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Vivian Diller, Ph.D.

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A Gray Area? Rethinking Hair Norms

Posted: 05/24/11 09:25 AM ET

We've had the generation gap and the gender gap. Are we ready to tackle the "gray" gap?

As long as can be remembered, there has been a double standard about going gray. Men -- like George Clooney, Richard Gere and Bill Clinton -- not only expose their lightening locks, they seem to improve with them! Men who add color are sometimes left with that unnatural, strange orange look.

Now this may be changing. Products are better and vulnerabilities more apparent. On a recent NBC Today Show, I talked with Donny Deutsch about midlife graying. Donny -- looking great with his salt and pepper -- told me that more men were visiting salons these days, not only to color their hair, but for pedicures and manicures. The thing is, he said, "most men don't come clean about it ... I don't know one man who does. " I added that as we live longer, we are all challenged by our youth-obsessed culture, whether we talk openly about it or not. We both agreed that men were paying more attention to their appearance, but were less comfortable sharing their grooming routines with other guys the way women do.

Meanwhile, there has been a growing call to arms among women to resist anti-aging messages. Authentic beauty is in. Plastic is out. "Go gray!" we hear. "Be proud of your silver locks. It's cool, even sexy!" And while many women support the new trend -- especially when it comes to 'others' taking the leap -- there is still ambivalence about it all. "I would do it in a minute, if I wasn't scared I'd look like my grandma," or "I'm more than ready, but what will everyone else think?" are common responses. Even those who are eager to take the step say, "It's not being gray that concerns me, it's how to make the transition that does."

In spite of the wish to jump on the "50 is the new 30" bandwagon, most men and women express legitimate angst about the impact gray hair can have on their careers, their relationships and their self-esteems. Men want to seem hip enough to land good work. Women worry it will add years to their faces and possibly even send the message they are letting themselves go.

In truth, there aren't many visible female role models for this "go gray" movement. Not one of the 15 women listed among the Fortune 500 female CEOs had gray hair last year and only five of the 93 women in Congress show their gray. There are a few actresses, like Betty White, Helen Mirren and Judi Dench, who proudly sport their white manes on screen, and even the occasional part that requires gray for the role -- remember Streep went white to play The Devil Wears Prada's Miranda? But public displays celebrating female gray are still rare and fleeting.

While bucking the five-decade long tradition of coloring gray hair raises a variety of fears among women, a "Gray Movement" does seem to be catching on. It is supported by our ever-increasing aging population; women interested in finding ways to look attractive, without resorting to radical measures to turn back the clock. And although men continue to have an easier time with their gray -- being viewed as distinguished, even elegant -- more have become cognizant of the pressure to appear younger that exists in our culture.

Women are fighting back by rebelling against age-defying campaigns and more men are recognizing that they are facing challenges of their own. The fact is, we all age and we all ultimately turn gray as we do. And, as we live longer lives -- with heads of gray for many more years than ever before -- the gender gap seems to be narrowing as we cope with this reality. In other words, things aren't so black and white anymore.

Some "gray" facts:

• Graying is a natural phenomenon that comes with age as follicles at the base of the hair shaft lose melanin.
• Graying is primarily genetically determined. We most often see gray when our parents and grandparents did.
• Poor nutrition, Vitamin B and iron deficiency, thyroid problems, albinism, smoking and other environmental toxins may also contribute to graying.
• Caucasians tend to start graying earlier (in their early 30s), than Asians (late 30s) and Afro-Americans (mid-40s).
• While, on average, most people begin to gray between the ages of 30 and 40, white hair can appear at anytime. People who go gray before 40 are considered prematurely gray.


Facts about our graying population:


• More than 40 percent of Americans will have some gray by age 40.
• If people didn't color their hair, half of our current population would be 50 percent gray.
• More than 50 percent of women color their hair. Approximately 15 percent of men do, although some say many more men keep it hidden.
• There are 78 million Baby Boomers in the U.S. The oldest turned 65 this year and 10,000 more will reach that milestone every year for the next 19 years.
• Last year alone, approximately 2 billion dollars were spent on women's hair coloring products and $150 million on men's.
• The average woman spends $330 a year on coloring her hair.

So, what are we to make of the rising interest in women letting their hair go gray and more men coloring theirs?

The double standard around going gray is rooted in the different roles that looks play -- and have played for thousands of years -- in men and women's lives. Let's remember that women's primary function throughout history was to attract a mate and procreate. Just a little over 100 years ago, the average life expectancy was about age 48, so that women often died before they had much white hair. As a result, there is a strong association between the appearance of gray hair and a woman's loss of fertility, as well as her value to society. This connection is likely hard-wired into the brains of both men and women. It's only since the feminist revolution that women's roles have widely expanded and their lives have extended beyond child rearing age. In the 1970s, when dyes and chemicals were found to safely remove gray, coloring hair became a routine way for women to avoid appearing old and feeling less valued.

In contrast, men's primary function throughout history has been as caretaker of their clan; to hunt and protect. For thousands of years, a man's value was based primarily on his strength and power. A little salt -- or even totally white hair -- was not, and still isn't necessarily, associated with the loss of that role. In fact, white hair was thought to mean greater hardiness, the ability to survive long enough to attain greater wisdom and increased power. Just think white wigs on our founding fathers. In Colonial times, many men wore wigs to look older and to enhance their patriarchal appearance.

As women's roles continue to expand, graying hair has the chance to be associated with more modern societal values. There are more women in the work force than ever before, many gaining high-level positions that come with added power and influence. With these advances come more visible gray hair and more women who embrace it as a style statement. It's not about letting hair go gray or being passive about one's looks, but about going gray in a proactive way.

At the same time, men have begun to feel less ashamed about caring for their appearances. Men are becoming more comfortable publicly making efforts to look younger, not only by dyeing their hair, but by sometimes admitting to regular use of plastic surgery and Botox. Once viewed as signals of vanity, insecurity or femininity, these grooming practices are increasingly viewed as routine ways for men to look good and keep fit as they age.

"To gray or not to gray?" It is just one of many choices that adults face as they age in the midst of a youth-driven culture. Eager for authenticity, more women are celebrating their silver locks rather than hiding them, while image-conscious men are choosing to color theirs. Another gender divide seems to be crumbling.

Do you think the double standard surrounding gray hair is changing? Are more women in your life considering letting their hair go gray? Are more men coloring theirs?

****
Vivian Diller, Ph.D. is a psychologist in private practice in New York City. She has written articles on beauty, aging, media, models and dancers. She serves as a consultant to companies promoting health, beauty and cosmetic products. "Face It: What Women Really Feel As Their Looks Change" (2010), written with Jill Muir-Sukenick, Ph.D. and edited by Michele Willens, is a psychological guide to help women deal with the emotions brought on by their changing appearances.

For more information, please visit my websites at www.FaceItTheBook.com and www.VivianDiller.com. Friend me on Facebook (at http://www.facebook.com/Readfaceit) or continue the conversation on Twitter.

 
 
 

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We've had the generation gap and the gender gap. Are we ready to tackle the "gray" gap? As long as can be remembered, there has been a double standard about going gray. Men -- like George Clooney, Ri...
We've had the generation gap and the gender gap. Are we ready to tackle the "gray" gap? As long as can be remembered, there has been a double standard about going gray. Men -- like George Clooney, Ri...
 
 
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09:21 PM on 05/28/2011
I remember my Grandmother telling me when I was a teen that her hair had been the same color as mine when she was young and that by age 35 all her hair was white. She had the most beautiful white hair. I am now over 50 and white, but not totally. I quit coloring it about two years ago and am so glad that I did. I have found it liberating.
01:13 PM on 05/28/2011
In the same boat as a few others. I've been dying my hair for 17 years now. It started out of fun (red, blonde, pink- yay!) but has now become a chore. I'm 37 and I'm guessing around 20% silvery-grey. The problem is I have long hair that I won't cut. Growing it out would end up being this weird line of demarcation where the (at this point) brassy brown ends and my natural chocolate with silver begins. My hairdresser literally laughed at me when I asked for "greylights" to make it a gradual process. What now?
01:05 PM on 05/28/2011
I went gray shortly after turning 60 and I did it through gradually coloring less and less hair to avoid the skunk stripe. My hair currently is all natural at almost 68, with mostly gray in front and less at the back. I did it because no dye was that flattering to my face and I felt the natural color had better odds of looking balanced-- it does. Dye rarely looks real and it's not nearly as flattering when it's harsh as to just let what would naturally happen-- happen. I don't believe that is so in one's 50s when the face can still support a stronger color. But by 60s, most women I have seen look better if it's natural
11:12 AM on 05/28/2011
Screw standards and norms for the sake of personal appearance and peer group acceptability. The culture is a sick narcissistic judgemental committee culture that reeks of totalitarianism and at this point fascism. Be your natural physical self. As long as one bathes, one's hair (or non-hair) or dress is irrelevant to anything in the real world. Standards about personal appearance are always used for social control, whether it's the lashings on the back of tribal africans, the neck rings, lip plates, or the GQ conspicuous consumption model to symbolize "success." All these cultures are sick anyway...think for yourself and present yourself as you are and always question authority.
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Laika
11:08 AM on 05/28/2011
And another thing: I find blond, blond hair incongruous with a naturally aging face. Take the Governor of Arizona, Jan Brewer. She probably dyes her hair, and her coif is quite pretty, but it is, well, anachronistic with her face. I think she would look better grayer.
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Laika
11:04 AM on 05/28/2011
I see my graying hair as free highlighting.
09:09 AM on 05/28/2011
There are many gender differences between men and women. These social constructions add to the differences and attractiveness between the sexes. Get over it. Men don't wear make up, fewer have piercings, don't wear heals, don't paint their toenails, don't use wrinkle cream, don't shave their arm pits, don't shave their legs, in general wear their hair shorter - all differences in how our sexes perceives beauty. All of these are "double standards" as some would call them, but frankly that is what defines us. If a woman says to her mate, I find facial hair to be ugly, would her male mate then grow a beard. If women find gray men attractive, but men don't find grey women attractive, what sense is there is saying, "damn it, I don't care if men don't like, I'm going gray anyway", other than a desire to be single or an intention to be unattractive. A desire to be unattractive is not really empowerment, it is indifference.
10:21 AM on 05/28/2011
That's a load. I find mature, smart men don't mind grey, and for sure I don't! What I have noticed is that the grey hair literally is thicker, so as I'm going grey, the volume is increasing and it's blending with my strawberry blonde to get even lighter!
02:39 PM on 05/28/2011
I find it interesting that you seem to base a woman's value, or self esteem on men's opinions rather than her own. It is not a desire to be 'unattractive" that drives a woman to go gray, but rather a self assurance, liberating feeling that you are your own person, not society's, or men's idea of what's attractive. Something that many men appreciate, surprisingly enough.
05:29 AM on 05/28/2011
I'd love to have long thick gray hair. Hell, I'd love to HAVE hair--period. Seriously, people need to get a grip on what is and isn't important. GTG, time to wax my head.
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Jean Clelland-Morin
religion / the Golden Rule
04:17 AM on 05/28/2011
Forget the hair poisons. Cut it short and punk it with a little gel. // Jean Clelland-Morin
04:29 AM on 05/28/2011
But Jean, that's just as prescriptive as saying gray hair isn't OK.
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Jean Clelland-Morin
religion / the Golden Rule
04:36 PM on 05/28/2011
Hi Meiju. It's just an easy way to get the strands out of your face. I went bald when I was on chemo. Now I just put a band - like a pony-tail, only doubled over, and let the fringe splay out. No fuss.
03:35 AM on 05/28/2011
Interesting discussion. I just scrolled through a bunch of pages. So far, though, I haven't seen anything on a very practical question: How, exactly, do you manage the transition from dyed hair to "natural silver" without also buying into another notion promoted by Western culture (and certainly by hair salons), and one that I've seen a lot in these comments as well -- namely, that past a certain age it's "better" and more "age appropriate" and more "flattering" to have short hair? (Preferably, presumably, a style that is maintained regularly at a pricey salon, LOL.)

Personally I don't think long hair is aging (just the opposite, actually) ... but ultimately, I don't really care whether others think it is or isn't, because I'm darned well not cutting my long hair! I'm 50 and always wanted to be one of those cool old ladies in their 70s with natural long locks. I may not have Emmylou's bone structure (I wish!), but what a wonderful ideal, and I'd be more than happy to be my own less-than-finely-chiseled version of it.

I do color my black hair at the moment. And am getting rather tired of it. However, other than five years of the roots slowly traveling down the strands, what exactly is a practical solution? Just curious!
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AspenPinetree
Never wrestle with a pig, you both get dirty
10:12 AM on 05/28/2011
I used temporary hair color, some streaking and I did cut it shorter. You will have to put up with some root shine but the color will also fade and start to blend in. If you have a lot of gray now your roots shine through in a couple of weeks anyway. I have never looked back, I love my gray hair and get lots of compliments on it.
10:21 AM on 05/28/2011
How about changing the black dye slowly to lighter shades as it grows out? At some point, I imagine you can then go for a bleaching/lightening rinse to even it out? I have no idea on how the chemical-based hair colors work, but the hennas give wonderful color transitions as they fade..
02:52 AM on 05/28/2011
"Just a little over 100 years ago, the average life expectancy was about age 48, so that women died before they had much white hair."

You've drawn a preposterous conclusion from that figure of average life expectancy at birth, Vivian Diller, Ph.D. Infant mortality was much higher 100 years ago, lowering the "average" figure, but lifespan for those who survived childhood was pretty much the same. Gray or white hair was in no way unknown. #knowyourmath
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hp blogger Vivian Diller, Ph.D.
Psychologist and author of "Face It: What Women Re
06:35 PM on 05/28/2011
Are you saying that if you take out infant mortality from life expectancy stats (or, in other words, if a person survived past the first year of life), life span was the same a 100 years ago? Please show me where you found that information, that men and women lived until age 78 in the early 1900s?
12:33 AM on 05/29/2011
Vivian, great writeup, but Grendelous is correct: the stats are skewed by high childhood mortality (not just "infant mortality," eg the first year of life, but throughout childhood), and also by the greater likelihood of dying at any age of now-curable diseases. That's precisely what skews the stats in the developing world today: lack of health care, not the fact that everyone dies at 31 (Swaziland) or 48 (South Africa) or 44 (Afghanistan) or 60 (Bangladesh).

Obviously men and women lived until age 78 in the early 1900s. And age 95. And age 32. And age 3. Just to be glib and quick here, the Victorian Age is called after a certain Queen Victoria (1819-1901). I'm sure you're right in saying that gray hair in women is seen as less attractive because it's associated with a lack of fertility, which is very likely hard wired and then perpetuated by culture. But except as a general reminder of mortality and loss of fertility (which it is now, too), it would have nothing to do with women vanishing from the scene at 48, before anyone saw the gray. (Cue Stephen Foster's "Old Folks at Home" ...)
06:10 AM on 05/29/2011
Vivian,

Before you make wild claims, just think anecdotally to test your figures: "threescore and ten" years of allotted lifespan has been a cultural meme for centuries; analogies between a lifetime and a single day, with the "evening" representing advanced old age, or the "December" of a year denoting the same. Think of the dreaded "change" of menopause, which you may be sure our generation did not invent. Old age pervades all of human history, reflected in art, literature, science and religion. Just a little common sense would make this obvious. We know today that our potential lifespan hasn't changed, but advances in health and standard of living have reduced infant and child mortality. Science takes human longevity as a starting point in trying to answer why we live so *long*:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grandmother_hypothesis

Here are some tables of life expectancy by age over several decades. Survive early childhood, and life expectancy at age ten is into the sixties, and so on:

http://www.infoplease.com/ipa/A0005140.html

"Innumeracy," as John Allen Paulos called it, is discouraging. Not even a quick back-of-the-envelope calculation, or the familiar idea of old age (bane of the human condition in song and story) stopped you from making a fundamental math error. You go on to essentially claim "old age was basically unknown prior to this century."

That's just mind-boggling. I'm kind of agog you asked me to cite a reference.
01:49 AM on 05/28/2011
What about the horrible effects these products have on our environment? This is not a problem to ignore.
In that vein, my wife's family is know for going grey early (as early as their late 20's). When I married her (she was 38, and regularly coloring her hair), I asked her to stop. As her beautiful salt and pepper hair comes in, she looks more natural (and sexy) than ever before.
Be who you are, and stop trying to be who society and the "suicide machine" want you to think you should be.
Kindness to all!
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Mischka Lauren
11:23 PM on 05/27/2011
My dad started going gray when he was sixteen. My mom was completely silver by 40, but she dyed it to within an inch of it's life until the day she passed away. I will be thirty in a couple months, and I am about 25% silver. I used to dye it often, but I've tired of it. I have a chunk of silver, almost like I highlighted it, on the left side in the front that people actually think is pretty cool. Will I dye my hair again? Yes. But I think I will quit completely by forty. If I take after my mom and am completely silver, then it will just be a waste of money. As it is, I have normally dark brown hair with a red tint and now shiny silver that is VERY difficult to keep colored.
08:51 PM on 05/27/2011
OK I'll come clean, I dye my hair and I wouldn't think of stopping. And I'm a guy. Frankly, a little gray is OK, but a full head of gray? Are you kidding? What sort of job will I get with a full head of gray hair especially these days? I'm only 47 and my trick is a great stylist and going highlighted with what my natural colors were, mixed in with a touch of gray. Yes it's a pain. Yes it costs money. No I have no regrets and, in fact, I joke about it to my friends. But it makes me more competitive in the job market, and I look old enough to hold a high level job, but young enough so that I don't appear to be over the hill. And I'll keep doing this until I'm probably 70 ;) I also get manicures. So there.
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Terri Lorz
10:28 AM on 05/27/2011
I want to go grey - but have colored my hair so long - not sure how to do it in a natural way. Terri Jo Lorz
12:20 PM on 05/27/2011
For inspiration, go to website Goinggraylookinggreat.com. It has stories of others who have done it, and all kinds of very helpful tips for transition to a glorious new, natural, you. I go to it all the time, especially when temptation to cave in and color arises, which it does occasionally. I love my hair natural, I feel more self assured, and real, too. And you'll have fun learning how wardrobe, and makeup can make you look wonderful, not at all washed out. Best of luck!
09:32 PM on 05/27/2011
I feel the same. I would like to stop dying my hair, but, whenever I see the gray coming out, I get scared, I think the gray hair might make me feel more depressed about aging, more difficult to find work, more difficult to find the right clothes.
Some women wear gray in a beautiful way but, for most of us, I think it makes us look "not well kept""