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Vogue Italia's Oil Spill-Inspired Spread Stirs Muck


First Posted: 08/10/10 06:13 PM ET Updated: 05/25/11 06:20 PM ET

By LISA ORKIN EMMANUEL, AP

MIAMI -- The model is in black, prone and dirty on jagged rocks, netting draped around her legs like a dead sea creature.

There she is again, lying on her back in a feathered dress, and in close up, her hair and face sleek with oil.

A stirring photo spread in the August issue of Vogue Italia was inspired by the Gulf oil spill, leaving readers wondering if the magazine crossed from evocative to insensitive. Editor-in-Chief Franca Sozzani understands the debate stretching from blogosphere to beaches and said the motivation is straightforward.

"The message is to be careful about nature," she said by telephone from Milan, Italy. "Just to take care more about nature. ... I understand that it could be shocking to see and to look in this way these images."

The spread, featuring Kristen McMenamy, is titled "Water & Oil" and was shot in Los Angeles by a leading fashion photographer, Steven Meisel. In another of the photos, the gray-haired McMenamy is covered in oil, spitting up water while clutching her neck.

For pictures from the editorial click HERE.

"They are teasing BP. It doesn't offend me," said Lauren Crappel of Houma, La., as she slathered sunscreen on a child while unpacking her car in a Pensacola Beach parking lot.

Virginia Contreras of Navarre, Fla., said the photos were making light of the disaster. "I think they are making light of the oil spill. Everyone isn't going to the beaches and people have lost their jobs here because of the oil," she said.

Sozzani said the shoot reflects the magazine's effort to "find an idea that comes from real life. ... There is nothing political. There is nothing social. It's only visually. We gave a message but in a visual way."

Some bloggers weren't pleased. Dodai Stewart, deputy editor of Jezebel, called the spread inappropriate.

"I didn't feel it made a statement," she said in an interview. "I felt that they used the oil spill as a backdrop. There was one picture that had feathers. ... What makes a stronger statement about oil-slicked birds is an oil-slicked bird."

Miranda Lash, curator of modern and contemporary art at the New Orleans Museum of Art, said artists should be free to take on any topic.

"When I look at it, I feel pain. It evokes pain and a feeling of loss and sadness because this is going to hurt my region for a very long time," Lash said.

Beth Batton, curator of the permanent collection at the Mississippi Museum of Art in Jackson, Miss., said in an e-mail that the spread humanizes the condition of the Gulf coast animals and environment.

"Looking at Steven Meisel's photographs, you know something is terribly wrong because, as sensual as the images are, the human mind understands the toxicity of the oil that has coated model Kristen McMenamy's skin, hair, and feathery gloves," she said.

On Twitter, type in keywords Vogue Italia and you'll get various opinions.

Brandie Hopstein, who lives in New Orleans, tweeted about the shoot after seeing the photos days ago. "There is this oil spill going on. It's not going to be slipped under the rug," she said. "I happen to love the shoot."

Julie Urban of Doylestown, Pa., said it's too soon for photographs like these. "I was like, 'What?' I can't believe they did that and the pictures are really graphic," she said. "It's just people dying and choking. There's tar everywhere. It's really disturbing."

Angelia Levy of Silver Spring, Md., tweeted that the spread was "kind of iffy, but it's provocative." She said she wasn't offended, and questions whether an American magazine would have run it.

"There is no way that would go down," Levy said. "It seems distant for them so they can afford to have models rolling around in oil."

Associated Press Writer Melissa Nelson in Pensacola, Fla., also contributed to this report.

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By LISA ORKIN EMMANUEL, AP MIAMI -- The model is in black, prone and dirty on jagged rocks, netting draped around her legs like a dead sea creature. There she is again, lying on her back in a fe...
By LISA ORKIN EMMANUEL, AP MIAMI -- The model is in black, prone and dirty on jagged rocks, netting draped around her legs like a dead sea creature. There she is again, lying on her back in a fe...
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MetrointheWoods
08:24 PM on 08/12/2010
I think it's a powerful message designed to engage people who wouldn't normally engage on an issue such as oil and its extraction. It's not tasteful because it's not supposed to be. Well done!
02:09 PM on 08/11/2010
I for one don't see what all the backlash is about it's truly what is going on in the gulf and any way to get out the message of what has happened out there is perfect people don't usually want to see the truth and are very guarded and I toast to Vogue Italy and Steven Meisel for doing this check out the whole editorial below!!!

http://www.imageamplified.com/2010/08/vogue-italia-kristen-mcmenamy-in-water-oil-by-steven-meisel-image-amplified-august-2010-karl-templer.html
11:19 AM on 08/11/2010
The images express the truth of what we as humans are doing to ourselves. The images of birds and fish awash in oil is touching and tragic but most of us are unaware of the fact that we too are awash in that nasty toxic stuff. We here in the United States have been lucky, the oil spills have so far only affected animals, the moment it start affecting our land and our children is the moment we will become proactive in finding a cleaner energy source. The same can be said about the coal industry, since 1907 there has been approximately 25 coal mining accidents in the USA alone killing well over two thousand people, the effect on the environment is untold but we don't care. The day after the funeral for those killed, we go about our buisness burning electricity without thought yet complain about the cost.
Maybe if we had more pictures expressing the human toll our greed takes, maybe we will stop burying our heads in the sand look up and see what we're doing and change our ways. A magazine spread is a great medium to express this because most Americans regard Museums and art as elitist and boring...good for Vogue Italia. I hope more magazines will do articles to expose what is happening to our world.
10:12 AM on 08/11/2010
I just thought the spread was really stupid. Bad concept, bad execution. It did nothing to change my opinion that fashion people are living in their own reality bubble where somehow pouring oil on a $5K dress makes a 'statement' about a disaster. And I think that Sozzani is being disingenuous above when she says the motivation for the spread was to send a message is to be careful about nature. We all know the motivation was to cause a stir and get attention. This stunt was every bit as stupid as the magazine that photographed fashion in a concentration camp, or the dumb Rodarte girls trying to cash in on the "artistic inspiration" of bloody mass murders in Juarez.
11:52 AM on 08/11/2010
I really like this review of the complexities of the Rodarte/MAC mistake: http://www.nbcnewyork.com/blogs/threadny/THREAD-Daily-Context-MAC--Rodartes-Juarez-Collab-Sparks-Controversy-98745194.html

I don't agree that the oil spill can be compared to shooting an editorial in a concentration camp. Commenting on the destruction of the environment is much easier and safer than engaging atrocities for fashionable purposes -- which I can't really see working in almost any case...unless maybe it's the battle of Agincourt or like...what?

Also the dress is a sample, it serves its purpose by being in the shoot, so it's fulfilled it's purpose completely and there is nothing wasteful about covering it in any material, whether sea water and sand, or crude oil.

Maybe the motivation was twofold: engage discussion about the environment, draw attention to the magazine--who cares if it causes a stir and was created partially for that purpose? Should the magazine present editorials that exist in a bubble? I personally don't think so.
05:00 PM on 08/11/2010
You are entitled to your opinion, but you have not changed mine. Attaching fashion, a fun but fluffy pursuit, to a tragedy like the oil spill is just tone-deaf, at least in the way that this publication did it. That's why I compared it to the concentration camp spread that caused such a stir last year. Both spreads trivialize these abject man-made horrors and exploit them as a mere backdrop or conceptual setpiece with which to sell overpriced merchandise. That's why the Rodarte fiasco backfired so badly - they tried to be 'edgy' by selling a fashion product via associating it with violence, but they badly underestimated how upsetting that would be to many people, because they are so out of touch.
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KristaPeck
04:01 AM on 08/11/2010
I see it as a powerful social statement & blogged my thoughts. Having lived on the Gulf Coast for nearly 10 years, it's particularly heartbreaking after knowing the beauty of those white sand beaches. People are talking...no matter what they think of the spread, I think that in itself is important.
02:29 AM on 08/11/2010
SAD reality!!!
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MetrointheWoods
08:23 PM on 08/12/2010
I am #2! F&F
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Alice Radley
Post hoc ergo propter hoc
09:15 PM on 08/10/2010
Politics and issues aside, she is so lovely. Plus, she's striking a blow for women with grey hair. As a young lady with increasingly salty hair, I approve.
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07:06 PM on 08/10/2010
I think its a good statement on how the BP oil spill and the criminal neglect of BP and ALL the oil companies safety incompetence has resulted in the once beautiful gulf area now turned into a sewer..Trashing beauty is my choice for title.