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Emanuel Ungaro

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What Does It Mean to Be a Couturier?

Posted: 01/30/2012 2:00 pm

It is often difficult for me to evoke the work that I do, because it does not have any written rules -- it is more of a professional moral code; a personal ethic enhanced by communication with the outside world. (It is a work of promoting ideas in order to develop a style whose permanence will be recognized through its own unique vocabulary and language.)

It is also about not complying with popular beliefs. Willed ambiguity shapes and nurtures all of my thought processes, which, when translated into action, leads to diversity and surprises. In this way, I can generate "terra incognita" in my own mental universe.

Rule number one: ignore petrified conventions in order to preserve style's power to discern and innovate. Creators, lest they become fragile and nervous, must learn to emerge unscathed from the cruel and beautiful work which so often subjects them to the judgments of others. They must learn to respond with fierce determination: to follow their passionate discourse in anticipation of desire and expectation.

But how does one build an architecture of style? Style is a personal morality, an ethics of behavior with a rich vocabulary, ripe with coding. It is flexible, and subject to the undulations of popular thought that tend toward an absolute notion of creativity. The world of colors, shapes, intuition, spontaneity, charm, emotion, the dreams of youth, all memories of events, places, loves, faces, disappointments, and flashes of happiness -- they are all a part of style. The magic and jubilation when everything seems possible, when we don't have to force our talents because why add vanity to what we already understand.

All past creative thoughts exert a mysterious influence over us, a sort of fascination of emotions -- we are often surprised to discover ourselves in what we have done. This business is not an art, but like art, it has no rules, no laws except extreme precision and extreme discipline. It is ruled by the duty to be scrupulously faithful to oneself, with rigorous and intellectual honesty.

Style opens the doors of dreams, of the Baroque, of all exoticism, the disruption of established facts, and lyrical illusion. It is about developing hostility towards all the ridiculous clichés of what is chic, and towards the academic school for its lack of passion and imagination. It is about remaining hostile towards the accumulation of details and accessories hat try in vain to make up for their lack of creativity.

Abolish the art of pageantry which tries to force success through artifice and childish accidents. Abolish the art of deception that favors clever constructs over real worth.

Style reflects a moral position and shape creates a personal aesthetic. In both, it is important to maintain independence of thought and action.

It's about creating an aesthetic of existence, about creating one's self by turning one's work into an art of life and treating one's life as a work of art. To do this one must invent oneself through one's work, through determined action. This produces a sort of vertigo. It requires harmony and action.

"In every work, chaos must through through from behind the veil of order" (Novalis). It is with imagination and fervor that we must showcase the diversity and modernity of this business. That is both its nobility and its fragility.

I like to quote Sigmund Freud: "After thirty years of researching the feminine soul, there is one matter which I have never been able to answer -- What do woman want?" It's a question with no answer but rather an imperative to look for new reasons to hope.

So, how to remain both eternal and absolute? Maybe adhere to the requirements made by an individual morality, an ethics of behavior. We must make masterpieces out of our lives because "we only fight for causes after which we model ourselves, for which we burn, because we identify with them" (René Char). We must acknowledge that fragility and anxiety feed on poetry. Thus there is glory at the height of appearance. It is style which introduces our moral position.

"Luxury is a problem of means, elegance is one of of education."

Être Couturier ?

 
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Akla
Leave No Trace, Just a Good Impression
01:52 PM on 02/01/2012
What you are: "A couturier (French: [ku.ty.Êje]) is an establishment or person involved in the clothing fashion industry who makes original garments to order for private clients." In other words, a clothing designer. But you speak the truth when you say: "It is a work of promoting ideas in order to develop a style whose permanence will be recognized through its own unique vocabulary and language." for without the elitist jargon your work would be nothing but clothes and the rich would get their egos stroked elsewhere. Watching those wretched anorexic mishappen girls parade down the runway in horrific, all look the same, couture evokes the image of a dead world where humans are reduced to simply going through the motions while time marches on. What a joke, what a scam, what a method of showing how gullible and stupid the wealthy are. The value of modern art and clothing design is not in the "art" but in the descriptive jargon surrounding it. Oh look! An artist in a top hat with a boom box--he must have something important to say.
02:29 PM on 01/31/2012
This article left me speechless; indeed all I can think of doing is getting back to the studio to create who knows what or how - but it is there and we see it or we do not. Both are possible, and both are legitimate ways of seeing which must be shared. This piece encourages, irritates, unnerves, confuses and pushes me...to get back to life as a drawing board from which to begin, again. Thank-you for the article and thank-you to all those who have left a comment.
Best wishes,

Miriam Aziz
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fanofariana
Rooting for Obama
08:41 PM on 01/30/2012
Absolutely ADORE your designs and have had some of them for many many years.
07:04 PM on 01/30/2012
Does M Ungaro come with a decoder? My best shot at translating that was "to be a great designer you have to think outside the box and then, when you do, come up with a garment that combines innovation and looking nice". Sounds a lot less posh when I say it, no?
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Ergon
Man From Atlan
04:59 PM on 01/30/2012
I know couture when I see it. Don't need no words, but still, thanks for sharing.
lightnessandjoy
Is micro-bio a new disease?
03:54 PM on 01/30/2012
You folks have absolutely no taste or sense of humor. You put up this garbage than can comments for calling it what it is. LOL.
lightnessandjoy
Is micro-bio a new disease?
03:21 PM on 01/30/2012
What does it mean? You have a "job" whose name nobody can pronounce and, it appears from your column, the ability to sling a lot of meaningless verbiage.
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wayoutleft
my nano-bio coded in a period: .
02:36 PM on 01/30/2012
http://www.nowfashion.com/03-10-2011-emanuel-ungaro-ready-to-wear-spring-summer-2012-paris-show-1011.html

The aesthetic creed of a master artist.
'"we only fight for causes after which we model ourselves, for which we burn, because we identify with them" (René Char). We must acknowledge that fragility and anxiety feed on poetry. Thus there is glory at the height of appearance. It is style which introduces our moral position.'
For this type of sensibility, there probably is only perfection or failure. Aesthetics is more difficult than ethics to live by.
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fanofariana
Rooting for Obama
08:42 PM on 01/30/2012
His pieces are timeless! I am a major fan of his work. Tks for the link.