09/13/2011 05:25 pm ET Updated Dec 06, 2017

Backstage Beauty: Midnight Blue Eyes & 'Sweet 16' Hair At Rodarte Spring 2012


The inspiration: "Starry Night" by Vincent van Gogh and "The Scream" by Edvard Munch

Makeup: "It's a dense, dark, midnight blue, circular, round eye," says James Kaliardos for NARS Cosmetics. "It was inspired by Vincent Van Gogh's 'Starry Night,' but it also looks a bit like Edvard Munch's 'The Scream.' We're in that era of painting." To create the dramatic eye look, he started with NARS Soft Touch Shadow Pencil, lining the upper and lower lids. He then layered on NARS eyeshadows in Night Flight (a deep navy) and Tropic (a gleamy turquoise). Skin was pretty and healthy-looking with a touch of blush in Penny Lane. This same shade, along with a light lavender eyeshadow (Pearl Beach) was patted on the lip. He finished by applying lipgloss to the center of the lips. "It's dreamy and aggressive at the same time," says Kaliardos. "It's a cool girl, but she's ethereal."

Hair: Kerastase lead stylist Odile Gilbert wanted the hair to be very soft: "Sweet 16 Hair," she says. "Very gentle, very easygoing." She started by working in Kerastase Volumactive Mousse to build texture. Gilbert then wrapped sections of hair around a large barreled curling iron, giving the models big, loose waves. She pulled strands from the front over to the side of the head, creating a rolled-over effect, then secured it with a small comb barrette underneath.

Nails: Deborah Lippmann created two shades for Rodarte this season: "Lady Sings the Blues," a very dark navy with chunks of graphite was applied to the fingers, and "Fashion" a neutral taupe for the toes. "They did not want the fingers and toes to match," says Lippmann. "The sisters were adamant about that."