permanent plastic surgery is now not as popular--as say temporary solutions such as Botox and lasers. I believe you can love yourself and still get these treatments--though obviously world peace and hunger are more important. Very interesting analysis--and I too appreciate the "realness" of wrinkles and full expression, but have to admit I have also found myself admiring the plump face of my youth. Would I be wrong to get Botox to try to recapture that--with sound mind fully aware of the beauty within? I think not.
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DrVivian
Clinical Psychologist and author of Face It
05:51 PM on 07/14/2010
Comparing the use of Latisse to choosing a designer purse is actually what concerns me. There is a slippery slope that these products/procedures can lead to, especially for a generation of young women growing up with their casual use. Remember when we used to wonder, "does she or doesn’t she?” It’s a question no longer asked since dying our hair is as routine as getting a facial or pedicure. Now the question is, “has she or hasn’t she?” We wonder if some hidden secret lies behind the refreshed faces we see on our friends and peers. The key word, I believe, is choice. I don’t condemn what women decide to do –cosmetic or otherwise -- as long as they are making thoughtful choices. We are living longer with more and more options –cosmetic and medical -- that women can take advantage of. Choosing carefully and being aware of the consequences is the challenge we face, living in a culture so driven toward youth and beauty..
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antaeus
Marriage Equality Is Here
07:54 PM on 07/14/2010
Condemnation is indeed a strong stance. Let's instead consider the ethics of using a medical system that is already inequitably distributed (even when it comes to life-saving treatments) for procedures that are discretionary, short-lived, and probably far less effective than credulous consumers imagine them to be.

In a society on the economic brink, with health care increasingly preoccupying us, this issue deserves a much wider focus than that of the conveniently invoked "personal choice."
08:22 AM on 07/14/2010
I hadn't heard of these products before (probably have not reached Europe/have not been approved yet), but it confirms my belief that the beauty-craze is getting out of hand.
Thicker eyelashes?
Come on!
There definitely are other things women (and men) should worry about.
Climate change, poverty, education, just to name a few.
But I guess as long as we are being force fed that only women who fulfill the 'standards of beauty' set by Hollywood are successful (remember the Sex And The City movie? The anti-fur activists of course were everyday, unglamurous maybe even ugly, what a way to manipulate people even if it only wokrs unconsciously), things like this will still be consumed.
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DrVivian
Clinical Psychologist and author of Face It
09:29 AM on 07/14/2010
Isn't it is up to us to offer alternatives to the media 'beauty-craze' that is getting out of hand? We can either buy into it, or react by not falling victim to the belief that more is always better. At least we can be thoughtful about the choices we make when it comes to caring for ourselves. Some new skin products, for example, are great. They not only prolong the health of our skin, but enhance our looks. Baby boomers who are hitting midlife by the millions around the word could join together and provide a different model for beauty for the next generation. It's a responsibility I think we should be willing to take on.
bklynsparrow
creating reality from unreal things
07:03 PM on 07/13/2010
I wonder about the long term effects of the casual use ofthese drugs? Will we find out later that more people are developing eye diseases, or kids brains are rewired so that they will always need to be on drugs to focua on anything? Will we see higher rates of differnt knds of cancers, or new ones developing? I guess we'll only know yeatrs down the road, but what ifby then it's too late?
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DrVivian
Clinical Psychologist and author of Face It
09:14 PM on 07/13/2010
The physical side effects of all drugs are best researched through controlled long-term clinical trials rather than through experimentation on our own bodies. That's why FDA approval is required before any prescription drugs can be mass marketed. And although we all know that FDA approved drugs are sometimes withdrawn after unforeseen dangers are discovered, most often we can rely on this process to safely take prescription medicine. But the long-term cultural effects resulting from casual use of prescription drugs to enhance beauty, virility, concentration or athleticism are much harder to measure. How will these trends impact the next generation psychologically?
bklynsparrow
creating reality from unreal things
11:21 PM on 07/13/2010
It seems to me that where we used to accept people for their physical differences, today we demonize those who don't fit the young and thin ideal. I've seen some horrible things said about overweight people on HP, and awful comments about the elderly. Nearly every photo in magazines are airbrushed to death- we think people really look that perfect. What else can it be but damaging to those people (99% of us) who can't be like that? It's the thing i used to hate about the Miss American contest. A scholarship went to the prettiest girl who could play Fur Elise by twanging her nose hairs. Yet there were hundreds of thousands of brilliant young women who didn't look like Miss America, who never had a chance to get a scholarship. So that reinforced the idea that only the prettiest deserved scholarships. We've been doing this kind of damage to young women for generations. Eyelashes, the whiteness of your teeth, the perfection of your body- we're losing our creativity in science and math, but not new ways to plasticize ourselves. Just my thoughts as I see my lovelyl niece growing up with her beautiful and imperfect features.
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vippy
Carpe Diem!
12:26 PM on 07/13/2010
I just don't believe that eye lashes would grow with a simple pill. If that is true then balding men would use this pill to grow hair. Just does not make sense to me. People are probably thinking it makes their lashes grow. Lashes grow according to eye size, eye ball, just study people who have long lashes verses some that barely have any. Back before the 1960 we called the big lips bubble lips and we made fun of them. Now people are destroying their looks with these humongeous lips, out of proportion, cartoonish or scary! Can't they see that?
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DrVivian
Clinical Psychologist and author of Face It
03:04 PM on 07/13/2010
There is research to demonstrates that lashes do in fact thicken from the use of the medicines mentioned in this piece. My understanding is that regular use of these drops (not a pill) increases the growth and thickness of already existing hair. I wouldn't be surprised if studies are actively being done using these formulas to find a cure for baldness. Good marketing and the placebo effect may make the results even more enjoyable, but lash enhancement is definitely not just in the heads of their users.
11:37 PM on 07/12/2010
So true. If the media could promote an ounce of normalcy such as thin lips
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DrVivian
Clinical Psychologist and author of Face It
08:26 AM on 07/13/2010
The media is unlikely to promote thin lips (or wrinkles or gray hair) for the moment, but how about starting with commercials and ads encouraging men and women to prolong the health of their faces and bodies using products that are FDA approved? How about that instead of the "anti-aging" movement? That would be refreshing start toward promoting normalcy. "Real" could eventually be viewed as "beautiful" if we saw more and more real beauty in the media. We all have to support that trend, starting with living by those ideals ourselves, to get that movement going.
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vippy
Carpe Diem!
12:35 PM on 07/13/2010
Right, no wrinkle cream works otherwise they would not put these young beauties on the advertising pages. The FDA approves all creams and lotions that have rust removers and antifreeze in it. And the SPF is actually dangerous. Beauty comes from the inside, nutrition
and along with lifestyle prolongs youth. If those creams would work people would not have to resort to Botox or plastic surgeons. But advertising does wonders and people are gullible.
bklynsparrow
creating reality from unreal things
06:58 PM on 07/13/2010
I've always had full lips. And so do the majority of Black people in this country. For years I heard, only thin lips were beautiful and they were wrong. The problem with what they do to lips today is that they look like sausages, not lips. This is not a matter of thin vs full lips, its natural vs unnatural.
10:53 PM on 07/12/2010
The irony is that if everyone ultimately uses eyelash enhancers its intrinsic value will decrease. Of course those who do not join in or cannot afford it may seem less beautiful but the race to "perfection" is likely to shift to something else once the eyelash thickness challenge has been conquered (look at the way our culture considers orthodonture work in children).
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DrVivian
Clinical Psychologist and author of Face It
08:18 AM on 07/13/2010
Lawrence, the drive toward this "race to perfection" is what interests me. As a physician/behavioral pediatrician/social commentator, you seem intrigued by this issue too. I want to understand what is at root of women willing to risk their health to achieve perfect beauty? You have written a great deal on this topic (and have a book coming out to follow up “Running on Ritalin”), so tell us why you think parents look the other way while their children use medication to strive toward perfect SAT scores? Sports psychologists and coaches surely study what drives high school athletes to risk their future, academically and physically, when they use drugs to win championships. What lies behind that self destructive trend?

We need to talk more about this topic and offer solutions to help our youth/beauty/success driven culture pay attention to the potential dangers of seeking perfection. Big questions that require big answers that may not easily be found, but it's a conversation that is worth starting on Huffington Post. I’m interested in hearing from others what they think about this cultural dilemma we face. We owe answers to our chidren who are being set up for a "race to perfection" that they can not win. I think we can do better than that for the next generation. Your thoughts?
04:25 PM on 07/12/2010
Great article.
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Michele Willens
06:21 PM on 07/13/2010
time to get off the slope nice work!
03:46 PM on 07/12/2010
I like your article. I would prefer living in a real world with real people in it.
We may be going down this dangerous road because of what marketing has made us compare ourselves to. What I expect are increases in pharma -enhancements. When I see reality shows and reality show talk shows glamorizing young women using cosmetic surgery, I feel sad.
Pilots and truckers along with college kids using stimulants, is another example of why I feel so confused with the hard sell by big -pharma on why drugs and fake should be an accepted part of who we are. So many mixed messages in society.
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DrVivian
Clinical Psychologist and author of Face It
04:32 PM on 07/12/2010
Any thought about how to combat this trend toward "more is better?" I figure writing this Huff Post piece, starting this conversation and sharing it with others is one way. And talking about these issues to our kids is another.
11:21 PM on 07/12/2010
This may be a self esteem issue in our culture or it may be that people will always compare themselves to someone they feel is superior in some way. There is always someone prettier, smarter, bigger, faster, richer, etc...

I know others have said this but I feel that over-riding the "more is better" feeling and enjoying who you are and what you have, may be the only true happiness. Having everything you want is great but most people will still want more.

Nancy Etcoff has a great book on some of these issues called "Survival of the Prettiest".
Beauty has and will always be a powerful thing and people will always do extreme things in the name of beauty.

I have heard that people need to be in a state of near-achievement and posed with an attainable challenge for happiness. Thank you for an interesting and important article.
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antaeus
Marriage Equality Is Here
03:29 PM on 07/12/2010
Thank you for posting what I have been saying for some time to friends. Early-onset high eye pressure appears to be hereditary for me, and after my pressure reached the unsafe zone at a young age, my creepy Beverly Hills ophthalmologist put me on the drops that are now being marketed for cosmetic use. I used them every night in both eyes for four years, during which time my doctor had me come in for what seemed too-frequent appointments, some of which included photographs of my grotesquely long lashes. Being more concerned for my vision, I didn't question the regime. Now it seems clear I was being used as a test subject for a frivolous misuse of a serious medication. The drops are tedious, they cause dryness and itching, and they're expensive--but that's a small price to pay to save your vision. But you'd have to be crazy to want to use such a chemical just to enhance your lashes, and your instincts about the unseemliness of the whole thing are spot on. Brava!
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DrVivian
Clinical Psychologist and author of Face It
11:05 PM on 07/12/2010
It is surprising to find how many people are willing to undergo cosmetic procedures to enhance their looks or to defy their age without clear information about what these procedures entail. Glad the article resonated with your thoughts.
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DrVivian
Clinical Psychologist and author of Face It
02:59 PM on 07/12/2010
Yes, marketing of side effects as "solutions" can be dangerous. But I am also aware that life saving solutions are sometimes found from side effects of drugs as well. The kind of products mentioned in this piece all require long term research to determine if their positive effects outweigh the negative. I am suggesting approaching cosmetic choices with the kind of careful thoughtfulness we would any new marketed drug, a tough thing to do when the desire to look and feel beautiful is so compelling in American culture.
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organicconnect
01:34 PM on 07/12/2010
The marketing of side effects as "solutions" is a dangerous precedent. What this actually means is that someone has figured out how to generate profits from the "oops" of some Frankendrug. You'd think we would learn our lessons along this line. http://organicconnectmag.com/wp/2009/11/have-we-learned-by-our-mistakes/