01/04/2012 02:05 pm ET

Waffle House: The Great American Restaurant

Foodies active in the Twitterverse were amused, one recent night, to find myself and Andrew Knowlton, the restaurant editor of Bon Appetit, separately tweeting from Denny's and Waffle House, respectively. My reaction, once alerted to the fact, was neither surprise nor amusement. No, I was jealous. Knowlton had won. Denny's was just a weaker, better-furnished version of Waffle House. In fact, it occurred to me, every restaurant is in some way a paler approximation of Waffle House.

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