Talking About Fashion

It's hard to review collections seen two days ago, and already online on our site a few hours after the show has ended. I think that everybody talks about fashion, more or less appropriately, and that in any case they are entitled to make their comments and say what they like or not.

Talking about fashion, I like to think of those who actually create fashion, and not only of fashion as the result of a market research. Frankly speaking, today anyone can do a show and everybody believes they have a creative mind. But then you watch the show of Comme des Garçons and realize it conveys something indefinable -- something that encompasses art, fashion, experimentation and research. And it really makes you think. "It's not wearable," somebody will point out right away. Who said it's not? It depends on who and where, and they are unique pieces you may look at, just like when at school you attended a lecture and not everything was comprehensible right from the start. But then everything becomes clear. Sometimes you need time.

The obvious is easy, while some more obscure concepts are harder to absorb. Then, the next season you see on the catwalk suggestions based exactly on those colors patterns and shapes. All "humanized " and therefore wearable.

Some people want a sensuous, beautiful and "luxury" woman wearing embroidery and jewelry. So Alber Elbaz for Lanvin is definitely one of the fashion designers who propose this kind of style. His tenth anniversary was a celebration of shapes and colors, all already in his DNA, yet renewed and updated. And in the end, the real coup de theatre: He sang a song that summed up his expectations as a kid. "When I was just a little boy, I asked my mother what will I be? Will I be pretty? Will I be rich? Here's what she said to me: 'Que será será. Whatever will be, will be.'" Success. Well-deserved. He has the ability to create, invent, send down the runway dozens of girls dressed elegantly and colorfully and then also to be ironic, to smile and make people smile. Creative and media-friendly.

And then Phoebe Philo, in her last month of pregnancy, who did a very small show for just 20 people. Ample volumes for periwinkle coats and sweaters, and then leather and cotton and colored stripes on different materials. The example given by a woman expecting her third child who chose not to interrupt the course of her career, and almost frees herself in the research on volumes, making them lighter yet keeping the pureness of the cuts.

Talking about fashion, I cannot but mention London showrooms, where about 15 young fashion designers showcased their collections. Many of them showed surprising skills and quality of execution. Some of them are ready for the catwalk, such is the level of perfection as shown for instance by young designer Simone Rocha, who created for an ethereal woman, covered in embroideries and macramé and organza in total white. And many others you will find on the website in the Vogue Talents channel.

Talking about fashion, moreover, I think there's nothing more to say when you are watching a show that truly moves you. The emotions that one can convey through creativity, imagination, and the strength of a collection are worth a thousand words. The judgments or opinions on who would be the right designer for a given fashion house are pointless.

I often get the feeling there is too much talking going on and that we'd better reflect on what direction fashion is taking. Saying that everything is fashionable, like many do, is a too superficial statement. Fashion is beautiful because it changes all the time, giving to real creative minds the chance to express themselves. Leaving a mark is never easy, but also settling for anything without distinction is not constructive for anyone. Taking some risks when making choices is always stimulating.