05/12/2012 02:41 pm ET Updated Jul 12, 2012

Jonathan Gold's Counter Intelligence: Umamicatessen In Downtown L.A. -

Everyone knows that Langer's serves the best pastrami sandwich in town. Guidebooks say so. National magazines say so. The subway disgorges so many Langer's-bound fressers that it has sometimes been called the Pastrami Express. Many of us think Langer's serves the best pastrami sandwiches in the United States and consider any variance from its formula to be something close to heresy.