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Meathead Goldwyn

Meathead Goldwyn

Posted: December 30, 2010 05:49 PM


2010-12-30-hoppin_john.jpg

Around the world different cultures have their special traditions for welcoming the New Year and to ensure good luck. According to Jessica B. Harris in Wednesday's New York Times, "In Spain, grapes eaten as the clock turns midnight -- one for each chime -- foretell whether the year will be sweet or sour. In Austria, the New Year's table is decorated with marzipan pigs to celebrate wealth, progress and prosperity. Germans savor carp and place a few fish scales in their wallets for luck. And for African-Americans and in the Southern United States, it's all about black-eyed peas."

The regional beans of the US

Beans are an important part of American culinary heritage. For recipes covering the canon of American bean dishes, follow these links.


The Zen of Beans. Begin by reading this article to learn about how to handle dried beans and canned beans.

Boston Baked Beans. They don't call it Beantown for naught. For it was in Boston that the notion of mixing dried beans with molasses was concieved and still reaches the peak of perfection.

Grannies Texas Beans. During hard times, beans have kept many Texans alive. For more than a few, the bean pot contained simply beans, salt, pepper, and maybe a little pork fat or bacon. You can go crazy with additions, but this is the classic, simple, home style recipe. When you visit classic Texas pitstops, beans are almost always on the menu, and outsiders, particularly Yankees, are often surprised to discover that they are simple and not sweet.

New Orleans Red Beans & Rice. In New Orleans, Sunday is traditionally ham night, and on Monday, wash day, the leftover ham and the ham bone are used to make Red Beans and Rice, a traditional Creole classic main dish that can be prepped quickly and needs several hours to simmer. It has been thus forever.

Kentucky Bourbon BBQ Baked Beans. Meathead's twist on the theme makes Baked Beans soooo much better than the stuff from the can. Bourbon is the secret.

Get More Meathead

Read more recipes, techniques, tips, product reviews, and reports from Meathead's kitchen and grill deck at AmazingRibs.com

Black-eyed peas' most popular expression is Hoppin' John, a steaming bowl of beans, rice, and pork especially popular in coastal South Carolina and Georgia. It probably originated with black slaves from the Caribbean brought in through Charleston around which there were large rice plantations. It is still very popular among the Gullah on the Carolina coastal islands where Hoppin' John is widely served on New Year's Day for good luck. It is believed that eating beans on New Year's Day will bring better eats in the year to come. According to one tradition, a coin is added to the pot and whoever gets the coin will get rich.

There are several poetic explanations for how the dish got its name. One claims that it got its name in the early 1800s when it was peddled on Charleston streets by a one-legged black man named John. Likewise there are a number of explanations for why beans symbolize good luck. Some ascribe their magical properties to fables like Jack And the Beanstalk, others call it a symbol of fertility, others say the black-eye saved the South from starvation during the Civil War.

I've kept this recipe simple and traditional, but there are numerous variations, so feel free to riff on it. I've been known to add red pepper and thyme. To modernize it, hold the green peppers until you add the rice to retain their brightness and crunch. In the original recipe the peppers kind of disintegrate. If you hold them until the end they add life.

Makes. 10 bowls
Preparation time. 3 hours

Ingredients
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 smoked ham hocks
1 green bell pepper, coarsely chopped
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, pressed or coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons hot pepper flakes
3 bay leaves
4 cups chicken broth
1 can (15 ounces) black-eyed peas, drained and rinsed or 1/4 pound dried beans
1 cup white rice
1/4 teaspoon table salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

About the ham hocks. Many grocers sell smoked ham hocks. They add flavor and a rich tactile sensation from the skin and connective tissue and the marrow which dissolve while it cooks. Some of them have very little meat. Select two with meat. If you can't find hocks, you can substitute 1/2 pound smoked ham, bacon, or leftover pulled pork.

Do this
1) Click here to read my article, The Zen of Beans, for tips on working with beans and equivalents for dry, canned, and cooked beans. Decide which you will use. If you plan to use dried beans, follow the instructions there for soaking them. If you plan to use canned beans, move on to the next step.

2) Get a large pot hot and add the oil. Add the ham hock, onion, green pepper, garlic, pepper flakes, and the bay leaf. If you can't find a ham hock, you can use bacon, just skip the vegetable oil and start by cooking the bacon in the bottom of the pot and pour off all the bacon grease except 2 tablespoons.

3) When the onions are limp, add the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Add the beans, bring back to a boil and dial it back to a simmer quickly. Do not boil for more than a minute or two. Simmer for at least an hour.

4) Remove the bay leaf and if you use ham hocks, cut off the meat, add it to the pot, and discard the bones and skin.

5) Add the rice and simmer with the cover on for about 25 minutes or until the rice is tender and most of the liquid is absorbed. Serve with salt and pepper at table. Hoppin' John gets a lift from fresh ground pepper at the table.

Do you have any New Year traditions involving food? Tell us about them!

All text and photos are Copyright (c) 2010 By Meathead, and all rights are reserved

For more of Meathead's writing, photos, and recipes, please visit his website AmazingRibs.com

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Around the world different cultures have their special traditions for welcoming the New Year and to ensure good luck. According to Jessica B. Harris in Wednesday's New York Times, "...
Around the world different cultures have their special traditions for welcoming the New Year and to ensure good luck. According to Jessica B. Harris in Wednesday's New York Times, "...
 
 
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09:09 AM on 01/04/2011
Black eyed peas and collard greens seasoned with hamhocks. The fried chicken was all "smothered and covered and covered and smothered" with a nice brown onion gravy. Smoked turkey seasoned peas and collards for me because momma knows I don't eat pork.
04:15 PM on 01/02/2011
Hey, Meathead, I've made Hoppin' John every New Years Day since I became an adult and got my own kitchen (that was in the Pleistocene age, I reckon). My kids were never great fans of black-eyed peas when they were young. But I always pulled at least one danged bean from the Hoppin' John for each of them and told them they had to eat it. They're very fond of it now, so it paid off. The greatest beauty of Hoppin' John is how it's a truly nutritious one-pot meal for any time of the year and you can even cook (I cringe) it as a vegetarian dish. I cringe because I'm a Virginia/North Carolina gal myself, where the motto is "If it don't have pork, it's inedible!" (Kidding, I made that up.) Maybe next year you can throw us a spoonbread recipe. That's another one that has these westerners, that I now live amongst, scratching their heads. Yet such a compliment to the beans/rice, greens, ham of my New Year celebrations!
YUM!!! And, thanks.
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notmzbehavin
12:14 PM on 01/02/2011
Just a post-script here: two days after I meant to cook them, and a little under 12 hours in the oven at 325F, and the beans aren't as crunchy. I think I'm wearing 'em down. Finishing cooking them has become a matter of principal. I hope this isn't a reflection of my coming year; if so, it's going to be interesting.

I strongly recommend (as does Mr. Goldwyn I believe) soaking for as long as possible before trying to cook them. The faster (!!) route doesn't work (for me anyway).
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
12:36 PM on 01/02/2011
I have been told that beans that never soften might be older beans. I guess they behave like people.
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
12:37 PM on 01/02/2011
I should clarify, by "older" I mean they have been in storage too long, not older on the vine.
10:34 AM on 01/02/2011
I live in NC now, and black eyed peas are the thing. We made a black eyed pea soup (which, if I do say so myself, was rockin'!). However, my grandmother could not ring in a new year without having creamed herring in the house and we were all forced to eat it. {shudders}

Happy new year all!
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
12:38 PM on 01/02/2011
Granny sounds like my kinda gal. I also love herring in wine sauce on ritz crackers or triscuits.
12:42 PM on 01/02/2011
You and my mother-in-law would get on great! There's a German brand of pickled herrings and sardines that she just adores.
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TaurusRose
just gimme some truth
02:04 AM on 01/02/2011
My favorite is the Italian tradition of eating shellfish on New Years Eve.
A very welcome high end tradition.
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Treehuggindirtworshiper
“Dum Spiro, spero- As long as I breathe, I hope.
09:08 AM on 01/02/2011
Unless, like me, you are allergic to shell fish. LOL!
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TaurusRose
just gimme some truth
01:01 AM on 01/03/2011
My sympathies Trehugshiper!
08:46 PM on 01/01/2011
We have black eyed peas, collard greens and cornbread on New Year's Day. Just had some, actually. When I was a kid, my mom would put a silver dime in it, and whoever got the dime with their peas would have a very lucky year.
10:36 AM on 01/02/2011
Love the tradition of the dime. Reminds me of the King's Cake for Mardi Gras.
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LMPE
I connect the most dissimilar things
07:10 PM on 01/01/2011
in my house, it's just black-eyed peas
05:42 PM on 01/01/2011
Or....(and there is still time to make this) fry some bacon, saute some onion in the drippings, add a can of black eye peas, stir in some rice. Season with red pepper, tobasco sauce and salt. It is a good close second and the good luck is the same.
10:37 AM on 01/02/2011
Oh yum! That's a nice alternative on say, a Tuesday, when you want a quick dinner!
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
12:39 PM on 01/02/2011
Anything with bacon is OK with me!
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crom14
05:38 PM on 01/01/2011
I make this Vegetarian style and it is yum!
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
12:40 PM on 01/02/2011
SHould be delish. I should have pointed that out. Beans dont need meat.
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Ozark Homesteader
http://ozarkhomesteader.wordpress.com
03:47 PM on 01/01/2011
I always thought that we ate black-eyed peas for luck with money, since they are like coins. At least, that's what my Southern relatives said. Hog jowl likewise symbolizes prosperity, and the green of greens are for cash. You've got to have greens! We've added dumplings and noodles from Asian tradition at our home.
http://ozarkhomesteader.wordpress.com/
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03:33 PM on 01/01/2011
While I love a good rice dish with beans( that were previously soaked in Bicarb), I just don't get the thrill out of this hopping thing. Its bland. Throw me a good Paella, or Risotto and I am in heaven. Hey, what else would you expect from an Italian?
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
09:48 PM on 01/01/2011
I think Hoppin' John is pretty boring, too, and I'm (at least by descent) Irish and Scottish, world axis of bland food.
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TaurusRose
just gimme some truth
02:05 AM on 01/02/2011
Shellfish on New Years Eve...
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ClearNSimple2012
01:33 PM on 01/01/2011
We need all the help we can get in the year 2011...so, we are going to have the traditional New Year's Day meal...⎨just to be on the safe side⎬plus, we love the food!

Good Housekeeping's Delish.com has an article by Meghan Ahearn, "Eat Yourself Lucky: Good Luck Foods for New Year's Day" that speaks of the tradition of eating black-eyed peas on January 1st, explaining, "A common good luck food in the southern United States, black-eyed peas are thought to bring prosperity, their shape and abundance representing coins." Other vegetables that are considered lucky are:

Lentils - They resemble coins and are thought to bring good fortune and represent growing wealth.
Greens (kale, collards) - Being the color of money, they are thought to bring wealth and prosperity.
Cabbage - Their leaves are representative of paper money!

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/2542721/new_years_day_food_traditions_and_superstitions.html?cat=22
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
12:43 PM on 01/02/2011
Thanks for the link!
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notmzbehavin
12:42 PM on 01/01/2011
We decided to have the beans today--and I forgot to soak them overnight. Does this mean they won't soften? I've tried the hour pre-boil thing and it never worked for me.

Are my bean-cooking plans doomed?
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03:34 PM on 01/01/2011
If you want to take the gas out of beans you must first soak ( over night) in 1 Tbs. baking soda to a large bowl of water. Rinse and repeat, and you won't have those issues.
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notmzbehavin
05:14 PM on 01/01/2011
Thank you but I was kinda looking more for getting the beans cooked. As it is, I did the best I could and the beans should be cooked this time next week.
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
12:45 PM on 01/02/2011
Sorry I didn't get to you sooner. I think the soaking is necessary. You can speed it up by simmering or pressure cooking (more on that in my link above to the "Zen of Beans"). But I have also been told that some beans never seem to soften, probably because they have been stored too long.
12:36 PM on 01/01/2011
I am not a huge fan of black eye peas so I like to make this 3 bean dip. It includes black eye peas and is very tasty
http://www.chili-everyway.com/easy-dip-recipes.html
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Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
12:45 PM on 01/02/2011
Love it!
12:01 PM on 01/01/2011
In our family it is always split pea soup on Jan. 1st, for as long as I can remember. So when I had a family of my own, we kept the traditon going. Happy New Year. May everyone have good health and lots of love.