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Honey Cake: The Fruitcake of the Jews


Jews aren't just the people of the book; we're the people of the fork. Eat, pray, love -- and eat. That's us! We're the mavens of matzah balls, the champions of chopped liver. But even champions lose sometimes, and even mavens make mistakes. And for Jews, our downfall comes every fall, during Rosh Hashanah. That's right, folks: I'm talking about honey cake, the fruitcake of the Jews.

Seriously, have you ever tried to take down a piece of honey cake? Have you ever made it through a big old bite? You can't. It's impossible. It's the original Man vs. Food. This cake has no frosting, no filling, and no chocolate chips. It doesn't even deserve to be called a cake. It's more like a depressing little loaf, or date bread's dreary cousin. Boring, bland, dry, and dull -- it's like the rabbi's sermon of desserts.

Don't get me wrong: we usually get it right. Usually Jew food is genius! Hamentaschen on Purim -- perfect! Latkes on Chanukah -- licking the plate! Fasting on Yom Kipuur -- ok, fine, maybe that one could use some work, too. But honey cake? Honey cake? We've been celebrating for 5771 years and that's the best we could do?

I know, I know. It's a symbol for a sweet new year. It's a metaphor for the good things to come. Well, let me tell you, if honey cake is a sign of what lies ahead, that's not saying much for my new year. I don't feel happy when I see honey cake; I feel sad. I feel sorry for that abandoned, lonely pastry sitting untouched on the table while we nosh down on other desserts. It's the last cake picked for gym class. Even at Yom Kippur Break Fast, everyone rushes from the synagogue sanctuary to scarf down the cookies and challah and parve shul brownies that the sisterhood set out. But no one touches the honey cake. People would rather continue their fast than feast on that. If my year is anything like that honey cake's fate, I'm going to spend it sitting home alone without a single suitor in sight. I don't need a pastry to remind me I could end up old and alone; I've got my Jewish mother to do that.

Now, let's say you're not single. Let's say you're lucky enough to have a boyfriend who asked you to ring in The Rosh with his family. If you show up at his family's house with a honking loaf of honey cake, you won't be his honey for long. His parents will politely accept your gift, whisk it away to the kitchen, and mumble something about how his last girlfriend was mensch enough to bring mondelbrot. It's true -- honey cake makes a horrible hostess gift. It's a no-go for any guest.

And don't get me started on the calorie count. If I take down that honey cake, the only thing I'll start the New Year with is a new five pounds. I mean, I'm willing to sacrifice my poulkes for some kugel and kishke. But why in the world would I hand over my hips to a honey cake? Please. If I'm going to rack up the Weight Watchers points on Rosh Hashanah, I'm doing it with a dozen rugelach.

In the least, honey cake needs some kind of extreme edible makeover. Someone call Sprinkles or Magnolia Bakery -- we want some honey cake cupcakes, stat! I mean, everything tastes better when it's smothered under three inches of icing, right? Of course, I'd still skip the cake part and go straight to licking off the frosting with my fingers. I'm sorry to say, I think Rosh Hashanah honey cake is hopeless.

Here's the thing, Rosh Hashanah is the Jewish New Year. It's all about starting anew. So this year, I propose a new dessert. I suggest we start a new tradition. And I know just how to do it. On Rosh Hashanah, Jews perform Taschlich, a ceremony during which we symbolically cast off our sins by casting crumbs into a moving body of water. Well, let's forget tossing day-old challah crumbs and start chucking whole honey cakes. Yes, down the river. We'll cast away the lying, the cheating, and the bad culinary choices. I'm sure some traditionalists out there will start a "save the honey cake" campaign. They'll stand outside the kosher grocer with petitions; they'll boycott the kosher corner bakery. But they can't intimidate me. There's a reason Israel is called the Land of Milk and Honey, not Milk and Honey Cake. I say haul away the honey cake, and it actually will be a happy new year.

 
 
 

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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Carin Davis
02:54 PM on 09/19/2010
In response to this article, Magnolia Bakery is now making Honey Cake Cupcakes to nosh on!
10:19 PM on 09/13/2010
My grandmother made the most horrible fruitcake. She sat for hours seeding the raisons then cut them with a pair of broken sizzors. She put molassas in it and when it burned (and it burned) the whole thing smelled like creosote. Then she gave us all one for Christmas, even us kids had our own. My brother made a ritual of dropping his from a second story window on New Years Eve. No one ever ate a bite of it.
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mburgh
Come Back Samuel Gompers
07:51 AM on 09/13/2010
I didn't even bake a honey cake this year. I'm the only one who eats it, and yes, I don't like it. Instead I went with the tradition of dipping apple slices in honey-a big hit. I made a nice babka ring instead.
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learninglife
Be the change you want to see in the world
06:16 PM on 09/10/2010
Thanks for the laughs. I'm not Jewish, but did buy and prepare a Manischewitz honey cake mix. It was good - of course, it had to be washed down with a gallon of coffee. Then again, I'll eat pretty much anything except liver and snails.
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Carin Davis
04:52 PM on 09/12/2010
I'm with you on snails, but I'd take chopped liver over honey cake any day.
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Jim Shaffer
50 yo US citizen, 25 year resident in Bilbao Spain
06:01 AM on 09/10/2010
Jewish culture sure get's a lot of showcasing here, a good thing to be sure, but there are other US cultural groups. Honey cakes OK, I guess, but I'm Pennsylvania dutch and Shoo Fly pie is much better!
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Jim Shaffer
50 yo US citizen, 25 year resident in Bilbao Spain
05:58 AM on 09/10/2010
Jewish culture sure get's a lot of showcasing here, a good thing to be sure, but there are other US cultural groups. Honey cakes OK, I guess, but I'm Pennsylvania dutch and Shoo Fly pie is much better!
09:08 PM on 09/09/2010
I love honey cake! But I am not Jewish so I have only had it at the office in the form of leftovers so I never had to eat it because my mother told me to. I also love fruitcake that's been soaked in whiskey for a year. My mother never told me to eat that either.
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Carin Davis
12:52 AM on 09/10/2010
Hmmm... whiskey-soaked honey cake. Could be a step up...
05:06 PM on 09/10/2010
Anyone is welcome to set me up around the holidays! Whiskey drizzled chocolate cake is also pretty good.
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gingerdevotion
05:40 PM on 09/09/2010
Very witty!
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Carin Davis
12:53 AM on 09/10/2010
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
GraceNotes
We live for books.
11:39 AM on 09/09/2010
I like the idea of floating the crumbs down river. I believe in some places, people gather after Christmas to fling fruitcakes using one of those giant catapults.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
Weirdwriter
01:41 PM on 09/09/2010
Manitou Springs, Colorado. Wrote about it in my book "Weird Colorado." They've been doing a competition on fruitcake-tossing distance for years:
http://www.colorado-for-free.com/FreeThingsToDoColorado/FruitcakeToss.htm

Has gotten very competitive ever since Team Boeing was defeated by a local group of Girl Scouts....
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Carin Davis
12:54 AM on 09/10/2010
Love it. Wonder if they'd let me enter with a honey cake... Have you participated in it?
08:50 AM on 09/08/2010
I almost feel bad saying this, but I love GOOD honeycake. When properly made, a honeycake is moist, dense and satisfying. And even tastes good. Since there is so little in the world of haute cuisine (or any cuisine) that is "Jewish", it's sad that this item gets such a bum rap. But the fruitcake comparison says it all...most commercially baked honeycake is as bad as most mass produced fruitcake. More's the pity. A good homemade honeycake is worth the effort. Happy New Year nonetheless!
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Carin Davis
03:49 PM on 09/08/2010
It would be a Happy New Year - if I could find a good homemade honey cake!
12:12 AM on 09/10/2010
While the cake is likewarm, punch holes all over with a skewer and drizzle with honey with a little water and lemon juice mixed in and simmered, then cooled to warm. Then place in a lined tin (or plastic box) with a lid and store covered to allow "mellowing" for a few days.

Not the classic, but really good.
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Blue Ayez
12:18 AM on 09/08/2010
I must be old school cause I love the stuff. I like fruit cake too, if it's made well and fresh. But don't tell anyone. I don't want people sending me their 15 year old fruit cakes.
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07:25 PM on 09/08/2010
I'd LOVE a 15-year-old fruitcake.......if it had been properly stored. Gawd, it would be fantastic. Fresh fruitcakes are fine, but ones made with dried fruits that have been macerated in rum of cognac for weeksl before being baked, then aged in tins for months, years(!), wrapped in cheesecloth and subjected to periodic dousings of rum/cognac. Heaven.
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Carin Davis
02:38 AM on 09/09/2010
We may have a 15 year old honey cake leftover from High Holidays '95. Good year - dry, fruity.
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11:51 PM on 09/07/2010
That headline needs a t-shirt.
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Carin Davis
03:40 PM on 09/08/2010
If you print the shirt, I'll wear it!
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03:05 AM on 09/09/2010
Can we wear it together?
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Eric Mann
Do you want to be on the opposite side of Progress
08:44 PM on 09/07/2010
Oh man, I hate that stuff! My mother made honeycake and was so proud that she was using her great-grandmother's recipe that came from "leetle weelidge" in Galacia. I remember it would dry out and get real hard and we'd use it to make stuffing for the turkey on Thanksgiving.

Ok, so the idea is to use honey in baking eh? Ok, a nice rich vanilla cake with a honey buttercream frosting...ok, so its milchig... Um, Donuts with a honey-shoyu glaze! There we go. Satisfy incorporating honey into dessert AND hitting the whole Jewish-and-Asian-food thing as a bonus! Man, I ought to be writing this stuff down and selling it somewhere...
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Carin Davis
03:45 PM on 09/08/2010
That poor Thanksgiving turkey... But think you're onto something with the donuts!
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Eric Mann
Do you want to be on the opposite side of Progress
01:02 PM on 09/09/2010
And they're even round to complete the symbol.
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Weirdwriter
06:18 PM on 09/07/2010
As a Lutheran, I will say we have the equivalent of honey cake. It's called lutefisk.

There must be a good recipe for a delicious honey cake somewhere. But I can't think of a good recipe to turn out anything that still tastes like lutefisk.
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grailknight
is happily godless
07:36 PM on 09/07/2010
Having known Lutherans in Missouri, Illinois, Tennessee, and South Dakota, I never heard of lutefisk until I lived in Minnesota. It's a Norwegian thing.
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Weirdwriter
08:05 PM on 09/07/2010
Yeah, exposure to it depends on the number of people of Nordic heritage in any particular Lutheran church.
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Blue Ayez
12:20 AM on 09/08/2010
I'm a fan of lefse and Swedish meatballs, maybe an aebleskiver or two, but man, you can keep the fish paste.
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nikanj
free the fnords
10:43 PM on 09/08/2010
Good fresh lefse is to die for.