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Lessons From the Egg Recall: Cheap Food Makes You Sick

Posted: 08/19/10 02:54 PM ET

Americans currently "enjoy" the cheapest animal protein in history. Such a monumental achievement could only have been attained through the industrialized mega-production of meat, milk and eggs -- which now cost about $1.56 on average for a large white dozen in the nation's supermarkets.

At just 13 cents apiece, even the poorest American can afford a two-egg omelet in the morning: It will set them back by less than four-percent of the Federal hourly minimum wage

But now Americans are finally coming to terms with the true cost of their wondrous 26-cent breakfasts: a gargantuan recall of mass-produced eggs -- 380 million of them -- contaminated with deadly salmonella bacteria. Hundreds of people have reportedly been sickened, and the true number could be higher.

The laying hens in question were raised (held prisoner is a more apt term) in Iowa, in a massive concentrated animal feeding operation (CAFO), better known as a factory farm. In the typical egg-laying CAFO, hens are crammed into battery cages and given room to move in an area that's roughly equivalent to a piece of typing paper.

Cages are stacked one on top of the other, sometimes 10 or more high, inside large confinements that never see the light of day. Fresh air is pumped into one end, and air fouled with bacteria, viruses, mold, dust, antibiotics, litter and dander spits out the other.

Residents of Florida, Arizona and California have already approved ballot measures that will ban battery cages for hens, and the government of Ohio recently completed major negotiations that will also stop the sickening practice there, as well.

The exact source of the salmonella bacteria now making headlines is not known, though some media reports suggest it may have been in the birds' feed. MSNBC also reported today that the hens' ovaries had been infected with salmonella, which in turn infected the eggs, and then the bargain-hungry shoppers -- and hotel and restaurant guests -- who ate the contaminated food.

Salmonella is largely a problem for factory-farmed eggs. Laying hens raised in organic or sustainable conditions are allowed to peck around outdoors for grubs and high-quality feed provided by farmers who are as concerned about animal health and the safety of the food they sell as they are about keeping their costs -- and prices -- to a minimum. These eggs are less likely to carry disease, and to me at least, they taste a whole lot better.

Even the FDA recognizes the risk from factory eggs. Last month, the agency issued a rule requiring mandatory "flock-based salmonella-control programs,' that include routine microbiologic testing -- for producers with more than 50,000 hens.

Since I began working on my book, Animal Factory, I started buying organic, humanely produced eggs in my supermarket. Yes they cost a lot more: $4.99 a dozen, or about 42 cents apiece. But an 84-cent omelet still seems like a good value to me, especially when I know that the animals were raised like animals are supposed to be raised, and that I'm supporting sustainable farming practices, and not CAFOs, with my limited consumer dollars. (Then again, I don't have a large family to feed, so it's admittedly easier for me).

What good is a 13-cent egg if it's going to get you hospitalized? And why isn't the federal government doing more to encourage and even subsidize the production of humanely-raised and less pathogenic eggs?

Instead, we are told we will have to learn to live with it. The FDA says to cook all eggs thoroughly, but I like my yolks runny and my omelets soft, thank you very much. And the FDA is also recommending that food service providers offer only pasteurized eggs and "egg products" (scrambled eggs in a box) at their establishments.

Of course, The Great American Egg Recall is terrific news for one sector of the staggering economy: egg pasteurizers.

But seriously: Have we really come to the point where we must disinfect our eggs before we consume them? Wouldn't it be better to focus on producing affordable eggs that won't kill you in the first place?

 
 
 
Americans currently "enjoy" the cheapest animal protein in history. Such a monumental achievement could only have been attained through the industrialized mega-production of meat, milk and eggs -- whi...
Americans currently "enjoy" the cheapest animal protein in history. Such a monumental achievement could only have been attained through the industrialized mega-production of meat, milk and eggs -- whi...
 
 
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09:11 PM on 08/29/2010
Yes, yes, yes.... thanks for the thoughts. How about we raise our own hens. See: http://bit.ly/av5I56
10:08 AM on 08/25/2010
I am lucky enough to have a small flock of chickens that, for the past two years, I have been getting eggs from. My chickens are are real characters . . . they each have distinctive personalities, likes and dislikes, and attitudes. They free range in a large, secured covered run and on the weekends get to free range all across our 5 acre property and they love it!! When winter comes, the girls slow down egg production and quit all together, allowing their bodies to rest from all the work it takes to produce eggs for us. After getting to know the girls and their behaviors there is no way that someone can convince me that the battery birds are happy birds. And unhappy birds are unhealthy birds.

I haven't eaten store bought eggs since I started with my own backyard flock, but I will be the first to admit that my eggs cost a hell of a lot more than the factory eggs. But life is about choice. Personally I would rather pay more for my eggs and farm fresh produce, and maybe cut out the luxuries like soda and trips to Starbucks, which I did a long time ago.
01:01 AM on 08/25/2010
State-by-state bans on "battery" eggs just force consumers to pay higher prices for these eggs trucked in from neighboring states without such bans. A national ban would just increase egg imports from Canada and Mexico, again, at a higher price.

And how is a family of three or four supposed to afford eggs from "pastured" chickens that cost anywhere $5 (your price) to $8 (price in the Bay Area of CA)/doz? Given the record U.S. unemployment (Shadowstatistics.com puts the real unemployment rate at 22%), the economic uncertainty of Americans in these times, healthy food just costs too much. My prediction is that most families will rationally decide to go without eggs at all, either for price or health risk reasons. Those who watch "Food, Inc." might become vegetarians, given the price of healthy meats.
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nightwind928
10:11 PM on 08/24/2010
Every so often a big story about tainted food hits the media, who takes great joy in blowing it up to seem like the end of the world. The organic foodies then leap at the chance to wag their fingers and pontificate on their views. There are problems in our food source, without question, but when you take into consideration how much food is consumed by Americans, day after day, every day, without any problems what so ever, you begin to see the percentages. If it's not good for us then we have to make the conscious decision, individually, to change our eating habits. We eat what we want, very cheaply, because it's what we demand in our society. It isn't financially prudent for most families in todays troubled economic times to buy five dollar tomatoes because their "organically grown" and trendy. Better oversight and stricter control of political lobbying and generous gifts by the food business to greedy politicians to protect the status quo is probably the answer, not free range chickens, alfalfa sprouts and tofu.
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urbangal
02:20 PM on 08/24/2010
''And why isn't the federal government doing more to encourage and even subsidize the production of humanely-raised and less pathogenic eggs?''

The answer to that is simple: Because "big food" and "corporate farms" line the pockets of our elected officials, that's why.
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stevendedalus3
12:04 PM on 08/24/2010
"Yes they cost a lot more: $4.99 a dozen, or about 42 cents apiece. But an 84-cent omelet still seems like a good value to me" yes, but not to a family of four or six. The government has to weed out the snob appeal of these organic freaks and protect the general consumer.
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urbangal
02:27 PM on 08/24/2010
I happen to be a "snobby organic freak" who thinks that organic food should be available and affordable to everyone, even families of four or six.

Do these smaller organic farms get subsidized the way corporate farms do? No. Why? Because the subsidy is based on acreage and not actual need.

Ultimately, "cheap food" will cost us dearly in the end. Already we see people and the earth getting poisoned by factory farming all in the name of "cheap food."

If you haven't seen Food, Inc., I highly recommend it. Very informative without being condescending.
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stevendedalus3
02:20 PM on 08/25/2010
Subsidies or not, we can't turn back the clock anymore than returning to the days when the milklman delivered dairy to our door. Strong punitive measures--as with all diconnected corporatins--must be perpetrated to shake up some humanity into these corporate bodies.
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urbangal
02:30 PM on 08/24/2010
Oh, and the other reason we're being poisoned is that these corporate farms and our elected officials are incapable of thinking beyond next quarters profits.
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hjalmar
May the dawn soon come.
11:09 AM on 08/24/2010
Watch great interview with Kirby on Democracy Now today:

http://www.democracynow.org/
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Ipanemagirl
progressive
11:08 AM on 08/24/2010
I think everybody should get a free tour to an animal factory where we get our eggs and meat and then decide if they can continue supporting this horrendous torturous production of food that most of us eat without thinking how it was produced and what suffering has gone into it.
I now prefer to buy the more expensive eggs chicken and meat even if it means eating less of it , and its made my diet healthier and my soul lighter. To me it was hard to live with myself knowing I was supporting a holocaust style cruel practice to raise innocent animals in misery, just so I could eat cheap and unhealthy meat. I wish they would just shut down those factories and go back to good old fashioned farming, where animals can be in a pasture get sunlight and live a more natural, good life before being humanely killed.Its the least we can do when we are already exploiting them for our use.
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10:53 AM on 08/24/2010
Very good interview on DN! today.

http://www.democracynow.org/2010/8/24/david_kirby_on_the_looming_threat
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Katie Young
06:10 AM on 08/24/2010
Wouldn't it be better to just not use animals for food at all?
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Ipanemagirl
progressive
11:09 AM on 08/24/2010
yes it would , but theres too many people that would disagree, so tht wont work, as long as we have such a huge population, we cannot convince the masses that this is bad and wrong.
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nightwind928
10:23 PM on 08/24/2010
no
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Craig2
Living in the great State of Jefferson
12:53 AM on 08/24/2010
Recall when America was the Worlds food basket?
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Craig2
Living in the great State of Jefferson
12:50 AM on 08/24/2010
Greedy American Capitalist Corporations created this mess. The have poisoned our food supply for greed of profit. And, they most likely received a tax break while doing it. But, leave the Government out of this. This is Corporate Capitalism Greed just like the poison peanut products in 2008. Salt of the earth American Capitalist selling poison into the market. I do not understand any capitalist who is willing to destroy the very market that creates profits for a little more profit. Where did these guys go to school? Where do these guys go to church? How do they possibly walk down the streets of the communities where they live?

I still recommend crunchy peanut butter on over easy eggs. Just don't tell the yoke police.” repost
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MaryBethC3
11:10 PM on 08/23/2010
The lesson here is not so much about cost as it is about the need for stricter regulations. These particular eggs came from a big industry that had a long history of safety violations. "Long history of safety violations" ring any bells?......same was true of BP. Be it eggs or oil, ice cream or corn, we cannot trust Big Corps to self-regulate. They care only about profits.

Being so, more strict regulations are necessary. Many people cannot afford the $4.99/dozen. It's not an option for them! If big industries and other Big Corps aren't accountable for safety, it's up to us to make them so.

President Clinton's strict food industry regulations were virtually wiped out by GWBush. Go figure.
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SuperMom101
What's on your plate?
05:01 PM on 08/23/2010
What happens to all the recalled eggs?

Best health always,
SuperMom101
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Craig2
Living in the great State of Jefferson
12:51 AM on 08/24/2010
Brownie mix.
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nightwind928
10:21 PM on 08/24/2010
If you see the price of Egg Mc Muffins drop substantially, you'll know.
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04:53 PM on 08/22/2010
Thank you for this information and the work in your book, Animal Factory. I think that, belated for me, the lesson is that "cheap" food may end up being the more costly in the end.

One of my daughters and I can not tolerate eggs, among other foods (this may have something to do with "cheap" dental work, vaccinations, and other sources of pollution--I wonder if these sticky protein foods tend to pick up and transport harmful substances at a higher concentration than other foods?). I do try to buy organic or cage-free when we make a special breakfast for the egg eaters in the family or for company, but I'm afraid we are unable to be significant supporters of the farmers who raise their birds this way.