I have a confession to make: Despite the fact that I host professional tastings and write about food, I've started to avoid restaurants that only offer four- or more-course tasting menus. When I do have a reservation at such an establishment, I'm often nervous in advance, wary that I'll feel trapped and stuck, rather than free and comfortable.
Perhaps that's because four- or more-course tasting menus can amount to a form of torture. Sounds dramatic, but that's how I feel. First off, during such a meal, you're constantly interrupted by waiters and served dish upon dish, so ultimately, the food becomes the focus, to the detriment of conversation about other topics. As my husband sometimes points out, he loves to eat out, but doesn't want the entire meal to revolve around what's on our plates -- to him, the conversation and company are more important. Neither does he want our entire evening spent at a restaurant -- definitely the case with four-hour-long tasting menus.
Furthermore, four or more courses, not to mention the extras (amuse bouches at the start of the meal and mignardises at the very end), is just too much. With so many dishes, I eat -- and pay for -- way more food than I need (scientists have proven that humans consume more when a larger quantity of food is placed on their plates). By the time the meal concludes, I can barely breathe -- or move, so weighted down am I by the food. I try to limit what I eat, but then feel guilty leaving so much artful, delicious, and pricey fare on my plate.
Don't get me wrong. I'm not one to deprive myself or police calories. However, I do consider myself an epicurean: I love to be comfortable as much as possible, both during and after a meal. Post-tasting menu, I'm usually not feeling my best. In fact, I feel as if I could never eat again.
Chefs and restaurants should realize that, with so much food, diners won't appreciate each dish as much. Art museums with copious white wall space and boutiques with minimal merchandise know what they're doing. They realize that each painting or skirt shines more when there are fewer overall items competing for people's attention.
For all of the above reasons, a la carte menus make the most sense -- just as purchasing individual knives, rather than knife sets, is a good move. There's no reason to pay for -- and take up valuable space, whether stomach or counter -- with stuff you just don't need.
Maybe with Americans' newfound interest in paring down, elaborate tasting menus will soon become a thing of the past. If so, I know that I, for one, will not miss them.