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But the clue was in the music: Gershwin's "Rhapsody in Blue," its jazzy whine heard throughout the show. There was very much an American aesthetic, country to city, running through the layers of prints and ginghams, the belted jackets over black suffragette skirts, the 1940s trousers, a slim sleeveless white tunic embroidered with leaves, the tops that resembled over-the-shoulder aprons, the soft little turbans, and a stunning pair of simple evening dresses done in a narrow red and white stripe. One could also see a black aesthetic and the look of country women in their everyday clothes, especially the sashed apron/work smocks worn with a metallic jacquard print skirt or a pair of wide 40s trousers. Nearly all the models wore slightly flattened hats (thanks to the milliner Stephen Jones), and the jewelry consisted of chunky bangles and bold, ornamental chain necklaces.
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