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10/12/2010 02:29 pm ET Updated May 25, 2011

Barramundi: The Anti-Salmon, A Fish We Can Finally Farm Without Guilt

What logical reason would anyone have for domesticating Atlantic salmon, a carnivorous fish that cruises the open oceans and needs to eat many times its own weight in smaller fish and marine animals? A tiger of the seas.

Joshua Goldman, working in the unlikely setting of a collection of warehouse-like buildings in an industrial park near an airport in Turners Falls, a village in western Massachusetts's Pioneer Valley, is attempting to undo fish farming's fundamental wrong turn. After raising striped bass in the 1990s, Goldman, who is the chief executive officer of Australis Aquaculture, began a three-year quest for a better fish.

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