Meet the pig. A very edible animal, its head is a veritable smorgasbord, containing 27 different meals. And, according to Michelin-starred chef Fergus Henderson, who tells Crane.tv how "it carries on being delicious and edible the whole way through."
We are in Spitalfields, London at the restaurant St John Bread and Wine. The Biblical allusions continue inside with a thoroughly monastic interior. Henderson describes it as anti-concept, "you meet and have your lunch, you make noise, there's talking and flowing wine. There's no art, no brass rails, no marble. So it's not really a concept at all, it's a place to have lunch."
Henderson earned renown and infamy with his nose to tail eating. If you are going to eat an animal, it is only polite to eat every part, from trotters to tripe. This initially garnered plenty of 'offal/awful' headlines in the media. "I'm not sure we should judge a paper by its puns but the pun Richter scale says that people are accepting more than they used to," Henderson says.
Ruddy-faced, Henderson looks happiest as he tucks into fried kidneys on bread. "It makes me happy when my glass is full, everyone's here, and they are all looking chirpy. Lunch makes me happy, family make me happy, fun and games, good wine... I think it's best to be happy."
Text by Tara Harrison for Crane.tv
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