Frank Bruni On LA Dining: 'A City In Unrivaled Tune With The Restaurant Times'

Uncommonly ambitious cooking in unconventionally blunt, humble, even improvised contexts: if a single theme captures the arc and essence of dining out in America right now, that's it. And if you had to pick a single place to study and savor it, you could do no better than L.A., a city in unrivaled tune with the restaurant times. This is where food trucks, like the popular Flying Pig, with elaborately plated ethnic specialties -- and with Twitter feeds that update their changing locations -- roared to gastronomic acclaim before many other cities dispatched or embraced their own. Where Americans' increasingly fetishistic obsession with the simple (or not so simple) hamburger takes especially creative, thoughtful form. And where you can enjoy some of the best ceviche of your life within a few dozen feet of someone getting his hard drive recovered.

Read more on nytimes.com