By Antonio Busiello with Paula Silbey
Siena's Palio is one of the most difficult and ancient bareback horse races in the world with origins dating back centuries. Held annually in July and August, it attracts thousands of Italians and foreign visitors.
A few years ago I was asked to photograph the world famous Palio horse race but turned it down initially due to my concern that the animals might not be treated well.
I had read news accounts about the mistreatment of Palio horses which made me wary of covering the event since I am very sensitive to issues involving animals and their well-being. However, the idea of shooting the Palio stuck in mind. Why? Perhaps it was because of my academic studies in anthropology and my longterm interest in the relationship between humans and animals.
So I decided to visit Siena to learn more about this renowned historical and cultural annual tradition. Rather than finding mistreatment, I discovered that the horses in Siena are worshipped. For the people of Siena, the Palio horses are sacred. They are treated very well, even after they no longer run the race.
The city's government pays for horse clinics and provides for their retirement in the beautiful Tuscan countryside. The Palio horses, along with rescued horses, spend their final years taken care of, complete with veterinarian care. .
Additionally, in the last few years strict laws have been enacted to protect horses before, during and after the race.
The Palio is the most important event for the people of Siena. Although the race lasts less than 90 seconds, the citizens spend an entire year organizing it. Every detail has to come together precisely. The tension mounts day by day, culminating on race day in July and again in August. After a year of planning and working on every aspect of the race, it begins and ends in under two minutes.
I had the privilege of "living the Palio" with the Tartuca, one of the 17 contradas or districts competing each year. I worked side by side with the men of Tartuca for Palios in July and August. Siena is divided into 17 districts but only ten participate annually. Each one has its own flag, government and constitution and sees itself as a small city-state.
The Benediction:
Early in the afternoon, just before the Palio, each contrada takes its horse and jockey to its own church. There the hopeful and enthusiastic contrade watch as a priest blesses the special horse and its jockey.
.
The most important and exciting moments occur when the "Mossiere" tries to line up the horses correctly between front and rear hemp ropes for the actual start. During this crucial process, the jockeys make their agreements and alliances with other jockeys and develop the running strategies.
Lining up the horses can take anywhere from a few minutes to hours. On some occasions it takes so long that the race occurs at dusk or even gets suspended because it becomes too dark. Nine horses are aligned between the ropes while the tenth horse takes up the rear. This tenth jockey and horse decide when to start running at which point the Mossiere drops the front rope. The race finally begins as the riders take off in a flash.
The contrada is also a social organization with its own church, museum, hymn, insignia and patron saint, a perfect example of a community coming together for the benefit of all. Beside activities relating to the Palio, contradas have social activities several times a weekly throughout the year.
The older men mentor the younger members and all work together for the good of the city. The contradas also spend a lot of time and money organizing the Palio.
During the three days of trials, the alignment of horses is known by all. However, for the actual Palio, only the Mossiere knows the horses' order until the last minute. As the horses and their jockeys parade to the starting line, tension mounts as all await this crucial announcement.
As the suspense builds, the Mossiere shows the white envelope to thousands of onlookers. Complete silence overtakes in Piazza del Campo, creating a surreal atmosphere. It seems as if everyone is holding his or her breath. Finally, the Mossiere reads out the order of the race and a storm of shouts and cheers breaks out.
Siena's Palio is without any doubt an extraordinary event that has deep social, anthropological, religious and cultural meanings. Only by visiting Siena during the last four days of the Palio and experiencing the atmosphere of this amazing event, is it possible to understand its genuine meaning.
See the complete Siena's Palio photo gallery on www.antoniobusiello.com
Follow Antonio Busiello on:
Our 2024 Coverage Needs You
It's Another Trump-Biden Showdown — And We Need Your Help
The Future Of Democracy Is At Stake
Our 2024 Coverage Needs You
Your Loyalty Means The World To Us
As Americans head to the polls in 2024, the very future of our country is at stake. At HuffPost, we believe that a free press is critical to creating well-informed voters. That's why our journalism is free for everyone, even though other newsrooms retreat behind expensive paywalls.
Our journalists will continue to cover the twists and turns during this historic presidential election. With your help, we'll bring you hard-hitting investigations, well-researched analysis and timely takes you can't find elsewhere. Reporting in this current political climate is a responsibility we do not take lightly, and we thank you for your support.
Contribute as little as $2 to keep our news free for all.
Can't afford to donate? Support HuffPost by creating a free account and log in while you read.
The 2024 election is heating up, and women's rights, health care, voting rights, and the very future of democracy are all at stake. Donald Trump will face Joe Biden in the most consequential vote of our time. And HuffPost will be there, covering every twist and turn. America's future hangs in the balance. Would you consider contributing to support our journalism and keep it free for all during this critical season?
HuffPost believes news should be accessible to everyone, regardless of their ability to pay for it. We rely on readers like you to help fund our work. Any contribution you can make — even as little as $2 — goes directly toward supporting the impactful journalism that we will continue to produce this year. Thank you for being part of our story.
Can't afford to donate? Support HuffPost by creating a free account and log in while you read.
It's official: Donald Trump will face Joe Biden this fall in the presidential election. As we face the most consequential presidential election of our time, HuffPost is committed to bringing you up-to-date, accurate news about the 2024 race. While other outlets have retreated behind paywalls, you can trust our news will stay free.
But we can't do it without your help. Reader funding is one of the key ways we support our newsroom. Would you consider making a donation to help fund our news during this critical time? Your contributions are vital to supporting a free press.
Contribute as little as $2 to keep our journalism free and accessible to all.
Can't afford to donate? Support HuffPost by creating a free account and log in while you read.
As Americans head to the polls in 2024, the very future of our country is at stake. At HuffPost, we believe that a free press is critical to creating well-informed voters. That's why our journalism is free for everyone, even though other newsrooms retreat behind expensive paywalls.
Our journalists will continue to cover the twists and turns during this historic presidential election. With your help, we'll bring you hard-hitting investigations, well-researched analysis and timely takes you can't find elsewhere. Reporting in this current political climate is a responsibility we do not take lightly, and we thank you for your support.
Contribute as little as $2 to keep our news free for all.
Can't afford to donate? Support HuffPost by creating a free account and log in while you read.
Dear HuffPost Reader
Thank you for your past contribution to HuffPost. We are sincerely grateful for readers like you who help us ensure that we can keep our journalism free for everyone.
The stakes are high this year, and our 2024 coverage could use continued support. Would you consider becoming a regular HuffPost contributor?
Dear HuffPost Reader
Thank you for your past contribution to HuffPost. We are sincerely grateful for readers like you who help us ensure that we can keep our journalism free for everyone.
The stakes are high this year, and our 2024 coverage could use continued support. If circumstances have changed since you last contributed, we hope you'll consider contributing to HuffPost once more.
Support HuffPostAlready contributed? Log in to hide these messages.