José Andrés
spoke at Google's DC offices the other day and
in fascinating detail launched a defense and explanation of using
liquid nitrogen in cooking (as many food critics have taken to
questioning its presence in the kitchen).
Andrés makes his "Bleu Cheese with Almonds" dish in an
unconventional way. He starts by frying peeled whole almonds, then
adds water (a new thing called "H20," he says), and blends them to
make liquid almonds. He adds them to
a PacoJet
that turns the liquid almonds into a sorbet, or a chilled almond
paste. After adding cream to the mixture, he uses an immersion
blender to make a "cream of almond." Then the mad science starts
happening.
Andrés dips a small ladle into a pool of liquid nitrogen (at
negative 196 degrees) to cool it down. Then he dips the back of the
ladle into his cream of almonds, then back into the chilly pool to
separate the almond cup (that's taken the shape of the outside of
the ladle) from the ladle. The almond paste has turned from a
liquid into a solid cup, sort of like a small pastry shell (or in
the words of Andrés, "almond itself is asking, 'what is happening
to me?'"). He then fills the shell with a blend of bleu cheese and
cream that he puts into a canister that gets pumped with
nitrous-oxide. The mixture becomes mousse-like and ready to fill
the almond cups. He tops it with a small piece of passion fruit and
grated almonds.
Andrés also described his mentor's Ferran Adria's legendary liquid
olives preparation (18-minute mark), called "sphereification" or
"Esferificación" in Spanish. The technique, simultaneously being
developed by pharmaceutical companies under the name
"encapsulation," refers to encasing a liquid inside a solid shell
made of the same stuff. Andrés explained how he makes "mojitos" in
this way. He adds to the mojito mix alginate, a compound made
naturally in seaweed. That mixture gets put in a solution of salt
and the alginate gelatinizes, creating a self enclosed liquid. A
liquid mojito, then, rests inside of a shell of mojito. That
mixture can then be added to a canister that gets pumped with CO2
to become carbonic.
Also check out his hilarious explanation of super-cooling as it
relates to freezing a bottle of beer, and the wondrousness of ice
in your free...
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First Posted: 06-22-10 10:23 AM | Updated: 07-23-10 12:41 PM