iPhone app iPad app Android phone app Android tablet app More

Featuring fresh takes and real-time analysis from HuffPost's signature lineup of contributors
Menuism

GET UPDATES FROM Menuism
 

Italian Food Culture 101: A Primer

Posted: 06/08/2012 8:46 am

by Marla Gulley, Italian Cuisine Expert for the Menuism Italian Food Blog

When you think about Italian food, the first foods that spring to mind might be pizza, pasta, Parmesan, or gelato, coffee and maybe even bread and olive oil. You certainly wouldn't be wrong. However, the long list of Italian food stretches far beyond these particular boundaries to include risotto, polenta, fish and meats, along with copious varieties of salami, cured meats and cheeses, with vegetables certainly not forgotten. When you step off the plane with phrase book clutched tightly in hand, Italian cuisine and culture may reveal a few startling surprises. What we Americans know and love in the US as classic Italian food is not necessarily what you find being served in Italy. I am of the opinion that there is no such thing as "wrong"; it's just that these "classic" dishes have evolved and transformed themselves to local ingredients and tastes, some not even originating in Italy.

Take Caesar salad. This dish's origins are in dispute, although it seems to have been created by an immigrant Italian restaurateur with restaurants in Mexico and the U.S. Although Caesar salad uses classic Italian ingredients, you won't be finding it on any menu in Italy.

Keep in mind that Italy has, just this past year, celebrated 150 years of united togetherness. Italians tend to identify themselves first from their region before identifying themselves as Italians. Americans, used to eating the wide range of Italy's national cuisine, will be surprised at how very regional Italian cuisine can be. Finding particular dishes and ingredients that one thinks of as being quintessentially Italian, may be extremely challenging because they may actually be quintessentially Sicilian, Roman, Tuscan, Sardinian, Piemontese and so on, and thus not offered where you happen to be dining.

What unites Italians, north and south, is a passion for genuine food, simply prepared, allowing the natural flavor to shine through. Emphasis is on quality, not quantity, with the focus on balancing flavors to harmonize or contrast as desired.

There are some differences that might surprise you.

On that note, I will leave you to digest my initial musings on Italian food culture and encourage you to join me again in the weeks to come, as we explore the richly varied mosaic that is the cuisine of Italy.

Food And Drink Temperature
1  of  9
PLAY
FULLSCREEN
ZOOM
SHARE THIS SLIDE 
Food and drinks are normally served close to ambient temperatures. It is a common Italian belief that consuming extremely hot or cold food does not aid digestion, and Italians are all about digestion. Ice is not common, and water is seldom served from the tap, even though 95% of Italy's tap water is quite safe to drink. Italians like their bottled water with and without gas.

Photo by Flickr user Andreas Hartmann.
RATE IT!   |  
VOTE
CURRENT TOP 5 PICK YOUR OWN TOP 5
USERS WHO VOTED
NEW! CREATE YOUR OWN SLIDESHOW

Related Links from the Menuism Italian Food Blog:
• The History of the Pizza
• 10 Things to Know About Pasta
• 10 Things to Know About Olive Oil

Marla Gulley Roncaglia is an American expat living in the Italian Alps. Marla is an accomplished pastry chef, and a master at high-altitude baking. She and her husband Fabrizio (who has also worked as a chef) run a bed and breakfast named Bella Baita ("beautiful mountain house"), where they are active supporters of the slow food movement.

 

Follow Menuism on Twitter: www.twitter.com/menuism

by Marla Gulley, Italian Cuisine Expert for the Menuism Italian Food Blog When you think about Italian food, the first foods that spring to mind might be pizza, pasta, Parmesan, or gelato, coffee a...
by Marla Gulley, Italian Cuisine Expert for the Menuism Italian Food Blog When you think about Italian food, the first foods that spring to mind might be pizza, pasta, Parmesan, or gelato, coffee a...
 
 
  • Comments
  • 69
  • Pending Comments
  • 0
  • View FAQ
Comments are closed for this entry
View All
Favorites
Recency  | 
Popularity
Page: 1 2  Next ›  Last »  (2 total)
09:36 PM on 06/10/2012
For the life of me, when I was in Italy in the Early seventies I can't even recall a place in Naples (our home port away from home) that served pizza. I remember eating lots of pasta, salads, meats and fish. But cannot remember eating one slice of Pizza. However the pastries were to die for. I had a very hard time passing a shop without trying at least one item.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
08:18 PM on 06/10/2012
"How Italian Food Is Different in Italy"

Let mr guess. It's not cooked by Mexicans!
08:17 PM on 06/10/2012
I must admit before reading your notes (above) I had a smirk on my face. I figured another American thinking they know Italian cooking and prep. I must admit I was surprised on the accuracy. My mother was born In Grummo (Bari) and we have family all over Italy. We travel there often. A little side note some may not be aware of. Each region has their own bread. We purchased bread from Fabriano and took it to Roccavivara, My Zia smelled the bread and tasted it..made a face and asked "Where did you get this bread? it's not from here" In Fabriano they don't put salt in the bread. I do have a major peeve, In America why do the restaurants RUIN the sauce by making it so sweet?? putting sugar in the sauce?? Silly Americans playing at italian.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
kaymettee
12:24 AM on 06/11/2012
venusb.......I use the sugar in my sauce because i use canned tomatoes and they are more acidic so a little sugar takes the acid from it. Fresh tomatoes don't seem to have that problem. I don't think we're playing at being Italian, we're pretty much happy with what we are. You may say we enjoy Italian food.

stuff
08:05 PM on 06/10/2012
Keep in mind that Southern Italy can have very different foods from Northern Italy. The South tends to have the foods that most people think of when they think of Italian food. The north is a little more like the rest of Europe and is a little less rich.
Kali03
I am an Obama supporter
10:11 PM on 06/10/2012
Napolitano food is what seems to have gotten (poorly translated) into Italian food in America.

Sicilian food, on the other hand, is delicious.
06:56 PM on 06/10/2012
My visit to Italy was a amazing. Landed in Rome, and was heart broken to see almost every building front splattered with graffiti.
The food was the most disappointing. The hard crusty dried small slices of bread topped with chopped tomatoes and olive oil just didn't cut it for me.
Florence and Venice were the same. However, I discovered Taramasu! I would have starved to death having experienced some really bad food. It looked good, I was starving, so I gave it a try & it was the most delicous thing I have ever eaten. I've ordered it here in the US and it doesn't hold a candle to the way the Italians make it. I couldn't wait to try the spaghetti and it came up as fast as it went down when I noticed after my first big bite that there were octupus in the spaghetti.
AND LOTS OF THEM.
We were served course after course of pastas, served by our waiter from a huge bowl and thrown onto our plates, not spooned, actually thrown onto our plates.
Many courses but all tasted the same!! Wine, wine and more wine and I'm not a lover of bitter wine (sorry) so I ordered a beer! Yum warm beer, just not what I was expecting. I would have paid 10.00 for a cold glass of American beer. Would I tour Italy again? In a heart beat.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
kaymettee
12:37 AM on 06/11/2012
rainy.......Why?

stuff
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
BIGBADWOOF
06:53 PM on 06/10/2012
Italian cooking is both simple and imaginative at the same time. The freshest ingredients served with flair. No wonder the French based much of their cuisine on that of Italy.
Mama Leone's in New York was the evil stepmother of The Olive Garden -- bad food served to people who didn't know the difference.
08:16 AM on 06/11/2012
Of course, we can't really blame restaurants when all they're doing is giving customers what they want. You want a more authentically Italian restaurant? You need customers who demand and expect more authentic food. To Olive Garden's credit, they have TRIED to diversify their menu with more genuinely Italian offerings, but discovered in surveys that their customers found capers to be "too unexpected", thought pesto was "too green", actually PREFER their pasta to be mushy rather than al dente, objected to red wine marinara sauce, and when they tried offering a pear and Gorgonzola ravioli with shrimp, that apparently went too far, and it totally flopped, and they had to soften the impact of such a scary concept as "gnocchi" by referring to them as "dumplings" and putting them in chicken soup, of all things. Diners considered the "Seafood Cioppino" (which isn't even from Italy - it was invented in San Francisco) to be "adventurous" simply because it lacked the requisite pasta and cheese. So instead, we get such thoroughly American inventions as caesar salad, chicken alfredo, thick crust "pizza", spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parmesan, cheese on seafood dishes, and so on. The bottom line is, people who are knowledgeable about and seek out authentic Italian food don't go to Olive Garden, and people who do go there either don't care whether it's authentic, or else are insufficiently knowledgeable to question Olive Garden's claim to offer "a genuine Italian dining experience".
08:53 AM on 06/11/2012
I have to add that the question of authenticity and the question of quality are not necessarily related. You can make a genuinely authentic Italian dish and completely screw it up, and you can make an Italian-inspired dish of American origin, like chicken alfredo or deep dish pizza, that's totally to die for. If a particular example of chicken alfredo is bad, it's not bad because it's not genuinely Italian; it's bad because you overcooked the chicken and used a gloppy prepared alfredo sauce out of a bag or a #10 can.

I do think that there are some aspects of the traditional Italian food culture - such as the emphasis on fresh, high quality ingredients, the love of good food in general, preparing dishes so that individual flavors really stand out, and so on - that we can say are objectively better than much of what characterizes the food culture of America, at least for much of the 20th century. But this generalization can be taken only just so far. Italians obviously don't have unanimously refined taste, or else the Slow Food movement would not have evolved in Italy specifically in reaction to the enormous popularity of McDonald's over there, and parliamentarians in Rome would not have had to lobby vigorously to keep Pizza Hut out of their country.

I mention these issues because I often detect in these discussions a fair amount of American self-loathing and over-idealization of Western Europe as some sort of culinary Holy Land.
06:51 PM on 06/10/2012
I was raised on homemade Italian food with my mother and grandmother's homegrown or farm-picked vegetables and homemade breads, pasta and pizza, and homecured meats. What is called "Italian" food in restaurants in the US is an insult. Once you've had a true Italian meal or experienced a pizza not dripping in fat, low-quality "cheese" (nothing like a good mozzarella di bufala), and too much sauce loaded with way too much oregano, you will be hard put to find much in the US that is acceptable. Imagine my horror when I saw an Italian sub on a menu that had ham, salami and capiccola listed as ingredients, only to find out they'd had to discontinue using the capiccola because the locals didn't know what it was. Since they also didn't know what mortadella is, they substituted--I hate to even type it--balogna!!! Makes me want to experience real Mexican, French, Japanese, Morrocan, and other types of cuisine as the people of those countries prepare it at home, not altered (bastardized) to suit the American palate. Taste American cheese. Taste European cheeses. Point made.
08:20 PM on 06/10/2012
Eh Vero.. Bravo well said.
09:07 PM on 06/10/2012
Oh so true! The food served in most restaurants here is nothing like what would be served in the 'home' country. Add Thailand to the list - I've yet to find a half-way decent real Thai restaurant.
05:53 PM on 06/10/2012
My trip to Italy was an eye opener. I discovered what they consider "al dente" is what I call undercooked. I had the nerve to tell the waiter the pasta was raw! I'm sure he went back to the chef and called me a "turista!" and pitied my untrained American taste buds.
05:23 PM on 06/10/2012
I visited Italy both working and on vacation. I had local food in Milano, Roma and Aviano areas. I found the food to be flavorful, decent size servings without being too big, with a lot of variety. I had spaghetti in a small town between Aviano and Venice that was incredible - I know I will never find an equal! I enjoyed the table wines, water with gas, and gelato purchased in small towns. I did not particularly enjoy thier beer. Otherwise, viva italia
04:40 PM on 06/10/2012
Thanks for the memories! My wife, children, and myself enjoyed a leisurely, three hour, incredible dinner in Florence in the mid 1990s for about $70 U.S. currency (105,000 lire then). Soup, salad, pasta, entree, and dessert and coffee, plus vino. I have not had such a grand meal since. Laughter, conversation, joking with other guests - so much different than here. And after that, we still had room for a midnight gelato run...the truest flavors I've ever tasted.
photo
carolecray
goddess-woman
04:10 PM on 06/10/2012
What I would like to know is what Italian cooking was like before the late 1400's and early 1500's. Tomatoes and peppers come from the new world.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
kella
07:40 PM on 06/10/2012
have a recipe of minestrone, the best ever, no tomato ofcouse. They always had vegetables. The brussel sprout is italian, cabbages, spinach, onions, garlic. The same but without the tomato and they made flour of differen nuts for desserts and of dried peas for soups. Also fittatas that are not uncooked like the french omelettes.. Had a lot of fish amd the desserts offried dough, cheeses, honey.
photo
carolecray
goddess-woman
09:00 AM on 06/11/2012
I know that Kella,, I just wondered how many others do. Your reply was quite knowledgeable and well put. I am impressed with your knowledge. Thank you very much. Now about that minestrone recipe...
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
10:27 AM on 06/08/2012
I lived in New York from 1965 to 1970 before I came to Florida. I remember a restaurant called Mama Leone's. You paid $20 or $25 (I don't remember) It was a true italian restaurant. They served, when you sit down in your table, a Big ball of cheese (almost a football size) and lots of italian bread. A meal with 6 courses starting with pasta, any form, from lasagna to spaghetti then chicken, veal, beef or pork in different dishes, vegetables cooked deliciously, (of course, whine with the meal) Then, dessert (many italian desserts) and to close, if you like, cappuccino. It took about 2 or 3 hours for the entire meal. This experience was unforgettable. I don't know if this pace still exists. I have not returned to New York since I left in 1970
03:12 PM on 06/09/2012
I've eaten at Mama Leone's in New York, and while I think it'd be fair to call it a "true Italian-AMERICAN restaurant", calling it a "true Italian restaurant" is stretching it a bit. The enormous portion sizes, pasta cooked way past the "al dente" stage, and such "novelties" as serving spaghetti and meatballs together in the same course (common in Italian-American cuisine, but largely unknown in Italy itself) were quite puzzling to my Tuscan cousins who were visiting me at the time. Not to say the food was bad by any means; it was just a highly adapted, Americanized version of the food of Italy.

Mama Leone's was actually at one time quite the fancy place to eat; it kind of went downhill after Restaurant Associates Industries bought it in 1959, and it turned into something more akin to an Olive Garden (although perhaps not as brazenly déclassé) than to anything you'd actually find in Italy. After having closed in the eighties and then re-opened in a different location, it finally closed for good in 1994.
05:59 PM on 06/10/2012
I misspelled graduating! You'd wonder if I really got out of high school...
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
kaymettee
12:52 AM on 06/11/2012
My husband and I went to Mama Leones for lunch after 1959 and it was as honeybear said.
It was nothing to brag about and it was a fast meal and nothing like what an Italian meal that was mentioned as far as leisurely. We felt rushed. The food wasn't bad though.

stuff
05:58 PM on 06/10/2012
I remember Mama Leone's. And that huge cheese! It was a tradition in my high school for gratuating seniors to go there. And that was back in the 1970's.
06:49 PM on 06/10/2012
Yes...I remember eating at Mama Leone's in the 70's too. As I recall, the cheese and the salad and deserrt were the best part of the meal. It wasn't what I would call "good" Italian food. I live in AZ now and really miss "good" Italian food.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Casa-Giardino
08:49 AM on 06/08/2012
Simple and fresh ingredients are key to genuine Italian dishes. And yes, we love peperoncini or peppers of any kind. Our vegetable garden consists mainly of peppers and tomatoes.
http://casa-giardino.blogspot.com/2012/04/pizza-night.html
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Ethical Cat
08:08 PM on 06/07/2012
I remember getting four cones of gelato everyday and drinking lots of red orange juice while traveling through the northwestern region of Italy. The Parma ham with cantaloupe was so good and cheap compared to what I can get outside of the country. The pasta (any kind) and fish (pink trout!) were superb.
08:23 PM on 06/10/2012
Yes!! The juice from the blood orange!! I ordered that wherever I went especially on the superstrada. I did get the jusice in Publix down here in Florida but it was not sweet or a s good... sigh
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
cameron d
Good Guys Win
08:00 PM on 06/07/2012
So basically, this is a guide for uncultured Americans to figure out that Italians eat better and cook better food. Good stuff.
photo
trumbull desi
If I have something pithy to say, see below
12:22 PM on 06/08/2012
Your secret decoder ring has worked. If you ever get the chance to eat in Italy, particularly in small town restaurants, do it. Mangia!