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Adrien Field

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Where Did the Glamour Go?

Posted: 01/21/2011 3:30 pm

On her blog for Vogue Italia, editor in chief Franca Sozzani touched upon a subject that's been whirling around my head for some time: the increasing vulgarity displayed by a large number of fashion magazines. Via NYMag, she writes:

Why is it that the fashion magazines, the ones doing the most research, fall into out of line, worrisome, and at times vulgar traps? We have seen nudes of men and women for a while without purpose if not shocking the audience... If what's beautiful depends on your opinion, what's ugly just repulses you.

You know exactly what she's talking about. Look at any issue of Purple Magazine, purporting to be a fashion/art publication but really just publishing non-arousing pornography shot by 'better' photographers. It's a trend I've found increasingly disturbing and representative of our culture at large. We will do anything to get attention these days, and usually that means being self-parodying and ridiculous for the sole purpose of standing out and capturing an audience. It might be a far stretch, but I see parallels to reality TV and what that does to our culture. We are willing to debase ourselves to the lowest common denominator just for a passing moment of fame. Even worse, as a society we happily consume that garbage. Like a diet of potato chips and soda, it's an unhealthy combination that distorts our taste and the appreciation of refinement.

When I lived in France, there weren't any reality TV shows on air. Instead, prime-time entertainment consisted of French philosophers engaged in a round table discussion about literature or art. It elevated the public discourse. In America, people gorge themselves on Teen Mom, Jersey Shore, and Real Housewives, all of which, in varying degrees, showcase the worst elements of our society. I think it's repugnant that Snooki is a New York Times Best-Selling author when people of real talent go unnoticed because they're above making a mockery of themselves.

Inasmuch as fashion is a barometer for what goes on in culture, there is a similar tendency towards whatever is shocking. People at large are so jaded by vulgarity that designers, stylists, and photographers have to think of new, more perverse ways to capture people's attention. Is there any better example than the revolting circus Lady Gaga's stylist, Nicola Formichetti, sent down the runway at Thierry Mugler with tattooed goblins? Or French Vogue's December issue featuring the double whammy of a pre-pubescent girl styled in adult makeup and clothes and a later feature of a geriatric love scene?

I am saddened by the lack of taste and glamour in today's society. Fashion was always for me about aspiration and the pursuit of beauty. These days it's little more than an adopted Kardashian sister: desperate for attention, morally void, and over-exposed.

 
 
 

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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
kenhamlett
08:54 AM on 01/30/2011
I like the article. Glamour still exists, but we don't celebrate it or embrace it much anymore. Instead, we always seem to go for the sensational and the tasteless. I think it says a lot about us as a society, unfortunately.
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jukesgrrl
Hands off SS, Medicare & Medicaid
04:53 PM on 01/28/2011
I liked this post and yesterday spent a bit of time composing a 200-word comment explaining why. It did not have a single objectionable word in it. I wish the censors would have put it here so Mr. Field could see WHY some readers appreciated what he had to say.
05:21 PM on 01/26/2011
I understand the writer's general thesis but to be fair, the struggle for attention has never been greater. In many ways, it's going to be harder for people and brands to stand-out - only the best will really survive as such.
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Indigo1941
Time traveler.
12:44 PM on 01/24/2011
"Glamour" went to Canada. Could we interest you in some old-fashioned American 'glamor'?
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11:01 AM on 01/24/2011
Great article - summed up best in the last paragraph.
thebigbike
ran away to be a cowboy
06:17 PM on 01/23/2011
glamour never WAS about anything more than the kardashian sisters or their equivalent at whatever time. less media spread meant only that it was filtered by the amount of money the glamoree had, more money was the equivalent of more media exposure. if you want "glamour" you'll have to limit its appearance to media outlets that are seen only by the anointed few, and accept that hoi polloi are by definition vulgar. Don't look at them and don't allow them to look at your internally defined glamorees
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Aitch5
Scintillating
10:32 AM on 01/23/2011
Great article Adrien--and insightful because you work in the industry of which you write.
01:06 AM on 01/23/2011
It is so true that there s very little glamor and even less class or taste. I am not a prude and nudity has a place. I would love to see hats and gloves come back because they were so elegance. There are still ladies and gentlemen out there who dress with a sense of fashion and a sense of fun. There is still beauty in clothes and how they are worn. I am so tired of the micro minis and the meat dresses, the way too skinny models and the reality tv people dictating what should be worn. Does Snooki know about art, I doubt it, Does she know that the lipstick she wears clashes with her skin tone, I doubt it. I would love to see a return to beauty in clothes, fashion is cyclical so who knows.
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Aitch5
Scintillating
08:41 PM on 01/22/2011
There is so much noise in the culture--that advertisers, content producers, feel the pressure to grab your attention, and now do anything to get it.--Shock value is certainly popular now. But then everyone does it and it becomes less shocking. So they have to try even harder to get our attention.
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Tracy R Gibson
04:22 AM on 01/22/2011
Well said!