The chef was in New York last Thursday to offer a pair of lunch seatings at Barbuto, the West Village restaurant helmed by Jonathan Waxman, the man who first brought California style cooking to New York with his restaurant Jams in the 1980s.
Fergus Henderson is the chef at St. John, generally regarded as one of the best restautants in England, and a place that daringly specializes in offal offerings. As a friend and I scanned the menu, we became excited at the list of appetizers, which constituted a Who's Who of Organs: There were marrow bones and tongues, kidneys and feet, tripe and eel pie.
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