We're in the middle of Mercedes-Benz Spring Fashion Week. The world has truly turned upside down. For fall, the runways were awash with iridescent and neon. For Spring Fashion we get beige? Too many designers are giving us subdued shades. Alexander Wang does earth tones and Lacoste gives us a mustard finish. White is a close second to an almost monochromatic color pattern, i.e. single color dresses with trim. Pink anyone? Some flower patterns are reminiscent of grandmas couch. Comfortable is in; with cotton, organza and fabrics I can actually pronounce being prevalent.
It's the one-year anniversary of Lehman Brother's collapse. Now, the McCafe in the tents is rationing milk. Gone is extravagance, from show production to the exuberance of the giveaways. There seems to be an overabundance of B and C list celebrities, with the sprinkling of the reality show star. The major names came for Fashion's Night Out, but afterward they decided to stay home, replaced by the ubiquitous housewives, which the press gaggle seems to be tiring of.
Let's focus on some stand outs: SPURR gave us color for men. Mara Hoffman for women. Adam Lippies gave us a wonderful pallet of comfortable clothing, again striding many different emerging trends and just making good clothes. DKNY built on the fall styles instead of choosing to simply turn against it. The rest seemed timid at best, maybe even conservative. Duckie Brown, inspired by grease and James Dean was a joy to see. SPURR is a fashion fund finalist (competition for up and coming designers sponsored by Vogue), so Anna Wintour's direct hand is felt in his selection of color choice. Y-3 stayed true to their brand identity and just made good clothes; this was much appreciated. The menswear designers like Thom Browne are creating far more interesting clothes then their womenswear counterparts.
Those that missed the mark tried to make Victorian modern. We want style, we don't want to look like we stepped out of a ancient family photo wondering if our lost uncle always sported that lecherous look. Some designers even sent leather shorts and jackets down the runway. Leather in spring -- maybe. In summer, no.
Once again, with striking contrast between design ethos, some ateliers took to creating sleek and futuristic looks, almost for a post-apocalyptic age, with lost sleeves and new shades of color. Large poofs -- sometimes sharp shoulder blades or worse yet carcinogenic growths. While still others went to the turn of the century and even the civil war.
While trends and we need to let the dust settle for our new age. Fashion is just as lost as the rest of us. I'm hoping some designers later in the week will wow and excite me. There's still hope the week hasn't ended yet.
The Model Report
Maybe the sold out issue of Glamour affected the runways because the girls were plumper. Naysayers will say they're still thin. This time around by Fashion standards they're anything but. Models themselves have striking and distinctive looks that jump from the runway and the page. They also have a general aura about then when they walk, able to engage and excite the viewer. I will never forget watching Heidi Klum glide in seasons past. Most of the models I've observed are somehow disengaged from themselves almost exuding boredom. Maybe they don't like the clothes they're wearing.
This exception can be made for houses able to invest in a model who translates the feel of each garment. Custo Barcelona had some of the most striking men so far and a red head that was almost haunting. Max Azria as well. Y-3 had some of the repetitive faces that will make their mark this season.
The Meaning of Style
At Venexiana I was waiting in line next to someone who was mildly bemused at seeing a runway show for the first time; she said it was silly and didn't feel a part of fashion. I went on to chime in, that everyone who wore clothing was a part of this industry, even if they don't pay attention to what happens in the tents. That everyone has a personal style and uses clothing to communicate. She'd never thought of the industry in that way. Her friend, a doctor, was excited by my explanation.
This makes me wonder. What does fashion mean to you?