02/13/2012 04:19 pm ET Updated Dec 06, 2017

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Backstage Beauty At Rachel Roy

The Inspiration: Nature in its purest form

Beauty at Rachel Roy's fall 2012 show. Photo: Cindy Ord/Getty Images

Makeup: Cosmetics creator Bobbi Brown seemed right at home backstage at Rachel Roy's fall 2012 presentation as she was busy creating earthy-hued (and universally flattering) smokey eyes. She skipped the liner, and instead employed eyeshadow -- Caviar (earthy green) and Oyster (shimmering gold) -- to create the look. Brown's tip on getting sultry eye makeup right: "The trick is to layer the products and not blend. Women often make the mistake of trying to be a painter but it is so much easier if you start with a color that you can apply all over and then add as you go." Models' brows were kept natural and full (a la Margaux Hemingway) and Everything Mascara lengthened their lashes. Brown added a subtle flush to cheeks using her Pretty Pink Blush (available fall 2012) and finished with Latte Creamy Matte Lip Color (available fall 2012).

Hair: "I think what's great about Rachel is that she is a consummate professional," said celebrity stylist Ted Gibson. "I love the fact that she's adventurous and has a sense of matte fabrics, layers and colors especially with this particular collection which is about dirt. So what I wanted to do was create a girl from the '70s with very straight hair." Gibson spritzed on Build It to the models' hair before blow-drying. Next, he created a center part and bluntly trimmed the ends. Then he smoothed hair out with a flat iron and used Beautiful Hold hairspray to set the style. Gibson adds, "I tend to think that this is a lot sexier than hair that is romantic and full of waves... because romance is great, but good sex is better!"

Nails: Translating nature into a high-fashion manicure, Essie manicurist Ellie Gerstein's technique was all about layering and creating textures. For those models representing greenery, her team painted on one coat of Licorice (black) and then added two coats of Going Incognito (deep emerald) on top for a custom pine shade. The girls symbolizing soil wore Carry On (a rich burgundy). For those women that have been wearing the same red nail color forever (I'm looking at you, Stylelist associate editor Sarah St. Lifer), Gerstein has some spot-on advice: ease into deeper reds this fall by starting with a coat of Licorice. "I never let anyone dictate my personal style but it is important to remember polish is not permanent so have fun with it."


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