'Molecular Gastronomy' And The Art Of Eating In Spain

I am struggling with a spring fashioned from what appears to be a tight coil of wire, but which has been manufactured, surprisingly, from virgin olive oil. The waiter had been quite clear: stick your finger in the ring, then put it in your mouth. I did as I was told but instead of sliding on to my tongue the ring has congealed about my knuckle. This is the only thing I've ever eaten that involves sticking a finger down my throat.

Earlier, I reduced a delicate, tensile sculpture of beetroot ribbons to shrapnel on my plate. The other diners at my table at elBulli don't seem to be having the same difficulties. Beatific smiles cross their faces as the spring melts in the mouth, not on the hand. I should have been quicker and more decisive, like everyone else. Maybe I should have gone into training before eating at the world's most creative restaurant.

Keep reading the review of the innovative new Catalonian restaurant El Bulli.

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Read a review of El Bulli from the New York magazine art critic's perspective.

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Visit El Bulli's website.