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Bike Maintenance: How To Do It Yourself (PHOTOS)

First Posted: 12/07/10 09:13 AM ET   Updated: 05/25/11 07:15 PM ET

From Bicycling Magazine:

Whether you ride a multi-thousand-dollar road machine or a 20-year-old beater bike from your basement, proper maintenance is essential to ensure a safe and comfortable ride. Complete this easy-to-follow checklist every one to two months to keep your bike running smooth.

Inspect Your Frame For Cracks
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Cracks usually occur near welded areas, or where the frame is butted. Probably the most common spot is the underside of the down tube, just below the head tube. On carbon frames, it can be difficult to tell if you’re looking at a scratch in the clearcoat or a crack in the frame. If your fingernail can catch on the blemish, it might be a crack. If you have your suspicions, go to the shop.

RELATED LINKS:
6 Ways to Maintain Your Frame
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From Bicycling Magazine: Whether you ride a multi-thousand-dollar road machine or a 20-year-old beater bike from your basement, proper maintenance is essential to ensure a safe and comfortable ride...
From Bicycling Magazine: Whether you ride a multi-thousand-dollar road machine or a 20-year-old beater bike from your basement, proper maintenance is essential to ensure a safe and comfortable ride...
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Syrlinus
09:42 PM on 12/07/2010
As someone who does long distance bicycle touring, these are all great along with one good tune-up by the local shop before you do major endeavors (e.g., century rides or long distance touring attempts).

I personally prefer Adventure Cyclist as a magazine although Bicycling has some nice "newb" articles now and again.
04:44 PM on 12/07/2010
This morning on one of the Europeon TV ( Euronews, DW TV) stations they were talking about a neck pad that inflates like an air bag to protect you neck and head in an accident. Looks like it could work...when they get the bugs worked out.
02:45 PM on 12/07/2010
I hate working on the bike, but it is a necessity if you like to ride.
A good clean and then oiled drive train runs so nice and is worth the time and effort.

Keep your tires fresh, more expensive tires I’ve found to wear better but inexpensive tires do the job just fine until they need to be replaced (and/or rotated).


Watch out for cars!
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just another frog
02:24 PM on 12/08/2010
good point on tire rotation. The rear wears down much faster, and will need repacing much sooner. Buy the time the second rear is replaced - the front is still relarive good BUT has started to split and crack. Now if i will only follow my own advice - rotate tires 12 months.
-v
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AG creative
Ba Gawk!
02:30 PM on 12/07/2010
MOST IMPORTANTLY... lube your chain!
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just another frog
02:51 PM on 12/07/2010
I say allways check tire pressure (by squeezing by hand) before any ride. The chain can go some time before needing anything.
-v
04:51 PM on 12/07/2010
Well when its 10 degrees like it is today in Minnesota lubing the chain only cakes more crud on the chain.
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ericmiami
Liberal with a CCW
01:58 PM on 12/07/2010
I'm real pleased with the Park Tool Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair.
I'm also real pleased to have become a recumbent rider. My wife and I each have a Burley.
01:58 PM on 12/07/2010
Owning a bike for transportation is really discouraging if you don't know how to fix it yourself. Don't be afraid to get greasy, and don't be afraid that you'll ruin something. If you are careful not to strip any threads or round any nuts, there is little you can injure on your bike just by wrenching it a bit. You'll be really proud after your first hub overhaul :) Just look online for the how to.

A tip that I would add is to keep a 6" adjustable wrench in your backpack. Sometimes after working on a bike, one or two things could be out of adjustment, but hard to notice on the stand. If a brake is rubbing the rim, or the seatpost is twisting on you, you'll be happy you brought it.
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yakmeat
My bank account is emptier than my micro-bio.
12:26 PM on 12/07/2010
Some good general tips here. There are two technologies which have become quite common on bikes (especially mountain bikes) that were not addressed. I'd add:

#10. Disc brakes - check the pads and discs regularly for excessive wear. With their aggressive pads and high pressures (especially with hydraulics) these can wear out much faster than conventional rim brakes, especially under lots of downhill use. You'll miss them (and that corner) when they're gone!

11. Suspension components - keep shocks clean and check for smooth operation and range of travel. Look for signs of damage to the stanchion tubes. Keep in mind that often damages to these comes not from a crash, but from improper transport/storage of the bike. Neglecting suspension parts can necessitate costly replacement.

Just my $0.02 worth...
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just another frog
12:13 PM on 12/07/2010
who reads bicycling nowadays? It is geared to high end carbon bikes for racer or racer wanabies. There is allmost nothing for the average rider or cyclotourist. And just forget about folding, recumbent, three wheelers, or single speed bikes.....
-v
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Josephus
12:52 PM on 12/07/2010
True. While more of us baby boomers switch to recumbents due to ejaculating blood, bad backs, sore necks, pained wrists, etc. from years of riding "wedgies", the industry is continuing to ignore the shift. Even Lance has stated that if the rules are changed so that he can ride a "bent" in races he would make the switch.
01:59 PM on 12/07/2010
ouch
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just another frog
02:54 PM on 12/07/2010
yes - recumbents! I love mine (SWB). No neck issues, no hand issues, no crotch issues, no back issues, no - did I memtion crotch issues?
-v
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10:46 AM on 12/07/2010
"Clean your chain":
At the end of each ride or day of rides:
1. Spray a degreaser on the chain (cycle the peddles while spraying the chain going around the back gears).
2. Wipe off the degreaser with a clean cloth or towel.
3. Apply chain oil in the same way. Use only proper chain oil from a bike shop.
This will keep the chain very clean indeed.
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BonzaSheila
Having a good time with HOUSE MUSIC
11:55 AM on 12/07/2010
What oil do you use? I just use White Lightning unless it's being serviced.
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12:05 PM on 12/07/2010
I like Pedro's Dry.

Problem with spraying on a degreaser and wiping it off is that you don't remove it from the pins.

Every couple of weeks I remove the chain, soak it in a citrus degreaser (or camp stove fuel which REALLY removes stuff) and then use an air compressor to blast out the metal dust. Not an option for everyone, but you really should remove the chain in order to really get it clean.
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yakmeat
My bank account is emptier than my micro-bio.
12:11 PM on 12/07/2010
Pedro's.
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just another frog
12:05 PM on 12/07/2010
everyride? I have better things to do with my time. Use a dry lube - it will not attract dirt. For me its a few weeks worth of rides before any cleaning or lube. But then I am not going in mud/rain.
-v
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01:26 PM on 12/07/2010
Takes all of 2 minutes start to finish.