Cold Comfort

Telluride is nestled in the southwest corner of Colorado, where geology did some of its best work. Peaks of 14,000 feet melt into red-rock mesas and lush stands of aspen silently forest the hills.
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Snowflakes are one of nature's most fragile things, but just look what they do when they stick together. In Telluride, Colorado, their sticking together has produced a magnificent, world-class resort for all manner of winter sports. The destination is nestled in the southwest corner of Colorado where geology did some of its best work. Peaks of 14,000 feet melt into red-rock mesas and lush stands of evergreen and aspen silently forest the hills. Telluride, once a booming silver mining town, is now an historic gem with much of its original Victorian architecture preserved.

The Telluride Ski Resort
offers something for everyone, whether it's gentle, open, rolling slopes or challenging black diamond bumps, some of the most challenging skiing in North America. Lovely. However, as I do not indulge in winter sports (read: absolutely no ability), an inviting road less traveled beckoned furiously to me. I had to take it.

The Peaks Resort & Golden Door Spa, hovering high above the town, is where I chose to hang for the couple of days I spent in Telluride, and it had everything that a non-skier, non-boarder, non-skater like me could possibly wish for. It was divine, a haven for we who do not define R&R by flying down a vertical mountain slope, wind lacerating our faces, and the threat of imminent catastrophe looming over our heads. Instead, proponents of soft adventure (accent on soft) will find this full-service resort one's perfect cup of tea or hot toddy, whatever the preference.

This resort is home to the famed Golden Door Spa, and, in keeping with its original property in California, it is dedicated to creating a balance of body, mind and spirit through personal programs and treatments. Feeling a slight pang of guilt as I watched fit individuals zooming down mountains, faces glowing from the icy wind and frozen into masks of sheer concentration lest they crash and burn, I felt compelled to choose the Healthy Lifestyle Package. It promised that my body would "thank me for taking the time to respect and nourish it." I am certain my body was really thanking me for not attempting to ski. The 3-hour session included a private body composition analysis and fitness assessment (oh-oh) and a personal training session (okaaay) and then the good stuff: a 50-minute, customized Swedish massage (puuurfect).

I dined that evening at the resort's Palmyra restaurant under the guidance of Chef Stuart Redhead (really) who works his culinary wonders with the freshest local ingredients and explains that he "focuses on clean, simple flavors and seasonal, artisanal ingredients." My dinner was lovely, the view spectacular, a perfect "Ten-Day" overall.

The next day I ventured out of my cocoon and wandered the town which looks much as it did in the 1880s with brick hotels and clapboard storefronts. I enjoyed checking out the shops, art galleries, and the best part: tricked out (literally) in cool ski clothing, no one could tell I wasn't a winter-sports gal. I felt like an insider, a true Telluridian in my shiny red Obermeyer jacket and slim black ski pants . Not wanting to lose this heady feeling of fitting in, for dinner I changed into my cute Columbia thermal-insulated Prism Ice Parka. On my walk back to the hotel I didn't hurry along - I strolled, warm and snug in hip ski duds.

The Peaks offers a bounty of activities. It is a ski-in/ski-out resort with access to Telluride's miles of trails, snowboarding, tubing and ice skating. Guest rooms are comfortable, the suites ultra-luxurious, and cabins and penthouses have custom décor, vaulted ceilings, and stone fireplaces. The resort is a 10-minute ride from Telluride Regional Airport and a scenic hour and 15 minutes from Montrose Airport.

There's an anonymous quote that says "Winter must be cold for those with no warm memories." Next winter should be a piece of cake because I left Telluride with a wealth of very warm memories.


Things To Know Before You Go
:
Telluride Visitors Center - http://www.visittelluride.com

Summer Festivities
May 27-30 - Mountainfilm, a distinctive blend of films, speakers, gallery exhibits, and seminars
June 16-19 - Bluegrass Festival features four days of bluegrass music on the stage in Town Park
August 5-7 - Telluride Jazz Celebration, with Rita Coolidge, Paquito D'Rivera and many others

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