What makes a morning drink? The category can be divided into two families: the nutritional and the effervescent -- these drinks either feed you or wake you up. The nutritional contain ingredients associated with breakfast, like eggs (the Ramos Gin Fizz), milk (Bourbon Milk Punch), coffee (Irish Coffee) or juice (the bloody mary). The wake-ups take on a dose of Champagne (the mimosa or French 75) or cava (used in Phil Ward's Agridulce Royale), or just plain seltzer (as in the Italian Fizz -- a Fernet-Branca and sweet vermouth mixture -- at Prime Meats in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn). Otherwise, said Ms. Reiner, daytime drinks veer toward "lighter liquors," like gin, or "lighter flavors," like lemon juice.