03/28/2008 02:45 am ET Updated Nov 17, 2011

Making The Case For Fritters

The rest of us might opt for soaking salt cod or deep-frying, but not both together. I am here to argue for doing more of the latter. All over the world, people eat fritters. Shrimp fritters, zucchini fritters, banana fritters, corn fritters. When Americans travel, we eat fritters. But then, for reasons I cannot understand, we don't make them back home.

It couldn't be that we're still afraid of fried foods: it's well known that if food is fried at a high enough temperature and then properly drained, it can contain no more cooking fat than something that's sautéed (people forget that with sautéed food, you eat the fat). And it couldn't be that the mess argument has won. Kitchens are nothing more than workshops.

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