For the second time in three years I spent a few days in Merida to visit my friend Lou who relocated there with his father to escape the costly living and cold climate of New Jersey. About an hour and a half flight across the Gulf from Houston, Merida is the largest city on the Yucatan Peninsula and one of the safest cities in Mexico. The region’s most popular tourist destinations, Chichen Itza and Cancun, are two to three hour drives. Although I didn’t experience either on this trip, I did enjoy tacos, tequila, an iguana, and a cenote.
Our first day was spent in Progreso, a long and narrow beach town on the Gulf of Mexico less than 30 minutes from Merida. Progreso is primarily a port city, and its claim to fame is the longest pier in the world. With its concrete base and roadway, the pier extends 4 miles over the very shallow shoreline to allow for the docking of large cargo and passenger vessels. For some great satellite pics and bird’s-eye views of the pier, visit AmusingPlanet.com. We were there on a day when a cruise ship from Texas had arrived so the beach was lined with hundreds of sun-worshipers and families playing in the sea.
Although Cancun is the most popular beach destination in southern Mexico, Progreso offers a more valuable and authentic experience for tourists. You won’t find any all-inclusive resorts or expensive restaurants, but there are still plenty of chairs and coconut-looking huts available for rent to make a day on the beach comfortable. We weren’t hassled by a bombardment of merchants peddling trinkets, however the experience wouldn’t be complete without at least one interesting encounter. A couple of guys initially wanted 40 pesos (about $2) for a photo opp with their pet iguana, but settled for two cold cans of Dos Equis from our cooler that cost 15 pesos each. It was by far the best bargain of the trip.
On day two Lou took me to Merida’s old city center known as Centro for tacos and tequila at one of his favorite spots. Among the narrow streets, hanging electricity wires, and dilapidated buildings there are several hidden gems that provide charming experiences including La Negrita Cantina. Upon entering through the street corner saloon doors, I was immediately immersed by the sound of live music reverberating from the back of the labyrinthine open-air setting packed with those looking to unwind on a Friday afternoon.
We were quickly seated in the spacious hallway that connects the front bar with the back bar and dining room. After scanning the menu I ordered a flight of mezcal to try out 3 different flavors for less than 100 pesos. To my surprise, the flight was served with orange slices, red salt, and a pile of dehydrated, vermilion grasshoppers!! The red salt is called sal de gusano (worm salt) and is made by grinding up toasted agave plant worm larvae with rock salt and dried chili peppers. Chasing the smoky mezcal shots with sal-sprinkled oranges was delightfully smooth and expectantly intoxicating. Good thing they provided an unlimited amount of complimentary tacos as I wasn’t brave enough to snack on the grasshoppers!
For our final day we ventured out to explore cenotes, subterranean water bodies exposed from the collapse of limestone bedrock weakened by many years of carbon dioxide mixing with rain. These natural swimming holes are filled with clear ground water, and can be either open-air craters or underground caves. There are more than 6000 cenotes in the Yucatan, some of which were used by the ancient Maya for sacrificial offerings.
About halfway between Merida and Cancun, and not far from Chichen Itza, is the village of Yokdzonot, home to one of the best examples of an open-air cenote. For 70 pesos you can enjoy the tranquility and wonder of this stunning natural preserve that looks like it could be a setting for an Indiana Jones movie. The swimming hole is 40 meters below the surface, and bounded by steep earthen walls with thick hanging roots that look like ropes. You can enjoy the views by either descending down the wooden stairs or by spanning it from above by zipline. Swimming in the water, looking up into the sky, and taking it all in was an incredible experience. A day trip to one of these natural marvels is an absolute must for anyone visiting the Yucatan.
