I was sitting in an excessively hip bar in Kreuzberg, Berlin when I turned to my neighbor for conversation. Another American woman. Over our glasses of spritz (white wine and seltzer), we exchanged the usual remarks -- where we were going, where we'd been. I told her I was on a year-long sabbatical from college and spending the final months of my "world tour" in Europe.
"You're traveling by train?" It was more statement than question.
"Well, since Croatia I've been hitchhiking."
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