Montmartre is a neighborhood which, like all tourist centers, presents a challenge to anyone hoping to eat well. We can't help you avoid the pickpockets around the Sacré-Cœur, but we can help you bypass the tourist trap eateries.
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1. La Table d'Eugène - This back-of-the-hill bistro is packed with both locals and New York Times-reading gastronauts.
2. Le Bal Café - A great place to take little ones who can run around in the playground across the walkway while you drink a Pimm's cup and dig into some seriously good neo-British cooking at this café/exhibition space on a quiet impasse.
3. Chéri Bibi - This flea market-decorated joint is where you'll find the cheapest prices, the most traditional French cooking, and the youngest crowd. On the east side of the hill, toward Château Rouge.
5. Soul Kitchen - This cozy coffee shop run by the Anzel sisters has a limited menu of veggie centric dishes that change each day.
6. Le Petit Trianon - There's nothing groundbreaking about this neo-vintage café, except that some thought and effort has gone into the menu and product sourcing.
7. La Rallonge - A casual wine bar from Chef Geoffroy Maillard serving Spanish-ish small plates, just down the street from La Table d'Eugene. Don't miss the risotto--elbow noodles with a creamy truffled mushroom sauce and served in a tiny Staub casserole.
8. Le Petit Trianon - There's nothing groundbreaking about this neo-vintage café, except that some thought and effort has gone into the menu and product sourcing.
9. Le Relais Gascon - What people mean when they talk about "the big salad place." Pure sud-ouest kitsch.
10. Marcel - Join neighborhood families at this sunny corner spot for respectable Brit and American-inspired fare (fish and chips, a B.L.T.).
11. Coquelicot - One of several great bakeries on rue des Abbesses, you can take your sandwich or savory tarte sur place at this charmer.
12. Gontran Cherrier - Forget baguettes and go for Cherrier's squid-ink roll filled with gravlax, or a green arugula bun filled with seasonal vegetables. Or try one of his thin-crusted savory tarts.
Book A Few Days in Advance
13. Chamarré Montmartre - Antoine Heerah infuses haute French technique with flavors from his Ile-de-Maurice homeland. The terrace is where you want to be.
14. Le Coq Rico - Antoine Westermann's poultry-focused table gives new meaning to upscale barnyard cooking.
Book A Few Weeks in Advance
15. Guilo Guilo - Reserve well in advance for a seat at the counter where you can watch Kyoto chef Eichi Edakuni prepare a unique tasting menu of exquisite, modern Japanese cooking.
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