In an increasingly casual world, there are still keepers of tradition and the high standards of fine dining. And few do it better than Tre Monti, the restaurant occupying the striking, sand-colored brick-and-stone building with the look of a European country estate, tucked away behind the more flamboyant, castle-like San Marino Club in Troy.
The club launched Tre Monti in 2008, lavishly investing some $4 million in the hopes of creating a signature destination restaurant. At first, it was designed to offer the cuisine of tiny San Marino, the sliver of a republic nestled amid the mountains of north-central Italy. Today, just one dish from that cuisine, lasagna verdi al forno — a 15-layer creation of fresh spinach pasta, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Bolognese sauce — remains on a bill of fare that’s become classically northern Italian.