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Ellen Kanner

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Cauliflower Pasta: Meatless Monday

Posted: 12/05/11 08:21 AM ET

When I write the words season to taste in a recipe, I'm not doing it for my own pleasure. I'm doing it for yours. I care about your pleasure because one of the most radical take-back-the-planet-and-your life things you can do is prepare your own meatless meals. But nobody will, unless it's easy and tastes good.

Eating is an intimate act. A recipe is a guideline, a template, but only you know how much seasoning you like in any given dish. Or, what I fear is, you don't know. We've lost the everyday art of cooking, and worse, we've lost the ability to taste our food. We have become estranged from our own tastebuds.

I blame industrialized food on both counts. It's given us an alternative to preparing our own food, but oy, what an alternative. It encourages industrialized, mindless eating by pumping out the processed eats that are such a big, fat part of the American diet. That salty/fatty/sweet flavor combination we love? Food manufacturers love it, too, because it turns consumers into eating machines who don't question what the food is doing to us or the environment. It turns us into junkies. Junkies are not good decision makers. Or rather, they're good at deciding all they want is more junk, so you eat more pepperoni pizza, even though it's the carbon equivalent of driving your car for 5 weeks and contributes to America's favorite triple-threat of obesity, diabetes and heart disease. Even the USDA suggests we walk away from processed food and meat and bump up whole grains, beans, fruits and vegetables.

Great idea, but if you're hard-wired for pepperoni pizza and other mega-flavored processed foods, fresh cauliflower is a hard sell. That's why so many chefs are smitten with what's seasonal. It's the no-brainer natural way to impart big flavors -- they're already there in the food. The bright, green flavors of spring's fresh baby produce are best enjoyed in their pristine naked form or teased out with the first herbs of spring. If only the hearty vegetables of winter got spring produce's great pr. They should. Like all produce that grows in the here and now, they offer the fullest flavor and life force.

Armed with a little seasonal produce, fifteen minutes and a few other cheap ingredients you probably have on hand, you can fight industrial evil, enlighten yourself and create a meal that puts pepperoni pizza in the shade.

Cooking, as with so much of life, is all about timing. Flavors and textures develop as you cook, so have a taste here and there. Tasting as you go means you know just at what point a dish is right to you.

I like to add spices early in the cooking to infuse the food, while fresh herbs enhance a dish when you add them towards the end -- their flavors and colors stay bright. Salting during the cooking process means the sodium absorbs into the food -- and you -- and gets lost on the way to you palate. I prefer to salt food right before serving, when just a little adds a pop of flavor. Give it a try it and see what works best for you. You'll have dinner, and you and your tastebuds can get to know each other again.

You don't need to have your own cable network cooking show to put a great meal together, you don't need a sous vide. You just how to know what you like.

Cauliflower Pasta

Rediscover cauliflower. It's in season now and it's not all tasteless and white. There's lots of heirloom varieties in a rainbow of colors, like the orange one I got at my farmers market. But even your standard white cauliflower works in this recipe, where the vegetable becomes the sauce.

1 cauliflower
2 tablespoons olive oil*
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 generous pinch red pepper flakes (how generous is up to you -- season to taste, remember?)
1/2 cup white wine
12 ounces whole wheat penne
handful fresh chopped parsley
sea salt to taste

Steam cauliflower for 20 minutes or until it's snowy and falling apart.

Heat olive oil in a large pot. Add chopped garlic and red pepper flakes. Stir for about 4 minutes, until pepper flakes sizzle and garlic is golden and fragrant. Add steamed cauliflower and mash the whole business. Add the wine and stir to combine, creating a thick, blankety sauce. Season with sea salt.

You can puree it into silkiness with an immersion blender or with a food processor, but to me, a rustic imperfection is part of its charm. Either way, it's delicious.

Make pasta according to package directions. Toss with cauliflower sauce and cook over medium heat until heated through, five minutes tops. Top with chopped parsley. And, you know, season to taste.

*Note to nonvegans. You can substitute butter for the olive oil, which makes things quite luscious indeed. Top with fresh grated Parmesan.

Serves 4.

 

Follow Ellen Kanner on Twitter: www.twitter.com/edgyveggie1

When I write the words season to taste in a recipe, I'm not doing it for my own pleasure. I'm doing it for yours. I care about your pleasure because one of the most radical take-back-the-planet-and-...
When I write the words season to taste in a recipe, I'm not doing it for my own pleasure. I'm doing it for yours. I care about your pleasure because one of the most radical take-back-the-planet-and-...
 
 
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12:54 PM on 12/06/2011
Don't substitute olive with butter, use Earth Balance. It has a buttery flavor even non vegetarians like and is made from vegetable oils. I like to mix it up, olive oil and Earth Balance, when I sauté to get a richer flavor.
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Karl Wilder
11:45 AM on 12/06/2011
...and whole wheat pasta tastes pretty disgusting with any sauce. Use semolina.
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Karl Wilder
11:45 AM on 12/06/2011
To make this recipe even better roast the cauliflower. The browning adds a dimension to the taste that steaming cannot. I also add anchovies but that would ruin the meatless idea.
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Halsey
"There is a price to pay for speaking the truth. T
11:05 AM on 12/06/2011
This sounds easy (important for me..as I lost my former good cook gift a few years ago...I blame chemo for everything..oh well).. But..I'm gluten "sensitive"..not to the celiac extreme. Thank goodness I've found very good rice pastas (even my favorite Angel Hair!). So you gluten intolerant folks..you may have to look hard unless there's a Whole Foods or it's equivalent in your city); but also the internet has sites to buy pasta with zero gluten. Anyway, I assume any pasta shape could work, love the pepper flakes!..and yes, I would definitiely splurge on a very good parmasean...shave it myself (lots of it since that's MY taste). I assume one should use Italian parsley..not that bitter stuff on the side of every IHOP dinner :-). I just might try this recipe! Thanks!.
10:29 AM on 12/06/2011
You mean substitute olive oil for butter, right?
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09:52 PM on 12/05/2011
Mmmmm, sounds good.
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ljmck
Stand Up, Show Up, Speak Up
02:38 PM on 12/05/2011
Wow, three paragraphs of self-righteousness. But the recipe looks good. Hope the flavor of I-know-so-much-more-than-you isn't too strong in the finished dish.
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portfolio
money is the barometer of a society's virtue
11:34 AM on 12/06/2011
"We've lost the everyday art of cooking, and worse, we've lost the ability to taste our food. We have become estranged from our own tastebuds."

Not seeing your point.
01:40 PM on 12/05/2011
Love vegis, but I hate cauliflower with a passion it tastes like dirt. Would rather have broccoli
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09:58 PM on 12/05/2011
Dirt, really? It's really good with a little cheddar cheese sauce.
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sabelmouse
my micro bio is emty
11:58 AM on 12/06/2011
i often prefer broccoli too. nor would i cook cauliflower this long. i like it al dente . the flavour is much better then. cooking it that long doesn't usually bring out the best.
also frozen never tastes good.
get a really fresh one, divide into small floweretes try it steamed just a few minutes. it should be sweet and fresh.
12:19 PM on 12/05/2011
Bookmarked and I'm so making this recipe. It's amazing to see how the vegan/vegetarian cooking world has changed so much in the few years I've been in it. This is just the sort of creativity vegan and vegetarian cooks keep cranking out that makes being part of it so exciting.
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Don Clanton
Tough is not enough but it's a good start
12:08 PM on 12/05/2011
Any kind of pasta gets my attention.
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karen lyons kalmenson
i poem/paint, sometimes, i ain't
08:41 AM on 12/05/2011
this sounds delicious...and now i am so hungry i will have to eat another breakfast

there goes the diet i never started;-D