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Paprika

the familiar red spice, consists of the dried ground fruits of Capsicum annuum, the mild capsicum fruit, often called pimento. Although this and all the other Capsicum species originated in the New World, the particular varieties used to make paprika were developed in Europe, especially in Hungary. The first paprika peppers to reach Hungary are thought to have been introduced from the east by Bulgarians, who had them from Turkey. The earliest reference to them in a Hungarian dictionary, according to Lang (1971), was in 1604, when the name used was ‘Turkish pepper’. The name ‘paprika’, which is derived from the Latin piper (pepper) through Slavic diminutive forms (pepperke, piperka), did not come into currency until 1775.

Paprika has for long been an important ingredient in many Hungarian dishes, including what the Hungarians themselves call paprikás; see goulash. It has also acquired worldwide popularity as a mild spice whose bright red colour (for which the pigment capsanthin is largely responsible) enables it to enliven white or pale dishes.

Paprika peppers are now grown, to produce paprika, in a number of countries, including many in E. Europe but also Spain. Spanish paprika, known as pimentón, is made from round peppers about the size of a peach, of several varieties. It is a paler shade of red than Hungarian paprika, and differs slightly in flavour.

Although it exists in many varieties, some of which are very hot, paprika is normally mild and sweet and can be used more generously than most peppers. This has not always been so. It was only in 1859 that a process was invented which allowed for discarding the cores and seeds (which contain most of the pungent principle, capsaicin) thus reducing the pungency considerably. The commercial grades of paprika are given by Lang, best first, as exquisite delicate (külïnleges), delicate, noble sweet (édelnemes), semi-sweet (félédes), rose (rózsa), and hot (erïs). The two principal growing areas in Hungary are in the south of the country, one centred on the city of Szeged, the other on the neighbourhood of Kaloska, on the Danube.

Pimentón is a spice produced in Spain from the small round fruits of several varieties of C. annuum. It may reasonably be regarded as a Spanish version of paprika. It is almost sweet in taste and it is used both as a colouring agent and as a spice in itself. It is added to seafood, sausages, rice, and many other savoury dishes.

Contributors

Alan Davidson was a distinguished author and publisher, and one of the world's best-known writers on fish and fish cookery. In 1975 he retired early from the diplomatic service—after serving in, among other places, Washington, Egypt, Tunisia, and Laos, where he was British Ambassador—to pursue a fruitful second career as a food historian and food writer extraordinaire. Among his popular books are Seafood of South-East Asia, North Atlantic Seafood, and Mediterranean Seafood. In 2003, shortly before his death, he was awarded the Erasmus Prize for his contribution to European culture.

Reading

Lang, George (1971), The Cuisine of Hungary, New York: Bonanza.