08/07/2012 10:09 am ET Updated Dec 06, 2017

Chef Hora Fires Up Engine Co. No. 28 in Downtown Los Angeles

Pictured: Inside Engine Co. No. 28, a 1912 Firehouse turned restaurant (photo: M. Hall)

What do you get when you combine a renovated 1912 fire station with Chef Christopher Hora's unique sweet and savory fare? A winning combination that fits in beautifully with the renewal and renovation of downtown Los Angeles. This little gem of a restaurant was once a 1912 firehouse replete with fire engines, alarms  and a brass pole (see above) for fire fighters to slide down. Today the  historic setting at 644 Figueroa St. is home to the cuisine of  Chef Christopher Hora.  A graduate of the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco and native Californian, Chef Hora inherited his appreciation of fresh food and savory ingredients from his Italian mother and Czech Father when he was growing up.  That influence carries over to the hearty menu at Engine Co. No. 28.  The restaurant serves breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends as well as lunch and dinner.  There's also a well-priced happy hour for those working downtown looking for relief from office stress.  Other offerings to alleviate stress,  include a wine dinners and beer tastings.

Pictured: Cali Bennie, a delicious twist on eggs Benedict

I visited the restaurant for Sunday brunch to get a feel for Chef Hora's cooking skills prior to his two  appearances at this week's LA Food and Wine Fest.   Brunch is a new addition to the Engine Co. 28 menu, and the fare is literally both sweet and savory.  Dishes like the French toast with bourbon-soaked orange marmalade offer a new twist on traditional breakfast fare.  The dish is sweet but not too sweet,  with just the right subtle flavor from the orange complimenting the French toast.  

"I don't like anything to be too sweet," Chef Hora says. "If it's too sweet it just stays in the front of your month and you don't taste all the favors."   The Cali Bennie of smoked salmon, avocado, spinach, poached egg and sauce cherone is simply a revelation.  It's just the right twist on the more traditional eggs Benedict. The cherone sauce drizzled over this dish is more robust than a hollandaise. The sauce features hints of tomato, spice and shallots swimming in a rich sauce of egg yolks.  It's rich, but in no way overwhelming. A less subtle dish is the chicken and waffles served with a heavy sauce that updates southern "red-eye" gravy.  While the Cali Bennie tickles the taste buds with delicate flavor, the chicken and waffles is pure comfort food that assaults the mouth with a heavy cream sauce laden with bacon and hints of coffee.  It's delicious, but it's difficult to eat too much of it, at least in one sitting.   It goes without saying that you won't find this dish on any menu of recommended healthy diet foods.

Pictured: Delicious desserts on are the menu too.

Other menu highlights include sinful desserts, including Bananas Napoleon, cream pies and a rich cheesecake served with fresh fruit.  Brunch at Engine Co. No. 28 offers everything from porridge with toppings to omelets, plus bread and butter Pudding.  The simple menu doesn't prepare the visitor for the deliciousness of the dishes.  "Anything is good if you begin with great product and sound technique," Hora says.  His dishes are proof of his culinary talent for skillfully combining what might be considered unlikely ingredients.  An example of his creativity is the Hamachi Ceviche complemented with blood orange, grapefruit and cactus that he will be serving at the LA Food  and Wine Fest this week.

Pictured: Chef Christopher Hora

If you work in downtown Los Angeles, or you are going downtown for the theater or a sporting event, put Engine Co. No. 28 on your list.  Shuttle service to  the Ahamanson theater is offered and the Staples Center, Grammy Museum and LA Live are all within walking distance. Prices for Brunch start at $11 with bottomless mimosas and bloody marys (with the chef's own spicy mix) offered for $20.  There's nothing pretentious on the menu, just simple ingredients and delicious fare that's reasonably priced, served up in a historic setting.  Check out the slideshow below to see more of the history of Engine Co. No. 28 and more pictures of the dishes on its Sunday brunch menu.

Engine Co. No. 28