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Ann Brenoff

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Marilyn Hagerty, North Dakota Olive Garden Restaurant Reviewer, Goes Viral

Posted: 03/ 9/2012 3:34 pm

From one reporter to another, thank you Marilyn Hagerty, for your perfectly fine review of the new Olive Garden in the Grand Forks (North Dakota) Herald. What made me cringe wasn't the fact that you lavishly praised the new restaurant as your city's "most beautiful" or even that you chose to review a chain restaurant in the first place. What bothered me was the snarky mocking you were served -- not at the hands of your Olive Garden waiter, but by the hipsters at Gawker and Boing Boing.

The writer at Boing Boing started with this: "Here's a sentence I never expected to type: You should really read the Grand Forks Herald's review of The Olive Garden." She then went on to wax unpoetically about the nostalgia of eating at uncool places like the Olive Garden or Red Lobster. Gawker simply repeated lines from your review, implying how truly preposterous it was for someone would positively review such a common place.

Their attention to your story caused it to blow up, go viral, explode -- all good things, for those who aren't fluent in Webspeak. And the beauty is that all you were doing is something that the elite media just doesn't get: Writing an unhip review of a new restaurant that tells readers in your city of 50,000 about the experience and how much it will cost them. Hats off, I say.

And good for you for remaining nonplussed by the attention. You told the Village Voice that you were just doing your job, the same thing you've been doing every day at the newspaper since the 1950s. And as the Village Voice pointed out, Pulitzer Prize-winning restaurant critic Jonathan Gold reviewed the Olive Garden for L.A. Weekly last April. But when he did it, it was cool.

So was this mocking response ageist? Or just another reminder that for some New York media elite, the United States ends at the Hudson River? Truth is, in many small towns across the country, the opening of an Olive Garden restaurant can be a big deal. And by the way, having gone to a few, their food isn't bad and if you ask, they'll bake up a batch of their breadsticks without the butter and salt coating. Funny, I couldn't get Spago to do that.

 
 
 

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03:16 PM on 03/13/2012
Sometimes you are better off going to a chain restaurant rather than a fancy-upscale place. I live in a resort community so I have been to my share of "nicer" places. They give you a little bit of food piled in the middle of a big plate for a ridiculous amount of money. Give me Olive Garden any day. Shame on those who are belittling Marilyn. She wrote an honest, thoughtful review. She is a very classy lady. Not everyone is wealthy and not everyone lives in a big city. Come one, people, stop being snobs who make fun of others. that is not classy at all.
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sharonlmomofthree
05:43 PM on 03/13/2012
Yeah, why do fancy restaurants stack everything up on a big plate like that? They do that on Food Network, too.
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ThinkTwiceWriteOnce
Jarndyce v. Jarndyce
07:11 AM on 03/13/2012
May she still listens to HER mother......"If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all."

Unlike likely to see that in any of the party platforms this fall......regrettably.
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shortguy54
Short, balding, brilliant... (well, maybe not so)
03:11 PM on 03/12/2012
"United States ends at the Hudson River"? I'm from California. Trust me, the United States end at the Sierra Nevada. Fromt there to the Mississippi: the Sahara, and from there on east my map say, "Here there be dragons"!
09:16 AM on 03/12/2012
Marilyn is our local restaurant reviewer, the Grand Forks Herald is my local paper. We live in such a rural area that even though it's a tad bit embarrassing to say, the Olive Garden coming to Grand Forks is a big deal. We just don't have the population for cool, trendy (hip?) restaurants so to get an Olive Garden was amazing!

Marilyn is a sweet, sincere woman and I love her restaurant reviews.
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shortguy54
Short, balding, brilliant... (well, maybe not so)
03:13 PM on 03/12/2012
It's truly sad when a place is so rural that it doesn't have restaurants where a haughty staff can abuse its patrons. How provincial!
01:19 AM on 03/13/2012
I lived in eastern Kentucky for a time. I worked for the only architect in the whole county. I remember when a Long John Silver Fish & Chips was built one town over. You'd think elBulli had come to Appalachia! People drove 20 miles and lined up! Marilyn...you rock the bottomless salad bowl girl~
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obamavet
Green and Left
08:36 AM on 03/12/2012
If you are referncing a person's age and adding that he or she is "lucky" to be as functional as anyone else, you might be agist. Just sayin'...
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E V
01:09 PM on 03/11/2012
Hipsters are so funny. They like to eschew everything ordinary or popular. It's the new goth. "I'm insecure so I'll just hate everything you like before you can dis me." and/or "I'm insecure so I'm afraid to wear something trendy - so I'll just wear everything that's trendy at once and pretend it's because I'm cooler than everyone else".
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miamorphos
11:44 PM on 03/12/2012
"I paid a hundred dollars for this haircut, and I look homeless." Among others. Love the hipsters.
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wjhamilton29464
Attorney, progressive activist and writer
12:20 PM on 03/11/2012
I wrote for a suburban weekly for over a decade. You have to remember that these people are your neighbors. Kindness and generosity are essential. You don't slam the chain restauraunt the head of your PTA runs that your sister I'll have her rehersal party at.
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05:18 AM on 03/13/2012
I grew up in a small coastal town in the 1950s. Reading Mariilyn's review brought back a wave of nostalgia for the small town sense of community. We had a family that owned their own shrimp boats, and they opened a little, tiny restaurant (plastic table cloths and plastic glasses from the dime store). However, their gumbo was fresher and better tasting than any I have had at any fancy New Orleans restaurant. Another favorite place to eat was to drive to the next town, where a local woman's mother had run a boarding house. Although the daughter no longer took in boarders, she still served fabulous, family-style meals during the lunch time. It became so popular that she had to covert the whole downstairs of her house (which still wasn't that big) to a dining roorm. Hurricane Camille in 1969 took all that away. It was really a Normal Rockwell sort of time while it lasted...at least from my childhood eyes.
11:43 AM on 03/11/2012
Let us not try to decipher what type of prejudice was displayed by the make-funners of Ms. Hagerty, but rather discuss the fact that society has become so egotistical that picking on intelligent and kind people for their differences and opinions is fair game....or better yet I'd like to know how much more business Olive Garden has received since this hoopla began. Bottom line is Ms. Hagerty is awesome, 85 years old and still going strong. I'd hope to be that lucky in 50 years.
11:06 AM on 03/11/2012
I think it's just plain mean. I have eaten everywhere from that hip place in Copenhagen that keeps getting written up in Bon Appetit to Bobby Flay's Bar Americain and Union Square Cafe in Manhattan just last month to yes, the Olive Garden. The Olive Garden has its purpose and if this town just got its first one, then that's newsworthy. Mrs. Hagerty writes well and did her job. Even from a "mocking" standpoint, which I'm capable of doing, I just don't see that the material is there. It's a straightforward reflection on a trip to a new restaurant. I mean she didn't say that this was the first she'd ever HEARD of an Olive Garden, or that it was the best place she'd ever dined in her LIFE! I just fail to see what is so entertaining about this nice lady's article!!
02:24 PM on 03/11/2012
Agreed. I was just at Bryan Voltaggio's place for brunch, and am planning on being at one of Jose Garces' places for lunch next weekend. In between? My synagogue sisterhood has a dinner meeting... at Olive Garden. And I will go and I will enjoy the breadsticks and minestrone there greatly.

What hipsters and some illiterate foodies cannot accept is that good, or at least decent, food is where you find it. I know a dump that has the best crab soup ever, and four star restaurants that can't send me an omelet that I don't think is overcooked. Even chains have foods that they do well if you look hard enough. The trick of the person who appreciates food more than posing is to be able to follow the food, not the cool.
05:11 PM on 03/13/2012
Exactly right! She didn't say the food was the best ever, but that it was good. She wrote more about the restaurant in general to let people know what to expect when they go there.
08:44 AM on 03/11/2012
Its not ageism-its big citism. On a business trip, I was in Colonial Heights, Virginia just in time for the grand opening of their first Olive Garden. The local work staff and hotel staff were all abuzz with excitement and we indeed have a late lunch there avoiding the anticipated long lines.
06:39 AM on 03/11/2012
the review was hilarious. small towns and small town papers are hilarious. being outright nasty and sending nasty e-mails sucks but, other than that, the article was fair game for a giggle. the fact people are falling over themselves in righteous indignation to defend something that doesn't need defending strikes me as a little more "hip" than their overuse of the word "hipster".

fix the chip on that shoulder. stop being so precious.
09:49 AM on 03/11/2012
Your comments are hard to follow because you don't use conventional punctuation and capitalization, but what I think you are saying is that you - being a big-city type - think it's OK for all big-city types to laugh at poor, culturally deprived small town hicks because we are so "hilarious."

Mute should be the operative word here.
12:15 PM on 03/11/2012
my punctuation is fine and, being so, perfectly delineates one sentence from another. what are you, some sort of capitalization snob? are you laughing at me for not using caps? think you're better than me, huh? huh!

also, my other hand is in a cast. its easier to not use caps when one-handed. are you really an MD? got any tips for my quandary?
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E V
01:11 PM on 03/11/2012
This big city girl thinks you're spot on and hilarious. :) FnF
11:18 PM on 03/10/2012
Agreed. I read the review and found it to be...well....a restaurant review. I'm not sure what people are finding funny about it
05:15 PM on 03/10/2012
Ageism is more apparent in the TV interviews held with Marilyn Hagerty over the last few days. The interviewers can't seem to get over the fact she is in her eighties and at least as bright as they and still doing her job as a journalist. (Would that they should ever get so lucky.) It's really a no-win for her since even when she replies intelligently to thinly veiled snarkish questions, her straight up answers are followed with giggles. Ageism seems to be the last standing socially acceptable prejudice.
03:33 PM on 03/10/2012
I write for a small town weekly. You can't get too negative about a local business not only because they advertise, but because the manager is married to your kid's teacher, or the waitress lives on your block, or they donate to the library, or your grandson might get a job there, or they have a fundraiser for the local food pantry, or they give scholarships to the graduating seniors on staff... even if the food isn't gourmet, it's a chance to get out of the house and run into friends.
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wjhamilton29464
Attorney, progressive activist and writer
12:23 PM on 03/11/2012
Yes, community is like that.
02:53 PM on 03/10/2012
Great article! Thanks for writing.