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Sami Herders: National Geographic Looks At Life With Reindeer

First Posted: 11/26/11 09:14 AM ET   Updated: 11/28/11 07:16 AM ET

Ready for the holiday season? In the far, far north, where the sun doesn't set for weeks, Sami reindeer herders are zipping around on ATVs and snowmobiles moving herds of reindeer around their winter grazing grounds.

From Jessica Benko's report:

Two hundred miles north of the Arctic Circle, near the jagged tips of Norway's crown, the sun does not set for weeks on end during the summer months, and the midnight sun bounces off fields of midsummer snow. The solstice comes and goes, but the Sami reindeer herders are too busy to pay much attention. "We're always in the middle of calf marking at this time," Ingrid Gaup says, referring to the yearly ritual in which the herding families carve their ancient marks into the ears of the new calves. In the Sami's homeland, spread across northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia, the notion of time is untethered from the cycles of the sun and is yoked instead to something far more important: the movement of the reindeer.

Sami herders call their work boazovázzi, which translates as "reindeer walker," and that's exactly what herders once did, following the fast-paced animals on foot or wooden skis as they sought out the best grazing grounds over hundreds of miles of terrain. Times have changed. Herders are now assigned to specific parcels of the reindeer's traditional grazing territories at designated times of the year. To make the lifestyle tenable, herders need expensive all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) and snowmobiles to maintain hundreds of miles of fences between territories and move large herds in accordance with land-use regulations—even when they clash with the instincts of the reindeer. As Ingrid's husband, Nils Peder Gaup, explains, "Reindeer think with the nose, not the eyes. They go with the wind."

The full article by Jessica Benko appears in the November 2011 issue of National Geographic magazine, on newsstands now.

See the full gallery by photographer Erika Larsen here.

Below, see stunning, wintery photos of life with reindeer:

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Editor's note: A previous version of this article incorrectly identified the author as Cynthia Gorney. The full article, available here, is by Jessica Benko.

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01:34 PM on 11/30/2011
Santa does not have a monopoly.
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saami
Cranky old lady
12:52 PM on 11/28/2011
My grandmother was Saami and her people were reindeer herders or the people of the 8 seasons. We have a rich heritage and had had to struggle to maintain it despite the Swedes, Norwegians, Finns and Russians efforts to eliminate it. Saami are peaceful people who have had no wars and no kings or rulers. We are the aboriginal peoples of Scandinavia.
12:21 PM on 11/27/2011
It was refreshing even to read this brief article without an article within it claiming the destruction of harvesting these reindeer due to global warming. I'm almost sure upon the first sign of a poor harvest or reduction in numbers for whatever reason this as well will warrant the all watchful eye of the GW conspiratists..
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osofar
America once was Exceptional
08:18 AM on 11/27/2011
In Davis, California there are many Sami people. Perhaps you have herd of them...Sami Davis...
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saami
Cranky old lady
12:52 PM on 11/28/2011
Dumb comment
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
karen lyons kalmenson
i poem/paint, sometimes, i ain't
06:30 AM on 11/27/2011
very cool critters in a very cold climate
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MichaelMcKLA
I'm moving to Pandora.
02:11 AM on 11/27/2011
Ever since I was 5, I have wondered how reindeer fly. Is it the snow? I've heard some guys say snow sent them flying. But I don't know that first hand, since I'm in Los Angeles, and all.

;)
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tector
My own opinion is enough for me...c. hitchens
12:34 AM on 11/27/2011
one of the many good things about living in norway was christmas. lasts for three days and one of the big treats is one of your relatives at least will have reindeer in cream sauce at dinner, at least when i lived there. really a treat.
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henrypapillon
Mitt--free up the last 9 years' taxes
11:44 PM on 11/26/2011
I read this article. These people live a very different and in ways rough life, but in ways a life that is rewarding in ways no others can enjoy.
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Lou Allin
Lou is the author of two series of mystery novels
11:08 PM on 11/26/2011
Bless these people. They have it all. Even kitchen cabinets like mine, and I'm on Vancouver Island. They're not pepper spraying each other on Black Friday. I hoope we stop polluting their earth. The world needs more Samis.
08:28 AM on 12/01/2011
They also drive vintage Caddies http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjtLSU0I5R0&feature=related and make same kind of music as Native Americans http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fn6I0Byg83M
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BannedInBoston
Everyone is entitled to my opinion.
11:05 PM on 11/26/2011
Rudolph the red-nosed reindeer herdsman. (Brrrrrrrrrr!...)
10:25 PM on 11/26/2011
have you ever seen them cross the waters for new grazing..a sight to behold...
07:56 PM on 11/26/2011
My family is from Lapland on my Mother's side. They are a unique group. My Father's side is from Iceland. I won't even get into that............:)
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saami
Cranky old lady
12:54 PM on 11/28/2011
Lap and Lapland are derogatory words; sort of like calling Saami the "N" word. Saami do not call themselves Laps.
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jebli
Another micro-bio!
07:28 PM on 11/26/2011
Why do parents let their kids sit on a stranger lap so called "Santa", it's just beyond any comprehension?
07:09 PM on 11/26/2011
Reindeer meat -- roasts, not sausage -- beats moose, caribou, elk, beef, pork -- you name it. Unfortunately it's next to impossible to purchase it in the USA.
08:17 PM on 11/26/2011
Reindeer is caribou
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
MoreDimensions
11:35 PM on 11/26/2011
A type of Caribou yes, but these are a very different subspecies from what we have in our western states.
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henrypapillon
Mitt--free up the last 9 years' taxes
11:48 PM on 11/26/2011
Tell that to Santa.
08:35 PM on 11/26/2011
I had reindeer a few times when working in the nordic countries. Used to freak out my American co-workers by telling them I am eating Rudolf.
11:02 PM on 11/26/2011
No offense to you for eating reindeer but isn't it very tough meat to chew? I've eaten White tail deer venison which is similar to beef only venison flavor and very lean compared to beef.
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Hazelnut
Dogs rule!
07:03 PM on 11/26/2011
I've read a little and seen photos of the Sami herders elsewhere--always fascinating.