Carrots

Carrots

Before most self-respecting Americans had ever heard of celeriac or jícama, carrots were practically the only root vegetable in town. They could be eaten raw or cooked until mushy. They were delightfully sweet in flavor and kept in the fridge for weeks. People liked them, and we still like them, even though we now have access to other more exotic root vegetables. Carrots are inexpensive, reliable, and versatile enough that almost everyone enjoys at least one carrot dish or another.

The carrots we find at the grocery store are almost invariably orange and, these days, cut into unattractive thumb-shaped nubbins labeled "baby carrots." Buying these is a mistake, since they're often made from sub-par larger carrots; they have no flavor to begin with, and they dry out quickly. If you want carrot sticks to snack on, you're much better off taking a few extra minutes to peel larger carrots and cut them into sticks at home. (You can store these in water in the refrigerator to extend their shelf life.)

Real baby carrots -- immature roots that look like miniature versions of regular-sized carrots -- are hard to find but deliciously sweet and delicate; they can be eaten and cooked whole (you don't even have to peel them). And other varieties of carrots -- purple, red, or even white ones -- taste quite a bit like their orange relatives but are a fun change of pace. (Kids love them.)

Whatever kind of carrots you're buying, make sure they're hard and crunchy -- flaccid carrots are good for absolutely nothing. If they have their greens attached, remove these before you store the carrots, or else they'll pull water and vitamins out of the roots and make the carrots go bad more quickly. If they're relatively fresh when you buy them, and if you keep them loosely covered in the refrigerator, carrots will stay good for weeks.
Once you start cooking with them, though, you'll find lots of ways to get through that bag before they go bad. Carrots aren't just fodder for sticks. Glazed carrots, for example, rather than being outmoded, are a treat: Cut some carrots into coins, put them in a saucepan with butter and just enough water to come an inch or two up the side of the pan, cover, and simmer for fifteen minutes or so. When the carrots are tender, remove the lid and let any remaining liquid boil away; you'll be left with a rich, shiny glaze coating the carrots. The carrots have more than enough backbone to make this simple dish plenty likeable.

And carrots play well with other ingredients. I especially love the comforting combination of sweet, starchy carrots and savory, meaty beef, which come together to make a hearty stew that's perfect for cool autumn nights. Carrots taste great with Asian seasonings, too, and they're fabulous mixed with celery and tossed with soy sauce and sesame oil for an unexpected appetizer, salad, or side dish.

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