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Ellen Kanner

Ellen Kanner

Posted: December 6, 2010 12:30 PM

Welcome to Day 5 of Hanukkah, an eight-day holiday which commemorates the time in Jerusalem a couple thousand years ago when the Brothers Maccabee led the Jews to take their temple back from the enemy, beat back oppressors and stuff like that. And then there's the miracle. The whole Hanukkah megillah, if you will, is that while the Jews only had a day's worth of lamp oil for the temple light, through some miracle, it lasted eight -- a miracle of sustainability.

Miracles are great. But we can't count on them. Too bad, because it's going to take a miracle for us to sustain ourselves going forward. All over the world, we're busy pumping our dwindling oil supply into beef production. According to Standford University study, global meat production has tripled in the past three decades, and will keep the pace going in order to keep up with mankind's insatiable desire to eat animals.

Back in the Maccabees' day, the food that fed the world wasn't meat, it was barley. A complex carb before anyone knew or cared about such things, barley goes back some 6,000 years and is one of our first cultivated crops.

Sometimes called the poor man's wheat, it's cheap and easy to grow. An acre's yield of barley feeds a lot more people than an acre feedlot for cattle, is kinder to the environment than raising livestock, and more humane besides. It allows us to feed ourselves without eating up our resources. It allows us to be sustainable And it makes us look good as a civilization. In Near a Thousand Tables, a cultural history of food, author Felipe Fernandez-Armesto calls the cultivation of barley and other grains "among the most spectacular achievements of humankind." Not bad.

It's hard to imagine future food historians will say the same thing about the way we produce food now.

There's no putting the genii back in the bottle, there's no going back in time to an all-agrarian world. But returning to growing more sustainable food, like barley, wouldn't hurt. Usually labelled pearled barley -- barley with part of its fibrous hull stripped away -- it's in your market along with the dried beans and grains. A pound of barley costs just a buck or two, has an almost meaty chew, a subtly nutty taste and fills the belly -- lots of bellies, actually.

Barley's heartier than rice, but just as versatile and its texture gives it a certain stylishness. Russians traditionally serve mushroom barley soup at Hanukah. It also makes a rich risotto, works as a pilaf with your favorite vegetables or as a grainy main course salad. You can even bake with it. Barley flour (ground barley) makes for a denser loaf than wheat flour, but barley bread's been around since the Maccabees -- and they did all right.

I'm not saying swapping barley for beef is going to save the world. But it might be one of a number of actions that leads us back to a more sustainable path. Besides, barley has a way of bringing everyone together -- it's what beer is made from, after all. It's a big player in the Old Testament's Book of Ruth, and in the New Testament, barley feeds 5,000 people in John 6. In these divisive days, it's a grain even Jews and Christians can agree on. That alone makes barley a natural miracle.

Barley With Tapenade

Barley is filling and comforting besides, with a chewy, density even carnivores can sink their teeth into. Here the goodness of the grain gets played up with tapenade, a sexy black olive paste.

1-1/2 cups barley
3-1/2 cups vegetable broth or water.
1/3 cup tapenade*
1/4 cup white wine
3 cloves garlic
1 onion
1/2 pint whole grape tomatoes or 1/2 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half
8 ounces mushrooms
2 cups spinach
1 large handful parsley
salt and pepper

In a large pot, bring broth or water to boil over high heat. Add barley and cover, reduce heat to simmer. Cook for 45 minutes, until barley is tender and most liquid is absorbed.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 425. Chop onion and garlic, then spread them on rimmed baking sheet or in a roasting pan. Add tomatoes. Mix in 2 tablespoons of the tapenade and roast for 30 minutes. Stirring occasionally.

Remove sheet from oven. Add spinach gently add handfuls of spinach to barley, so that it wilts. Add tomato and onions, vegetables to barley and stir in remaining tapenade and wine.

Add chopped parsley, season with salt and pepper.

Serves 6.

*black olive paste available in most gourmet food stores and some supermarkets

 
Welcome to Day 5 of Hanukkah, an eight-day holiday which commemorates the time in Jerusalem a couple thousand years ago when the Brothers Maccabee led the Jews to take their temple back from the enemy...
Welcome to Day 5 of Hanukkah, an eight-day holiday which commemorates the time in Jerusalem a couple thousand years ago when the Brothers Maccabee led the Jews to take their temple back from the enemy...
 
 
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12:05 PM on 01/11/2011
Or check out "The Indian Slow Cooker" that is hidden in the Crockery Section at the bookstore. Nearly all vegan, she has the CHEAPEST, EASIEST, and HEALTHIEST recipes available. When I walk in the house now, it smells like a Punjabi Princess has been slaving over the stove all day. I cannot believe that all I have to do is dump some DRIED and UNSOAKED beans in the slow cooker, add some spices, and PUSH A BUTTON. It's crazy. I am blogging about many of the recipes in her book and also will start Ani Phyo's "Raw Food Essentials" (this is all raw, but easy, but certainly slightly more expensive ingredients than the slow cooker book.

www.getskinnygovegan.blogspot.com
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DavidMG
OWS Senior
07:34 PM on 12/07/2010
Need vegetarian inspiration? Check out "American Wholefoods Cuisine" Dubbed the "veg Joy of Cooking" You won't believe the comments on amazon.
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riversideliberal
03:49 PM on 12/07/2010
to those arguing that an all-vegetarian diet would be bad for the planet, because (I guess) it would use too much land for crops... you're kidding, right???

you know that raising a cow takes a huge amount of land, right? land for crops, land for housing the cow (in barbaric conditions), land for its rotting manure and the filthy run-off from the slaughterhouse....

it is much more efficient, in terms of land and water usage, to raise soy or barley or other protein-rich legumes instead of raising food for cows

also, the burps and farts of modern-fed cows and pigs are a huge part of the damage we're doing to the environment; they are not designed for the feed we give them, and they produce far more methane now than they did 100 years ago, per animal....
12:26 AM on 12/08/2010
Judging by your comment, I'd say you have no experience in farming or gardening. Pastured livestock uses water much more efficiently than row crops. The run-off on a plowed field isn't much better than a parking lot. Beside, most of the fruits and vegetables consumed in North America are grown in arid regions where rainfall is scarce and irrigation is necessary.

Few regions can support large-scale plant cultivation all year long. Many regions can't support any large-scale plant cultivation. By comparison, most regions can support livestock farming on a large-scale.

There is also evidence that grazing ruminents improves the land. Perhaps you'll find these articles interesting. This is from Mother Earth News.
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Sustainable-Farming/Grass-Fed-Meat-Benefits.aspx

These articles describe how grazing large ruminents can turn deserts green.
http://seedmagazine.com/content/article/Greener_Pastures/
http://www.fastcompany.com/1655491/plan-to-turn-deserts-green-wins-2010-buckminster-fuller-challenge

Here's an interesting take on livestock and air pollution.
http://www.grist.org/article/2009-08-07-debunking-meat-climate-change-myth/

This study found that dairy cows produce half the amount of air pollution that was previous estimated. (We can assume the same applies to beef cattle.)
http://news.ucdavis.edu/search/news_detail.lasso?id=7263

As for how much land is required to raise one steer, I believe the answer is one acre. Besides, it's not like cattle are the only source for meat.
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Leslie Robinson Goldberg
Writer
11:36 PM on 12/06/2010
A lot of folks think vegans are weak. Turns out that the gladiators ate mostly barley. In fact they were called "the barley men."
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jumbotron16
a slight improvement over jumbotron15
12:27 PM on 12/07/2010
What does that have to do with vegans? Vegans eat NO animal products. That's never happened in history before, because without supplementation and fortified foods, it wouldn't work.
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thrugreeneyez
01:43 PM on 12/07/2010
Yes, we've evolved to a point where we no longer have to kill animals for food if you live in a modern industrial society. Isn't that great?
"Nothing will benefit mankind and our chances for survival more than the evolution to a vegetarian diet." Albert Einstein
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deweydecimal
@DeweyMai on Twitter
12:43 PM on 12/07/2010
That's what they ate because they were slaves and given the chaff to eat like animals, doesn't that cross your mind? And if you're fighting for your life in the Roman bread and circus machine, I would posit to you that anyone would be "strong". What a nonsensical post.
10:24 PM on 12/06/2010
I was in Scotland once..at a folk festival at a major university..and had some of their barley soup..from just a college cafeteria. It was so tasty I have never forgotten it. I don't know if it was beef or lamb. Maybe someone knows a good recipe. mg
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deweydecimal
@DeweyMai on Twitter
12:53 PM on 12/07/2010
It was probably mutton which is hard to find in North America although there has been a push to re-establish it. Stocks went down because prices were just not sustainable for many farmers + the industrial triumvirate of beef chicken & pork really closed the market on many other meat stocks.

A pound of mutton bones should be enough to make a nice pot of soup, it has a strong flavour. Throw in an onion, carrot & celery for the stock with a bay leaf, a clove of garlic and some thyme and rosemary since it goes so well with mutton. Fish them out when the stock is done and pick apart the meat to go back into the pot, skim fat (personally I leave it in for flavour & the rustic touch). Then add barley to start cooking while you chop up carrots and mushrooms to throw in. Add a little tomato paste or canned crushed tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Cook until tender and you're done.

I make lentil soup every week with basically the same plan and using either a stewing chicken or beef marrow bones. You can vary the veggies too, chopped watercress and beets is tasty.
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Mirabai305
Are you Jeff Vader?
11:47 PM on 12/07/2010
Heavens, that sounds fabulous! Thanks for sharing.
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Ann Joyce
Already going to hell, just pumping the gas
09:30 PM on 12/06/2010
Thanks so much, looks and sounds delish...........
06:01 PM on 12/06/2010
I really like barley, but its especially nice in soup as a substitute for rice or macaroni, both of which tend to turn to mush when simmered in broth for a long time. Yum yum, I've really been enjoying the meatless recipes featuring unusual or overlooked grains, like last week's millet recipe. I have a feeling that this barley recipe is going to be a keeper.
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Ragnar Danneskjold
Defender of Liberty
03:28 PM on 12/06/2010
I am not sure meatless mondays should apply to meat provided by hunting. Tonight my friends and I will enjoy venison backstrap medallions sauteed in garlic, red wine and worcestershire covered in a blueberry confit. The animal was expired during legal hunting hours just 2 days ago.
02:12 AM on 12/09/2010
Funny. I had the exact same thing last night. On the side I had potato cakes topped with venison breakfast sausage.

It's good to be a hunter...
02:43 PM on 12/06/2010
Another magnificent sounding MEATLESS MONDAY recipe...thanks for posting it! I'd forgotten about barley...have been consuming brown/red/black rice, couscous and quinoa recently. I'm definitely going to try it again.

Happy Holiday cooking, Ellen!
02:27 PM on 12/06/2010
Let's hear it for barley. I got tired of the increasing prices of Granola (for breakfast) and so I bought a pressure cooker and make 6 breakfasts at one time with organic barley and some raisins and blueberries added. Tastes great and is probably healthier too.
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deweydecimal
@DeweyMai on Twitter
12:41 PM on 12/07/2010
You should try steelcut oats in the slowcooker. Chop up some bananas and stir in some almond butter and brown sugar yum.
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HLL
My little dog — a heartbeat at my feet ^..^
02:09 PM on 12/06/2010
I love Monday Mondays. Keep up the great work! Happy Holiday season to you ☮
mothergrace
If they knock you down, bite 'em on the ankle.
02:09 PM on 12/06/2010
Humans NEVER lived in an all agrarian world.

It is a complete fallacy that an entirely plant based diet will save the environment, in fact, it is quite the contrary.

The Jewish diet during biblical times also included meat, although not daily, and fish as well as dairy. It was not completely plant based.
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Leslie Robinson Goldberg
Writer
11:46 PM on 12/06/2010
We're not in biblical times anymore. The fish (what's left of them) in our oceans, lakes and rivers are toxic and animal agribusiness is devastating the planet. Time to come up with a Plan B. I'm a very healthy vegan. All the major health organizations from the American Medical Association to the National Institutes on Health say it's quite possible to eat a healthy vegan diet. If you just can't do vegan, at least cut back for the sake of the next generation.
mothergrace
If they knock you down, bite 'em on the ankle.
11:55 PM on 12/06/2010
My main point was that historically humans are omnivores. We were never vegetarians or vegans.

As far as the next generation goes, while I will forego certain items such as over fished sea food a diet that truly cares for the next generation will have sustainable plants and animals in it.

The earth cannot be saved if it is covered in crops.
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sabelmouse
i love to tumble , ask me why .
07:33 AM on 12/08/2010
all agribusiness is devastating the planet.
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thrugreeneyez
01:45 PM on 12/07/2010
Really so the lead scientists from the United Nations are wrong? Sorry buy your views are the fallacious ones.
mothergrace
If they knock you down, bite 'em on the ankle.
03:14 PM on 12/07/2010
If you are referring to the UN report, "Livestock's Long Shadow," this report has had serious questions regarding its methodology and they are currently reworking the comparison models so they are equivalent.

The original assessment indicated cattle raising produced more methane than worldwide transportation because too many factors were not counted in the transport figures. Accurate assessments are needed if we ever hope to get anywhere.

http://www.theregister.co.uk/2010/03/23/veggie_planet_saver_scheme_rubbished/

http://ilriclippings.wordpress.com/tag/livestocks-long-shadow/

Also, rice production produces more methane than cows and yet no one ever suggests we stop producing rice.

http://www.ghgonline.org/methanerice.htm

http://www.time.com/time/health/article/0,8599,1953751,00.html