(in cookery), a topic touched upon under alcohol, has been clearly and specifically treated by Anne Willan (1989), who introduces it thus:
Wine can mellow to a remarkable richness when it is simmered in sauces, braises or stews. To avoid a raw taste, it must always be thoroughly reduced during cooking, red wine by half and white wine even more. First, the alcohol evaporates, then the wine concentrates so the finished dish is rich and mellow. This evaporation may be an integral part of the cooking process, as in the long cooking of a casserole or the simmering of a brown sauce. At other times the wine is reduced on its own, as when red wine is used to deglaze pan juices for a steak.
The quality of the wine used will be reflected in the result. It would not, however, make sense to sacrifice rare or expensive wines in the cooking pan. One quality which will not survive cooking is the sparkle of champagne or similar wines, although a little of the sparkle may survive in uncooked dishes such as a champagne sorbet (see water ices).
The above refers to table wines. The role of fortified wines in cookery is different. They are typically added at the end of a cooking process, and the alcohol in them, which will not have been boiled off, remains potent. In fact, their use may be a case of ‘wine in cooked dishes’ rather than ‘wine in cookery’. A spoonful of sherry added to a soup just before it is served is not subjected to cooking, although it certainly has its effect on the soup. The Italian fortified wine Marsala is sometimes the best choice for deglazing pan juices. The Spanish Malaga and Portuguese Madeira are also particularly suited to certain dishes.
Wines are also used as an ingredient of a marinade. The effect of the wine is then produced before cooking; if any wine survives (with other elements of the marinade) on whatever has been marinated, the effect of the cooking on this is not of significance for the finished dish.
Alan Davidson was a distinguished author and publisher, and one of the world's best-known writers on fish and fish cookery. In 1975 he retired early from the diplomatic service—after serving in, among other places, Washington, Egypt, Tunisia, and Laos, where he was British Ambassador—to pursue a fruitful second career as a food historian and food writer extraordinaire. Among his popular books are Seafood of South-East Asia, North Atlantic Seafood, and Mediterranean Seafood. In 2003, shortly before his death, he was awarded the Erasmus Prize for his contribution to European culture.
Willan, Anne (1989), Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Cookery, London: Dorling Kindersley.
